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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

That's fair enough, but you will be putting extra load on the motors and esc's with the extra heat.

How have you connected up the extra batteries?
I can't see how they can charge the mavic pack, surely if connected up in parallel with mavic pack you are juust creating one big 3s battery?
One of the entries on this post said the Mavics have an internal smaller battery that gets charged by the large smart battery. It's the small internal battery that distributes the power to the electronics, the post says. SO, I guess the heat your talking about will come from the extra weight? Incidentally, I routinely fly at night with 2x 2000 lumen spot lights facing the ground (they are high powered led torch lights, not made for a drone. They each have a single somewhat heavy 5000-mah battery). Looks like a police chopper without the noise. Anyway, I did notice, the battery, and motors are a little hotter when I land, but I have never had issues except a loss of about 5-6 minutes of flight time. You can hear the stress on the props, due to the increased rotor speed needed to lift the weight, but the flight dynamics remain stable. I still get decent flight times and stability, minus the 5-6 minutes. It's nice to see the ground when flying at night. It does tend to piss some of my neighbors off when I pass over their homes. C'est la vie.
Without my spot lights and a 5-7 minute mod boost on flight time, there is some potential. I Usually fly from a 2nd floor balcony and or a roof purch 3 stories high on my roof line for VLOS above trees and stuff. SO, I usually fly kind of far away to get descent shots. I'm lucky to live in florida, just 6 miles from the coast. Their is a bird preserve and many wooded areas with gators around my home. Lot's to look at, a little extra flight time could help me out quite a bit. By the way, It looks like the extra flight batteries take away 5-7 minutes of flight, but give an extra 15 minutes total. This turns out to be an extra 7 minutes of flight, i guess. You are right, I don't know what the long term effects would be on the drone, putting it under the stress of such a load, at longer flight intervals. The batteries might get hot and swell.=, especially on hot days. I would never fly the drone with those extra flight batteries if the outdoor operating temps got near the 40c operating temp limits of the drone. High outdoor temps and flying with extra weight is a bad idea. I wonder when they will be releasing the new tiny (uav sized) Hydrogen fuel cell Polymer batteries. I hear they can hold a lot more power at a much lighter weight. This will be a game changer for drones.. Electric cars are using hydrogen batteries or a version of hydrogen fuel cell ( a larger version of course). Hydrogen based electrical power is very efficient. Quoted below, is a company called AMS COMPOSITE CYLINDERS. They make UAV sized hydrogen batteries. They are likely too expensive for release to the general consumer public. THEY CAN FLY FOR HOURS ! NOT JUST MINUTES!.

"At AMS Composite Cylinders, we have already been heavily involved in several Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) projects. Using hydrogen fuel cells and our ultra-lightweight cylinders, the drone manufacturers have been able to deliver UAVs with flight times of several hours."
 
One of the entries on this post said the Mavics have an internal smaller battery that gets charged by the large smart battery. It's the small internal battery that distributes the power to the electronics, the post says. SO, I guess the heat your talking about will come from the extra weight? Incidentally, I routinely fly at night with 2x 2000 lumen spot lights facing the ground (they are high powered led torch lights, not made for a drone. They each have a single somewhat heavy 5000-mah battery). Looks like a police chopper without the noise. Anyway, I did notice, the battery, and motors are a little hotter when I land, but I have never had issues except a loss of about 5-6 minutes of flight time. You can hear the stress on the props, due to the increased rotor speed needed to lift the weight, but the flight dynamics remain stable. I still get decent flight times and stability, minus the 5-6 minutes. It's nice to see the ground when flying at night. It does tend to piss some of my neighbors off when I pass over their homes. C'est la vie.
Without my spot lights and a 5-7 minute mod boost on flight time, there is some potential. I Usually fly from a 2nd floor balcony and or a roof purch 3 stories high on my roof line for VLOS above trees and stuff. SO, I usually fly kind of far away to get descent shots. I'm lucky to live in florida, just 6 miles from the coast. Their is a bird preserve and many wooded areas with gators around my home. Lot's to look at, a little extra flight time could help me out quite a bit. By the way, It looks like the extra flight batteries take away 5-7 minutes of flight, but give an extra 15 minutes total. This turns out to be an extra 7 minutes of flight, i guess. You are right, I don't know what the long term effects would be on the drone, putting it under the stress of such a load, at longer flight intervals. The batteries might get hot and swell.=, especially on hot days. I would never fly the drone with those extra flight batteries if the outdoor operating temps got near the 40c operating temp limits of the drone. High outdoor temps and flying with extra weight is a bad idea. I wonder when they will be releasing the new tiny (uav sized) Hydrogen fuel cell Polymer batteries. I hear they can hold a lot more power at a much lighter weight. This will be a game changer for drones.. Electric cars are using hydrogen batteries or a version of hydrogen fuel cell ( a larger version of course). Hydrogen based electrical power is very efficient. Quoted below, is a company called AMS COMPOSITE CYLINDERS. They make UAV sized hydrogen batteries. They are likely too expensive for release to the general consumer public. THEY CAN FLY FOR HOURS ! NOT JUST MINUTES!.

