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Mavic Pro Battery Mod


Do you have one that he recently built? Is it reliable or just gunna be a grenade? Iv been talking with him on fb and thinking about getting his $350 +s&h battery but havnt bc i wanna know if its too good to be true. He's like the only company selling big *** mp2 batteries.lol
 
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yes. I love it.
If you're worried, he can scale back the battery to a lighter version. I love mine. Even when in sport mode flying around like crazy, I'm getting 40 mins. Just talk to him about it.
 
Do you have one that he recently built? Is it reliable or just gunna be a grenade? Iv been talking with him on fb and thinking about getting his $350 +s&h battery but havnt bc i wanna know if its too good to be true. He's like the only company selling big *** mp2 batteries.lol

loads of people on the DJI modding Facebook page have bought them and been very happy, me included
 
Filippo, I have one of those batteries as well, would you share the overcharge instructions or procedure for the 11,740 3s2p mp1 battery, thanks.

here are the instructions from Vincent
F5537463-72C6-4F70-8396-24D9925BFA7B.png2C9F301E-46BF-447A-B114-85430258EFDA.png
 
Overcharge will seriously degrade the life of your packs significantly, so I would advise only to try this once or twice and quickly use after charging....

Otherwise looking good!
 
Mavic Pro Latest Battery Mod

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Mavic Pro Latest Battery Mod

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Did you weigh the battery? How do you find the motor temperatures after a flight with these? Are the hot to point of scalding?
 
i can tell you specs next flight....i did touch motors and they where hot, do did not burn my hands, little warmer than normal, the battery was cool, the weight i will check later
 
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Hi
Just my 50 cents on this mod. Higher air resistance. Extra stress on components due to extra weight. More down push from propeller wash. Higher EMF fields through the craft (DANGER of compass error). Reduced agility. Reduced "echo" speed. I meant the speed at which you can travel without stressing the batteries. Extra noise.
So I named many minuses against one plus, some extra flying time.
If I were to insist with this mod, I would first make sure my cables to motors are twisted and I will use extra copper tape (NOT ALUMINIUM) as EMF screening and definitely I would use the low noise propellers. (they spin slower for the same output).
Unfortunately on the Mavic, you can't throw overboard to much. "OcuSync" 2 extra range comes mostly, if not totally, from higher currents feed to transmitters and better cooling compared to Phantom 3. There is a fan kicking in sometimes even in the remote I think. All the metal plate underneath (20 grams if I remember well) is a heat sink so please don't think of getting rid of that one!. The only safe weight reduction program is the wifi card, which nobody uses, about 10 grams. As well you can get rid of 30 grams approx by dumping the battery shell and using a cable tie or rubber band to secure the battery in place but this is not much.
I have had 2 Mavic pro's lost "in action" due to battery mods resulting in strange behaviours as exit Litchi mission and hovering in place(not ATTI flyaway), and auto-landings with no apparent reason. It was my own stupidity to insist until only the remotes were left ...Both were at about 960 grams using a stock second battery with no electronics backpack mode.
So I went back to good old P3 because there is a lot of fat you can trim.
I have for over 2 years a double stock battery P3 weighing in at (after the last extreme slim down) "only" 1314 grams. That's 30 grams over a stock Pro. 43 minutes hovering to 15 percent battery with stock propellers (22-22 degrees Celsius), 300 meters above sea level), over 1000km flight distance so far with no issues, and the same flight characteristics as a stock one. The main "design" feature is that the bottom part of the shell is made up of the second battery.
I don't say what you do is wrong and what I do is right, I just wanted to share my experience for others which consider battery mods.
 
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Hi
Just my 50 cents on this mod. Higher air resistance. Extra stress on components due to extra weight. More down push from propeller wash. Higher EMF fields through the craft (DANGER of compass error). Reduced agility. Reduced "echo" speed. I meant the speed at which you can travel without stressing the batteries. Extra noise.
So I named many minuses against one plus, some extra flying time.
If I were to insist with this mod, I would first make sure my cables to motors are twisted and I will use extra copper tape (NOT ALUMINIUM) as EMF screening and definitely I would use the low noise propellers. (they spin slower for the same output).
Unfortunately on the Mavic, you can't throw overboard to much. "OcuSync" 2 extra range comes mostly, if not totally, from higher currents feed to transmitters and better cooling compared to Phantom 3. There is a fan kicking in sometimes even in the remote I think. All the metal plate underneath (20 grams if I remember well) is a heat sink so please don't think of getting rid of that one!. The only safe weight reduction program is the wifi card, which nobody uses, about 10 grams. As well you can get rid of 30 grams approx by dumping the battery shell and using a cable tie or rubber band to secure the battery in place but this is not much.
I have had 2 Mavic pro's lost "in action" due to battery mods resulting in strange behaviours as exit Litchi mission and hovering in place(not ATTI flyaway), and auto-landings with no apparent reason. It was my own stupidity to insist until only the remotes were left ...Both were at about 960 grams using a stock second battery with no electronics backpack mode.
So I went back to good old P3 because there is a lot of fat you can trim.
I have for over 2 years a double stock battery P3 weighing in at (after the last extreme slim down) "only" 1314 grams. That's 30 grams over a stock Pro. 43 minutes hovering to 15 percent battery with stock propellers (22-22 degrees Celsius), 300 meters above sea level), over 1000km flight distance so far with no issues, and the same flight characteristics as a stock one. The main "design" feature is that the bottom part of the shell is made up of the second battery.
I don't say what you do is wrong and what I do is right, I just wanted to share my experience for others which consider battery mods.
Ill tell you my favorite before all the comp BULL my phantom 1 was great.....add all the battery you wanted......it sits on a shelf, but i have many good time trials on it ..
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fly till your fingers hurt
 
