Mavic 2 Pro Filter Connection

[Lon Denard]

That was the old version of @Skyreat filters...the new ones are easy to install and you can put the gimbal guard without any problem.

Yea, I have two sets of their filters. Neither of which were perfect. However, it seems that the bugs have been worked out and everything is golden now!

 

[CJ888]

I have some new and old SKYREATS. For me, the new ones were more difficult to put on and impossible to take off without the tool (or a crescent wrench). They do not align with the slots very well. I filed them down a bit so it's easier.

 

[W2EJ]

Does anyone know if DJIs own 4 filter set for the M2P, ($99 on Amazon) comes with a case of some kind to keep the filters in?

 

[ff22]

Does anyone know if DJIs own 4 filter set for the M2P, ($99 on Amazon) comes with a case of some kind to keep the filters in?

Well, the listing on the DJI site says

"In the Box
ND4 ND Filter × 1
ND8 ND Filter × 1
ND16 ND Filter × 1
ND32 ND Filter × 1"

It mentions nothing about a case unless the "box" is more than cardboard material?

 

[W2EJ]

Well, the listing on the DJI site says

"In the Box
ND4 ND Filter × 1
ND8 ND Filter × 1
ND16 ND Filter × 1
ND32 ND Filter × 1"

It mentions nothing about a case unless the "box" is more than cardboard material?

Yes, I read it. That’s why I asked the question, because the description doesn’t say. I thought if someone already has the set, they would know.

 

[brettbrandon]

I have the PolarPro Cinema Series filters (ND and ND/CPL) and can verify they fit well. They leave plenty of room inside the gimbal cover. I wish the oem removal tool worked on them but it dosen't. It works great on the stock lens cover.
I went with these because the reviewers were claiming no color cast. In the little I have played with the camera, I haven't noticed any. I am planning on doing some comparison testing for my Amazon review of them. ND stands for Neutral Density so I would expect no color casting. That's just one more thing I do not want to deal with in post. I can post my findings here if anyone is interested.

 

[zocalo]

That's just one more thing I do not want to deal with in post. I can post my findings here if anyone is interested.

Definitely interested in your findings as I still haven't decided exactly which densities of filters to get, and especially since PolarPro is one of the brands on the (very) short list.

 

[fozzzy]

Gimbal guard isn't an issue with these. They fit just fine and don't touch the guard. I did a few shots with the ND64/PL on today and they are nice. There is a slight shift to yellow that's easily corrected in post.

I would be a little concerned about any color alteration from using and ND filter to be honest. The idea is to expose correctly, without causing more work in post. The only filters I’ve tried so far are the upgraded Skyreat, they have been excellent so far and the fitting is perfect.

 

[brettbrandon]

Definitely interested in your findings as I still haven't decided exactly which densities of filters to get, and especially since PolarPro is one of the brands on the (very) short list.

Just ran a test. I'm quite impressed actually.
The ND filters by themselves warmed up the shot 50K to 100K, that's virtualy nothing. Tint went slightly magenta, again nowhere near enough to notice.
The ND/PL version actually was also 50K to 100K but in the cool direction. Had the same amount of tint as above.
I did not notice any degredation of sharpness with them as well.
If someone is looking for filters that don't change your color temperature, I can reccomend these but you may want to sit down when ordering, they are not cheap...
I would buy them again.

EDIT:
I just realized you are looking for densities as well. I haven't really tested that but here's a pic untouched from the raw file. This is with the ND8/PL filter, iso 100, F11, 1/200 sec. Late morning as far as light.
The cool thing about the M2P is the adjustable apeture. That really allows you to tweak brightness after the filter.

 

[brettbrandon]

OK I did some figuring and the pic posted above is over 1 stop underexposed.

Using this picture as a reference for light content , to get 1/60 sec for video, and the apeture wide open, you would need roughly a ND64 or 6 stop filter. If you are cool running in the 5-ish apeture, a ND 32 or 5 stop should get you to about where this pic is. I'm guessing snow covered content on a sunny day with the apeture wide open would need at least a 10 stop filter.
I'm brand new to video (as in with my new M2P), so please don't execute me if I am wrong.

 

[brettbrandon]

Both are out of the camera RAW files with lens correction only and saved as JPEG's to post here.

Have you found that the "lens correction" actually does anything?
When I apply it in Lightroom (it shows as Built-in), I see absolutely nothing change in the image. When I apply lens correction with my dslr lenses, you see the edges get brighter, the perspective changes some, ect. With the drone pics, I see nothing change between with and without.

 

[noosaguy]

Have you found that the "lens correction" actually does anything?
When I apply it in Lightroom (it shows as Built-in), I see absolutely nothing change in the image. When I apply lens correction with my dslr lenses, you see the edges get brighter, the pespective changes some, ect. With the drone pics, I see nothing change between with and without.

Now this is weird. Sometimes it comes up 'Built-In' and it must make corrections in camera. But in Lightroom CC, more often than not I have to actually select the DJI profile and choose the Mavic Pro camera setting which does show a change. I have no idea why sometimes it shows 'built-In' and other times not? Maybr one of the bright sparks (pun intended) might be able to answer that. Either way I check 'Enable Profile Correction' and 'remove Chromatic Aberration' buttons.