"At AMS Composite Cylinders, we have already been heavily involved in several Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) projects. Using hydrogen fuel cells and our ultra-lightweight cylinders, the drone manufacturers have been able to deliver UAVs with flight times of several hours."
Its not really a function of capacity of the payload you are carrying in this case. I reckon your lights are single cell 4.2V x 5000mAh. When we talk about bootstraping a pack to the Mavic Pro it is 3x4.2VxCapacity (3s packs). Granted you are adding 2 spot lights. But beware, many batteries out there (especially non-Drone use) may or may not be actually the advertised capacity. So, the easiest way to check is just weigh it up. Payload vs flight time change.

As of today, li ion are still offer the economical, safe flight capacity compared to the fuel cells or even gas i suppose.
 
hi im new here and joined for this topic specifically in i have been skeptical of this mod for since i fist saw it for sale on etsy and it got me thinking about modifying the oem battery by 3d printing a new upper shell and then adding cells to the 3 cell packs in side... there for adding capacity to an other wise stock battery as far as the electronics go...
would anyone be interested in this?
 
e48d86d814ca80b323d330274a574575.jpg


This is how I connected it.
I think you are right that it creates one big battery. I just did another test where I only had the LiPo batteries on and the mavics battery off this turned the drone on but the mavics battery did not show any signs of charging. The reason why I thought it charged the mavics battery was because I thought that the battery was charging when only the LiPo's were on, I saw wrong, my apologies. Another thing to note is that as expected the mavic will not connect to the controller unless the smart battery is turned on so when that is low the drone must land. This is probably the reason why the LiPo's can last three flights, due to the fact that the smart battery dies first.
that looks dangerous and risky for a 1000 drone
 
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Silly question maybe, but I still don't understand why modifying an original battery pack is not the best path to get larger battery ?

Changing the cells and keeping the battery electronic board and connector seems definitely easier to me.

So what's the point ?
 
Silly question maybe, but I still don't understand why modifying an original battery pack is not the best path to get larger battery ?

Changing the cells and keeping the battery electronic board and connector seems definitely easier to me.

So what's the point ?
It sounds easy, but understand that DJI has intentionally kept it difficult by utilizing tamper proofing electronics and software in the battery management IC. So, if the moment you attempt to disconnect a cell it will trigger software flags that will brick the whole pack. There are work arounds and also softwares to reset these, but they are not free.

