Just to clarify Vincent Ng did not make my packs. Mine were made by a Mr. Khor from Perak, Malaysia. Vincent is based in Singapore.
Khor quoted US$140 for a 11740mAh pack.
Mavic Pro Battery Mod
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Khor quoted US$140 for a 11740mAh pack.
Yeah I understood that and thank you for re clarifying. Do we know if Mr Khor can ship to the states? How can I contact him?
I'm going to PM you his number and you can contact him by WhatsApp. He can speak passable English but maybe you can use google translate. According to
it is prohibited to ship batteries that are not manufactured to UN standards so even if something ships, I guess there is a high risk of transportation blockage that can occur along the way. I was thinking of helping to ship it to the states on your behalf but it looks risky.
Chewbacca
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Thanks for the info. ? I'm going to be modding my Platinum this evening, but I will be opening it up to solder the T60 leads to the Batt board +/- lines. I was thinking of using dual 3 cell LIHV 2400's to mount on the sides of the bird but haven't decided exactly which batteries that I will use. Cheers✌
Are you asking me for Khor's contact? May I refer you to Vincent Ng instead, who seems to be open to international business?
I happen to live next a small airport in Northern Finland and have an occasional flight control permission to fly my Mavic Pro up to firmware limits taking pictures from high.
my issue is that I began to read this thread and got idea to extend my stay up, but cannot find those ProTeks in Europe. What would be the battery of choice to use, single or double?
My thinking is that it may be too much weight to tug two 4500mAh batteries straight up..
my issue is that I began to read this thread and got idea to extend my stay up, but cannot find those ProTeks in Europe. What would be the battery of choice to use, single or double?
My thinking is that it may be too much weight to tug two 4500mAh batteries straight up..
Exphantomflyer
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You want Vincent’s battery, they aren’t cheap but they are well made and work well
BobDoLe
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i had good experience with the hyperion g8 batteries. i gave up on the proteks as they eventually kept puffing on me and that was threatening to get expensive. not like you need them to last forever though as you'll probably upgrade your camera drone. yes if you're flying high up weight will be an issue, but you could also slow your ascent keeping your eye on rpm.
G8 3S 4400mAh Si-Graphene Lightweight LiPo 30C (4.35 / 4.2V)
or
G8 3S 3650mAh Si-Graphene Lightweight LiPo 30C (4.35 / 4.2V)
Total cost feels a bit too steep with shipping and additional taxes combined. I have a feeling that single relative light Protek 3600mAh or similar could be the best option in my case. I have adjusted ascend velocity to 7m/s with that my stock battery endures like this.
Note that this all has been done legally with flight control permission in empty airspace. Max permitted altitude was 2500m / 8200ft
0m - 100%
500m - 94% (1640 ft)
1000m - 86% (3280 ft)
1500m - 76% (4921 ft)
2000m - 67% (6560 ft)
2500m - 59% (8200 ft)
Higher than 7m/s ascend rate at high altitude results max rotor speed and increasing load too much will create issues in my case. Also the wind usually starts to be too strong that altitude.
Regular 3m/s descend treshold will kick in RTH at 1800m (5900 ft), but certain parameter changes with 10m/s descend rate help to bring the bird back within the stock battery limits.
Had one accident once during the descend with a falcon. Luckily it decided to abort, but it was a terrifying thing to see a falcon in nose dive following the drone on its way down.
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Apologies in advance if it's already been posted, but I have two dead MP batteries and since I couldn't make them any worse (kinda) I pulled them apart, with the intention of using some 18650 batteries to make them work again. I only found out by accident afterwards that once the BMS is de-powered then it won't work after that.
I was wondering if it's possible to connect the batteries directly to the correct pins and have the drone power-up. I realise there wouldn't be any data coming from the BMS but as long as there's power I'd be happy enough. I had a quick look through this thread but if it's been mentioned I must have missed it sorry.
Attached is a screen capture of what I drew in CAD to hold the six 18650's.
I was wondering if it's possible to connect the batteries directly to the correct pins and have the drone power-up. I realise there wouldn't be any data coming from the BMS but as long as there's power I'd be happy enough. I had a quick look through this thread but if it's been mentioned I must have missed it sorry.
Attached is a screen capture of what I drew in CAD to hold the six 18650's.
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have done it several times and then used it after that normally.
In your case your bms most probably was already blocked by previous deep discharge event.
So it would be better to jump the FETs rather then exclude bms at all.
At least you will have cells voltage and temp information in the app.
That's good to hear, thanks. I'll give it a go and see if it works.
Edit - I printed the battery carrier, for a test-fit, and it seems to be pretty good so far. The all-up weight should just sneak in under 330 grams with better batteries - The ones in the photos are ~45 grams, the larger capacity ones are 48 grams.
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Just thinking out, 11.1V Lipo is not optimal because the drone battery starts to charge it resulting a quicker discharge of drone battery.
Would it make any sense using a 4S Lipo with a voltage regulator to drop the extra battery voltage to a decent level? And maybe adding a hefty diode to control the current direction?
Would it make any sense using a 4S Lipo with a voltage regulator to drop the extra battery voltage to a decent level? And maybe adding a hefty diode to control the current direction?
Ho3Assassain
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Exphantomflyer
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That’s a balance charger cable isn’t it ?
I scrapped additional bats and went through this route
Filipok
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