It sounds like the M2 service ceiling specification is very conservative, which is not surprising since many of them are.
Mavic Pro 2 RAW photo files
- Thread starter CiaranMcHugh
- Start date
No doubt, as are operating temperatures etc.
Ultimately, if unlocked it can climb 6000ft starting at 22,000 even if its for a minute or so max then theres more than enough performance at normal altitudes for consumers.
Certainly from my experience at 14,000 there was no obvious difference in performance at all that i could see
Ultimately, if unlocked it can climb 6000ft starting at 22,000 even if its for a minute or so max then theres more than enough performance at normal altitudes for consumers.
Certainly from my experience at 14,000 there was no obvious difference in performance at all that i could see
Having a serious landscape aerial photography in mind M2P will be as low as I would go image quality wise. M2P sensor size can't compete with any decent DSLR these days (most notably in noise department), but with some trickery one can achieve stunningly resolute panoramic stitches up to 180MP. Some examples can be seen here Landscapes. That said, I wouldn't expect much with night photography of printable quality. For such one will need a heavy lifter and a suitable camera ...
Yea I'm not expecting to do nightscaper work with it (aside from maybe foreground work. I was wondering how the different cameras worked for stills. I’ve got mini 2 and air 2 raw files to play with but nothing from the pro yet. I’m figuring regardless of which I end up with I’ll end up stacking them for super resolution. Has anyone tried that with any of the current lineup yet?
I'm afraid you're confusing "stacking" with "stitching". Stacking will not improve image resolution, while stitching will. I'm doing just that producing meters wide wall printouts at 300dpi resolution from up to 160MP stitches, using 3x3 panoramic sequences shot by M2P...
I thought so too, but checked.
Apparently it is a thing ...
Do You Want More Resolution? Use Super Resolution
Hasselblad was one of the first that used super resolution techniques. Today it can be found in many cameras, producing resolutions that are up to four times higher than the pixel count of the sensor. You can also do this with your camera. This is how it works. The Olympus OM-D E-M5 II used the...
fstoppers.com
Well, this method may deliver some considerable results (I've never tried this, must confess), but not even close to what panoramic stitch is capable of. It is explained in this article as well ...I thought so too, but checked.
Apparently it is a thing ...
Do You Want More Resolution? Use Super Resolution
Hasselblad was one of the first that used super resolution techniques. Today it can be found in many cameras, producing resolutions that are up to four times higher than the pixel count of the sensor. You can also do this with your camera. This is how it works. The Olympus OM-D E-M5 II used the...
Definitely. It's more about improving the quality of the frame you have as opposed to getting a wider field of view. From past experience I will also say there are diminishing returns as you stack more. Stacking (super resolution) buys you more detail in your frame, It will also drastically improve sensor noise. Just for fun I also ran some of the sample RAWs I got my hands on through Topaz Labs software and was pleasently surprised with the results. It's not mind boggling but it is a definite improvement.
Not really sure stacking will do a lot on the M2.
Although its pretty good the tiniest bit of movement of a camera can eliminate any benefits of stacking.
As can movement such as cars, foliage, drone itself in a gust etc.
I have however done stitching to make manual multi hundred megapixel bracketed panoramas. Those are excellent quality.
Noise wise, 100 and 200 iso properly exposed are good. No issues at all.
Its only an issue once you get to 400 (need to start using NR software). Above that is pretty bad.
I never do night shots but daytime ive never found noise an issue at all.
Although its pretty good the tiniest bit of movement of a camera can eliminate any benefits of stacking.
As can movement such as cars, foliage, drone itself in a gust etc.
I have however done stitching to make manual multi hundred megapixel bracketed panoramas. Those are excellent quality.
Noise wise, 100 and 200 iso properly exposed are good. No issues at all.
Its only an issue once you get to 400 (need to start using NR software). Above that is pretty bad.
I never do night shots but daytime ive never found noise an issue at all.
Shooting a landscape with long lens rarely makes any sense, while the same lens will deliver stunningly resolute wide angle image when the panoramic sequence is stitched. I just can't see any landscape objects frozen still in time of shooting to allow for non blurred details when stacked. We are talking about aerial imagery after all ...
So I'm sure there is a line between not enough movement and too much movement and I don't know where that point is but this is from the article you linked above:
"There is one thing you have to keep in mind; don’t use a tripod. You need to shoot by hand because the technique is based on the shift between the series of images."
Theres quite a lot of movement on a per pixel level even in calm conditions.
And thats without things moving in the frame themselves such as foliage, cars or anything like that.
And thats without things moving in the frame themselves such as foliage, cars or anything like that.
Jeff A
Well Worn Member
Afternoon / morning / evening. I am a complete novice in all things drone related. I have just purchased a DJI Mavic 2 Pro. I bravely took it for my 1st flight he other day. Nervous! Anyhow I loved the 3 minute video. Very jerky but... Picture however was awful. Had it set for RAW only (I will change to both - like my camera). How does one get a quality picture? Of anything? Mine was pixelated and white balance was way off. It then took about 3 hours to upload (via cable) to the PC - 1 picture (RAW) X1 49 sec & X1 3.49 min video. Like I said I am a novice - make it simple ! Thanks in advance.
Your main picture and video storage media is SD card. Pull the card off Mavic, insert into a dedicated SD card reader and plug it into PC. It should appear there as external volume with a folder containing still images (JPEG, DNG, or both) and/or video files (MOV or MP4). Transfer these to a dedicated folder on your computer drive, preferably other than system drive. Note: preview images stored in your device are of lesser quality.
Forget downloading with a cable, it's too slow and inconvenient.
Pop the SD card and put that in a $3 USB adapter and put that in your computer.
If you are new to photography, forget about raw (dng) files, and ignore the people that suggest that you must use them to get good pictures..
Dng files require specialised software and further processing before they look good.
Just set the camera to shoot jpg files and you can experiment with dng files at a later time (if you feel the need to).
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