Hi
Just my 50 cents on this mod. Higher air resistance. Extra stress on components due to extra weight. More down push from propeller wash. Higher EMF fields through the craft (DANGER of compass error). Reduced agility. Reduced "echo" speed. I meant the speed at which you can travel without stressing the batteries. Extra noise.
So I named many minuses against one plus, some extra flying time.
If I were to insist with this mod, I would first make sure my cables to motors are twisted and I will use extra copper tape (NOT ALUMINIUM) as EMF screening and definitely I would use the low noise propellers. (they spin slower for the same output).
Unfortunately on the Mavic, you can't throw overboard to much. "OcuSync" 2 extra range comes mostly, if not totally, from higher currents feed to transmitters and better cooling compared to Phantom 3. There is a fan kicking in sometimes even in the remote I think. All the metal plate underneath (20 grams if I remember well) is a heat sink so please don't think of getting rid of that one!. The only safe weight reduction program is the wifi card, which nobody uses, about 10 grams. As well you can get rid of 30 grams approx by dumping the battery shell and using a cable tie or rubber band to secure the battery in place but this is not much.
I have had 2 Mavic pro's lost "in action" due to battery mods resulting in strange behaviours as exit Litchi mission and hovering in place(not ATTI flyaway), and auto-landings with no apparent reason. It was my own stupidity to insist until only the remotes were left ...Both were at about 960 grams using a stock second battery with no electronics backpack mode.
So I went back to good old P3 because there is a lot of fat you can trim.
I have for over 2 years a double stock battery P3 weighing in at (after the last extreme slim down) "only" 1314 grams. That's 30 grams over a stock Pro. 43 minutes hovering to 15 percent battery with stock propellers (22-22 degrees Celsius), 300 meters above sea level), over 1000km flight distance so far with no issues, and the same flight characteristics as a stock one. The main "design" feature is that the bottom part of the shell is made up of the second battery.
I don't say what you do is wrong and what I do is right, I just wanted to share my experience for others which consider battery mods.
I have a 9000 MAH battery coming for the MP1 soon almost 2/3rds lighter in the weight, and built with FIMA drone batteries LIHV supposed to get 45 minutes, the problem now is transmitter batteries only last 2 batteries the charge.....
 
Hi
Just my 50 cents on this mod. Higher air resistance. Extra stress on components due to extra weight. More down push from propeller wash. Higher EMF fields through the craft (DANGER of compass error). Reduced agility. Reduced "echo" speed. I meant the speed at which you can travel without stressing the batteries. Extra noise.
So I named many minuses against one plus, some extra flying time.
If I were to insist with this mod, I would first make sure my cables to motors are twisted and I will use extra copper tape (NOT ALUMINIUM) as EMF screening and definitely I would use the low noise propellers. (they spin slower for the same output).
Unfortunately on the Mavic, you can't throw overboard to much. "OcuSync" 2 extra range comes mostly, if not totally, from higher currents feed to transmitters and better cooling compared to Phantom 3. There is a fan kicking in sometimes even in the remote I think. All the metal plate underneath (20 grams if I remember well) is a heat sink so please don't think of getting rid of that one!. The only safe weight reduction program is the wifi card, which nobody uses, about 10 grams. As well you can get rid of 30 grams approx by dumping the battery shell and using a cable tie or rubber band to secure the battery in place but this is not much.
I have had 2 Mavic pro's lost "in action" due to battery mods resulting in strange behaviours as exit Litchi mission and hovering in place(not ATTI flyaway), and auto-landings with no apparent reason. It was my own stupidity to insist until only the remotes were left ...Both were at about 960 grams using a stock second battery with no electronics backpack mode.
So I went back to good old P3 because there is a lot of fat you can trim.
I have for over 2 years a double stock battery P3 weighing in at (after the last extreme slim down) "only" 1314 grams. That's 30 grams over a stock Pro. 43 minutes hovering to 15 percent battery with stock propellers (22-22 degrees Celsius), 300 meters above sea level), over 1000km flight distance so far with no issues, and the same flight characteristics as a stock one. The main "design" feature is that the bottom part of the shell is made up of the second battery.
I don't say what you do is wrong and what I do is right, I just wanted to share my experience for others which consider battery mods.


Nice reply. Well written and thought out. It's great to read a reply from an articulate sUAS enthusiast. In my experience, the general attitude of the public is we "drone" flyers are a group of voyeurs intent on spying about the neighbor taking photos and video of their most private lives. In fact, where I reside, the local government has placed restrictions on where and how drones may be operated contrary to the FAA pronouncement no state authority may due so.
 
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I just started to mod n play around with the mavics but looks like great work! Thx for the details n pic. One question tho, how come go though all that instead of use one of these things I see all over the net? Do these things do something weird like charge the other battery instead of power the drone or something like that? Im curious what you guys would think.
 

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I just started to mod n play around with the mavics but looks like great work! Thx for the details n pic. One question tho, how come go though all that instead of use one of these things I see all over the net? Do these things do something weird like charge the other battery instead of power the drone or something like that? Im curious what you guys would think.

they are a waste of money, I used one with a couple of 3500 batteries and got 5 minutes of extra flight time.

I now have one of these

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And this is the flight test

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Yea the homie vincentng put me on to those but im curious about the other method because I was thinking of connecting another factory battery instead of those smaller rc car of batteries.
 
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they are a waste of money, I used one with a couple of 3500 batteries and got 5 minutes of extra flight time.

I now have one of these

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And this is the flight test

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Your camera problem is a ribbon going bad. Just FYI. It's a $15 dollar part but takes a bit of skill to replace. Youtube has lots of howtos mate.
 

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