Next, you also must rewrite correct new capacities to the fuel gauge so as to allow your drone to relay correct flight times remaining to you / your flight application.
 
i'm adding 13 minutes for $60-$70.
with all the hills and wind, i used to need 2-3 20 minute flights to line up and take certain shots and now i do it in one 33 minute one.
i can't even remember the last time i brought my mavic pro back in for a battery change... and if i was cool with battery changes, i'd probably just get a mavic air.
Hi, I reverse engineered the discussion, so to have some answers. Here I have found a good point.
I live and fly up in the Mont Blanc region, so I always fly above 1200 meters above sea, and ALWAYS in windy heights ( over pinewoods, through canyons climbing up to 2800 meters ).
My standard batteries usually last around 15- 18 minutes, things that very soon I discoverd was boring and unbearable. So: what kind of battery should I choose in your opinion? To reach at least 20 minutes, I am not pretending....
Thank You
 
e48d86d814ca80b323d330274a574575.jpg


This is how I connected it.
I think you are right that it creates one big battery. I just did another test where I only had the LiPo batteries on and the mavics battery off this turned the drone on but the mavics battery did not show any signs of charging. The reason why I thought it charged the mavics battery was because I thought that the battery was charging when only the LiPo's were on, I saw wrong, my apologies. Another thing to note is that as expected the mavic will not connect to the controller unless the smart battery is turned on so when that is low the drone must land. This is probably the reason why the LiPo's can last three flights, due to the fact that the smart battery dies first.
Great picture. but weird!!! i see a connection to subbattery 1 and 2 in parallel, so the voltage is the same and the amperage is higher so that means that you have more Ah (Ampérage Hour). i think you should connect a third one to subbattery three but NEVER connect the other wires of the intelligent battery because they are for the intelligent functions. I. that case you probablt would have 33% extra total time above your 7 x 60 seconds so that would mean not 7 but 7+3,5 minutes extra! i thought about soldering a connector that wires two original intelligent batteries (one beneath) on where i measure only 3 Volt on each of the 3 subcells. Even Tesla batteries work like this... So the same like above but there should be a third connection! But as the second battery is intelligent, probably it needs one of the other data connectors (not batteryconnections like above) to be able to ‘start them’ to give their charge to the other intelligent battery. You should be able then to check your battery expectation in the Go4 app and there you can multiply the ‘fly time’ with the factor you will find (i guess some 1,8 times more because of extra weight). +je
 
Great picture. but weird!!! i see a connection to subbattery 1 and 2 in parallel, so the voltage is the same and the amperage is higher so that means that you have more Ah (Ampérage Hour). i think you should connect a third one to subbattery three but NEVER connect the other wires of the intelligent battery because they are for the intelligent functions. I. that case you probablt would have 33% extra total time above your 7 x 60 seconds so that would mean not 7 but 7+3,5 minutes extra! i thought about soldering a connector that wires two original intelligent batteries (one beneath) on where i measure only 3 Volt on each of the 3 subcells. Even Tesla batteries work like this... So the same like above but there should be a third connection! But as the second battery is intelligent, probably it needs one of the other data connectors (not batteryconnections like above) to be able to ‘start them’ to give their charge to the other intelligent battery. You should be able then to check your battery expectation in the Go4 app and there you can multiply the ‘fly time’ with the factor you will find (i guess some 1,8 times more because of extra weight). +je
The connection is ok, the only way you can connect it.
I prefer to solder the connection directly to the drone, works much better, since you get a voltage drop with that flimsy connector.

If you change the battery type to 3 (I think) you can fly without smart batteries. The mavic 1 also have a very neat function, that it still shows the total voltage of the battery, even with battery type 3.

I even tried adding 4cells, and that works splendid (mavic1 can take it, not the platinum). But it will empty the 4cells to a not healthy voltage. In this way you disharge the 4cell first, so you get max flightime from it.
 
Have you guys ever seen these "reece23" modded batteries? This one is for mp1with 7000mah! (Deleted by Moderator) if u ask me! Lol. Honestly I don't think all these mods with smaller batteries will get the flight time these batteries can offer. they make them for all the dji birds too
 

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Have you guys ever seen these "reece23" modded batteries? This one is for mp1with 7000mah! (Deleted by Moderator) if u ask me! Lol. Honestly I don't think all these mods with smaller batteries will get the flight time these batteries can offer. they make them for all the dji birds too
Got a link to them?
 

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