 

[brettbrandon]

I would not recommend using the Mavic Pro camera setting. It is distorting your photo. The way lens correction works in Lightroom is in two parts. The camera and the lens. The profiles are created to fix distortions and such in the different cameras and lens's. The camera and lens on the Mavic Pro are completely different then the Mavic 2 Pro. That means you are applying distortion corrections meant for the mavic Pro that don't line up with what you are using. It looks to me like Hassleblad is applying the corrections to the raw and jpeg files before saving them in the camera.
As far as Chromatic Abberations, that's one of the things that really impresses me about this camera, there are virtually none present. My Canon has them all the time. Maybe Hassleblad is removing those before saving the file as well?
As far as showing Built-in or not, are you veiwing all raw files. Jpg's will not show a Lens Correction.

 

[noosaguy]

I would not recommend using the Mavic Pro camera setting. It is distorting your photo. The way lens correction works in Lightroom is in two parts. The camera and the lens. The profiles are created to fix distortions and such in the different cameras and lens's. The camera and lens on the Mavic Pro are completely different then the Mavic 2 Pro. That means you are applying distortion corrections meant for the mavic Pro that don't line up with what you are using. It looks to me like Hassleblad is applying the corrections to the raw and jpeg files before saving them in the camera.
As far as Chromatic Abberations, that's one of the things that really impresses me about this camera, there are virtually none present. My Canon has them all the time. Maybe Hassleblad is removing those before saving the file as well?
As far as showing Built-in or not, are you veiwing all raw files. Jpg's will not show a Lens Correction.

I agree and thanks for your comment. Perhaps the Chromatic Aberration correction is done as part of the 'Built-In' correction, makes sense.
Yes, the 'built in' default in Lightroom may well be due to JPEG setting. However I rarely (if ever) shoot in JPEG so that may (or may not) be the answer.
The other thing is, when i've used the DJI Mavic Pro setting in Photoshop I've not noticed any unsightly distortion. Perhaps that has something to do with the subject matter. I rarely have shot anything too architectural to see a problem. To my eyes it appears to be mainly a correction to barrel distortion.

 

[noosaguy]

The idea is to expose correctly, without causing more work in post.

The other thing Fozzy, is that I can't remember the last time I selected an image of mine from any source that didn't require editing in one way or another. I guess what it depends on what finished quality standard you're prepared to accept.
I own high end Canon DSLR equipment but every image that comes off them needs work.

 

[brettbrandon]

I took a picture of a speaker grill with a nice square grid and all lines come out perfectly straight all the way through the cormers with no correction. I believe Lens Correction and Chromatic Abboration are being corrected before the camera save the file to disk.
I tried using the Mavic Pro lens correction and it flared out the corners.... Not good.
So with the M2P, no lens correction is needed.

Noosaguy, I took a look at the two photos you posted and the color temperature itself is rather close. The tint seems to be out alot farther then the color temp is.

 

[brettbrandon]

Unless I'm missing something here, i find it interesting that in Lightroom, the colour temp and tint numbers are identical in both photos (with and without filter) on the RAW images but there is an obvious shift in viewing on screen.

Unless you change them, the color and tint values are the values that were set in the camera when the picture was taken.
In Lightroom above and to the right of the color and tint sliders, you should see "As Shot". Click on that and choose auto. That should get them close to correct white ballance and then the values should be different.

 

[zocalo]

Many thanks for the review. As you say, colour tinting is pretty minimal to the point it could be ignored, and since I generally do tweak it in post anyway there's no real worries there. I've certainly seen a *LOT* worse from some brands of cheap resin filters out there.

Re. the densities; that's more getting a grasp on light levels vs. how stable the drone so I can keep the aperture in the f/2.8-f/5.6 sweet spot - just needs some testing time, but it's been pretty windy here of late which has curtailed my flights a bit. I can use ISO as well, of course, so I'm leaning towards a 2/4/6 stop (ND4/16/64) set of NDs and CPLs at present, although even with my love of arctic sun and ice I doubt the 6-stop will see much use except for some milky water shots maybe... Better to have and not need, than to need and not have though! I might also get a couple of ND grads for landscape stills too as I can always centre the horizon and crop to ~16:9 to get a more pleasing composition.

 

[brettbrandon]

I might also get a couple of ND grads for landscape stills too as I can always centre the horizon and crop to ~16:9 to get a more pleasing composition.

Are you aware that you can set the camera to shoot at either 16:9 or 3:2.

 

[zocalo]

Are you aware that you can set the camera to shoot at either 16:9 or 3:2.

Yes, but with a GND on a drone you're usually going to need to put the horizon dead centre in the frame to have transition point to clear on the filter in the right place (assuming 50% of the filter is clear as normal for SLR GNDs), then cropping off a strip of the sky in post can give a more pleasing composition ratio between land and sky. Taking a 16:9 in-drone is going to mean that the horizon is still in the middle of the frame and make cropping for composition trickier.