Mavic 3 Telephoto for closeups

[stevearends]

Being able to get consistent high quality in focus detailed shots is primarily why I bought a Mavic 3 after I had already bought an Air2S.

I own a construction company and we frequently need to inspect a roof for damage. Often there is no substitute for getting on the roof and looking for damage with the naked eye and an iPhone. But, many times it is near impossible getting to certain areas of a building, or at least, there is increased danger. With the Air2S I tried several things to get detailed close ups of roof damage and it was hard. I tried getting very close - maybe 4 - 6 feet above the roof. This worked well, but only "sometimes" - if it was windy it seemed gusts would buffet the drone around and my shots would be blurry. I also tried 5k videos and went over the roof slowly and maybe 15 - 20' above the roof. Then, I would go back and look at the videos on my computer - the results were "pretty good" and sometimes quite good.

Enter Mavic 3 just this past week. I have been trying both techniques again - close still shots and 4k videos using the telephoto lens. With the 7x zoom I am DEFINITELY getting more consistent and more highly detailed close ups of roof damage. With the Air2S it seems I "occasionally" had pretty decent closeups - with the Mavic 3 telephoto the closeups are much more consistent high quality and in pristine focus.

Question - does anyone have tips on settings for closeup telephoto work? This past week I used ND filter 4 and it seemed to work better than the 1st time out with no ND filter in full sun - those videos were very light in color and I guess I was over-eposing my shots in full sun.

 

[MS Coast]

Being able to get consistent high quality in focus detailed shots is primarily why I bought a Mavic 3 after I had already bough an Air2S.

I own a construction company and we frequently need to inspect a roof for damage. Often there is no substitute for getting on the roof and lookig for dage wiuth the naked eye and an iPhone. With the Air2S I tried several things to get detailed close ups of roof damage and it was hard. I tried getting very close - maybe 4 - 6 feet above the roof. This worked well, sometimes - if it was windy it seemed gusts would buffet the drone around and my shots would be blurry. I also tried 5k videos and went over the roof slowly and maybe 15 - 20' above the roof. Then, I would go back and look at the videos on my computer - the results were "pretty good".

Enter Mavic 3 just this past week. I have been trying both techniques - close still shots and 4k videos using the telephoto lens. With the 7x zoom I am definitely getting more consistent and highly detailed close ups of roof damage. Seems I "occasionally" had pretty decent closeups - with the Mavic 3 the closeups are consistent high quality and in pristine focus.

Question - does anyone have tips on settings for closeup telephoto work? This past week I used ND filter 4 and it worked quite a bit better than the 1st time out with no ND filter in full sun - those videos were very light in color and I guess I was overeposing my shots in full sun.

Rather than use an ND4 filter, just increase the shutter speed two stops. You'll have the same effect on exposure and the higher shutter speed will reduce the effect of the drone's movement on sharpness. (Two stops = cutting the shutter speed in half twice. If you start at 1/500, one stop is 1/1000 and two stops is 1/2000.) Be sure to focus on the specific subject you're shooting.

ND filters are for making the image less sharp, blurring any movement in the scene. That's a desirable thing if you're shooting moving water, but not so good if you're looking at details in the subject.

 

[Meta4]

The main lens of the Mavic 3 and other DJI drones is a wideangle lens - it makes things look further away, so you have to get close (very close) to see good detail.
This is with the main lens and I had to get too close for comfort to get this result:

But with the tele lens, it's easy to get good and better detail from back at a safe and much more comfortable distance

Question - does anyone have tips on settings for closeup telephoto work?

Settings are simple.
Your aperture is fixed so you can't change that.
Keep ISO low )100) unless you are in low-light situations.
Let the camera's metering select an appropriate shutter speed for good exposure.
I usually find that setting the exposure compensation to -0.3 or -0.7 gets a better result that leaving it on EV 0.

Here's what that looks like in the app.

This past week I used ND filter 4 and it worked quite a bit better than the 1st time out with no ND filter in full sun - those videos were very light in color and I guess I was overeposing my shots in full sun.

Unless you have a particular need to force a slower shutter speed, you shouldn't be using ND filters to adjust exposure for stills

And for video, you won't be needing the much hyped creative motion blur that some think is important.
Again leave the ND filters off and let the camera adjust the shutter speed for proper exposure..

 

[stevearends]

The main lens of the Mavic 3 and other DJI drones is a wideangle lens - it makes things look further away, so you have to get close (very close) to see good detail.
This is with the main lens and I had to get too close for comfort to get this result:

But with the tele lens, it's easy to get good and better detail from back at a safe and much more comfortable distance

Settings are simple.
Your aperture is fixed so you can't change that.
Keep ISO low )100) unless you are in low-light situations.
Let the camera's metering select an appropriate shutter speed for good exposure.
I usually find that setting the exposure compensation to -0.3 or -0.7 gets a better result that leaving it on EV 0.

Here's what that looks like in the app.

Unless you have a particular need to force a slower shutter speed, you shouldn't be using ND filters to adjust exposure for stills

And for video, you won't be needing the much hyped creative motion blur that some think is important.
Again leave the ND filters off and let the camera adjust the shutter speed for proper exposure..

In the above, what does Shutter Speed of 2" mean?

 

[Meta4]

In the above, what does Shutter Speed of 2" mean?

It means nothing.
The important thing is that you select Auto for shutter speed.
That highlights Auto in yellow and the camera selects the best shutter speed for the scene.
In my example the drone was in the dark so it selected the slowest speed that the tele camera has.
Out in daylight it will select something much more useful.

 

[stevearends]

It means nothing.
The important thing is that you select Auto for shutter speed.
That highlights Auto in yellow and the camera selects the best shutter speed for the scene.
In my example the drone was in the dark so it selected the slowest speed that the tele camera has.
Out in daylight it will select something much more useful.

Meta4, your example of the close up of the lights is EXACTLY what I need to do when photographing different elements of a building, particularly often I am looking at roof damage that is an inch or two in area.

I apologize if I am slow to understand your meaning - I am new to working with cameras and i am frustrated with how slow I am to pick things up. Is this correct?

1) Use manual mode for ISO - set it low unless in low light - probably 100
2) Use AUTO for shutter speed
3) Use manual for EV - approximately -.3 to -.7

What do you think about MS Coast's suggestion to increase the shutter speed? Would this only be necessary if I was flying rather close to a building structure (rooftop or whatever) in high winds? I have been in situations in high winds where the M3 is moving around so much in the wind that I must work pretty hard to get it over a certain spot.

 

[Meta4]

Is this correct?

1) Use manual mode for ISO - set it low unless in low light - probably 100
2) Use AUTO for shutter speed
3) Use manual for EV - approximately -.3 to -.7

Yes ... but for 3 ... that's just what I find with my camera.
Yours might be the same, or maybe not.
Do a little testing and if you feel the camera is consistently giving images that are a little overexposed, then set the exposure compensation to -0.3 or -0.7.

What do you think about MS Coast's suggestion to increase the shutter speed? Would this only be necessary if I was flying rather close to a building structure (rooftop or whatever) in high winds? I have been in situations in high winds where the M3 is moving around so much in the wind that I must work pretty hard to get it over a certain spot.

He was saying the same as I did.
Leave the ND filter off because it cuts 75% of the light, which forces a slower shutter speed to let in enough light for correct exposure.

As for wind, a faster shutter speed is good, but the gimbal will probably do all you need to keep the image steady.

 

[Vic Moss]

As others have said, leave the ND off. It's not needed for what you're doing, even for the video. You should also put it on autofocus. There is some good advice above as well.

I've done a lot of testing with the 7X Tele, and it is much better than it was at first. It's sharper and more controllable now.

Also, I see you're in Colorado. If you're in the Metro Denver area, join our local club. We meet every month and fly and talk about drones. We also try and have some sort of informational aspect to it as well. It's run by myself and another FAA Drone Pro.

Denver Drone Pilots Social Hour | Facebook

www.facebook.com

 

[jephoto]

Meta4 (and anyone) how are you getting good color from the tele lens? I'm posting similar questions in other places as well. Trying to get good color & contrast from the 7x so when side by side (stills) or adjacent video clips they won't seem so far different.

And I am just getting into video processing - seems a bit difficult to get the two cameras to match (or be close) although I've seen excellent samples online of people who do it. So I know its possible....

 

[Filmarik]

Meta4 (and anyone) how are you getting good color from the tele lens? I'm posting similar questions in other places as well. Trying to get good color & contrast from the 7x so when side by side (stills) or adjacent video clips they won't seem so far different.

And I am just getting into video processing - seems a bit difficult to get the two cameras to match (or be close) although I've seen excellent samples online of people who do it. So I know its possible....

It can be done, the files just need to be treated with a bit different settings. Here are two examples, while not perfect the match is pretty close, to my eye at least.

 

[Meta4]

Meta4 (and anyone) how are you getting good color from the tele lens? I'm posting similar questions in other places as well. Trying to get good color & contrast from the 7x so when side by side (stills) or adjacent video clips they won't seem so far different.

I mostly shoot stills and haven't had a problem as long as the scene is well lit.
The results from the tele camera sensor don't seem to be as good when shooting in poor light or against the light.

 

[jephoto]

I mostly shoot stills and haven't had a problem as long as the scene is well lit.
The results from the tele camera sensor don't seem to be as good when shooting in poor light or against the light.

That’s for sure. My next time out I intend to do separate flights for shots I want to use the telephoto for , and Shots with the main camera so I can pull the ND filter off for the telephoto shots. I think that’s the only way I’m gonna get decent quality.

 

[Meta4]

That’s for sure. My next time out I intend to do separate flights for shots I want to use the telephoto for , and Shots with the main camera so I can pull the ND filter off for the telephoto shots. I think that’s the only way I’m gonna get decent quality.

Shooting stills with an ND filter is never a good idea with any camera, unless there's a particular reason to want to force a slower shutter speed.
It's not doing anything to help you.

 

[jephoto]

The only reason I have the ND filters on is that usually on a shoot I’m switching back-and-forth between doing stills and video clips.

Rather than waste a move if I am at one corner of a property doing stills, I can do a video getting to the other end of the property. Then shoot more stills and then cross to another position doing video. I am most efficient that way with my battery, but I can see planning where I want to do the telephoto shots and do a separate flight just for that.

 

[Filmarik]

The only reason I have the ND filters on is that usually on a shoot I’m switching back-and-forth between doing stills and video clips.

Rather than waste a move if I am at one corner of a property doing stills, I can do a video getting to the other end of the property. Then shoot more stills and then cross to another position doing video. I am most efficient that way with my battery, but I can see planning where I want to do the telephoto shots and do a separate flight just for that.

Are you aware that there are split ND filters for M3? They have darker one for the main WA camera and lighter one for the tele. In the set there is even one with only UV for tele and ND8 for the WA main. Certainly not ideal for shooting video with the main camera under bright daylight conditions when you might need ND16 or 32 but you can always increase aperture to get a reasonably exposed footage even with ND8.

 

[jephoto]

Are you aware that there are split ND filters for M3? They have darker one for the main WA camera and lighter one for the tele. In the set there is even one with only UV for tele and ND8 for the WA main. Not ideal for the main camera when there is a very bright light but you can always stop down aperture when shooting video on the main camera to get at least a reasonably exposed footage.

I’ve only had the M3 about a month. Still figuring things out. And what I should or shouldn’t spend money on. But that ND8/UV could be real useful. Thx

 

[Filmarik]

I’ve only had the M3 about a month. Still figuring things out. And what I should or shouldn’t spend money on. But that ND8/UV could be real useful. Thx

 

[jephoto]

Are you aware that there are split ND filters for M3? They have darker one for the main WA camera and lighter one for the tele. In the set there is even one with only UV for tele and ND8 for the WA main. Certainly not ideal for shooting video with the main camera under bright daylight conditions when you might need ND16 or 32 but you can always increase aperture to get a reasonably exposed footage even with ND8.

Filmarik- you have a link for these?

Nevermind. Found some. Not cheap , but may be the ticket…

https://www.amazon.com/Freewell-Split-ND-Filter-Compatible-Mavic-Cine/dp/B0B743JCPT/ref=asc_df_B0B743JCPT?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588513664&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589121501515&psc=1#immersive-view_1669899001097

 

[Filmarik]

Filmarik- you have a link for these?

Nevermind. Found some. Not cheap , but may be the ticket…

https://www.amazon.com/Freewell-Split-ND-Filter-Compatible-Mavic-Cine/dp/B0B743JCPT/ref=asc_df_B0B743JCPT?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588513664&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589121501515&psc=1#immersive-view_1669899001097

Yes, those the ones I was talking about. They come in a ridiculously large plastic box but can be put into the slim and elegant DJI filter box. I do not think I'll be using the DJI filters anymore anyway. The optical quality and color neutrality seems pretty good. I am surprised DJI did not think about this when they were designing their filters for M3. It is such an obvious idea and an absolute no brainer since these two cameras have different size sensors and capture different amount of light .

 

[jephoto]

They’ll probably bring those out at a later date and charge us more money for them…