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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

Im running the prototype. I like it. Powerful and compact. But this is for the nanosync thread.
@digdat0 : will you still try the xt60 thing and see if it is an absolute no-go?

yeah, i ordered some xt60's and they arrive tomorrow (didnt know post office delivered sundays!). I already opened the battery, why not try it and see if i get similar results. if it works, i can use it with my non-moded Mavic, if not i just remove the mod and fill two holes. I kinda wanted to see if i could hook up the smartboard to externals without the DJI cells, so that may be my next step afterwards.
 
so in theory, if you spliced in the balance plugs as well .. then it should balance things out, as its getting the overall voltage? I know that Horizon Antennas some time back (for p3?) argued that this was the best way to achieve results from a modded battery, not just the power plug but balance leads as well.
Probably only for the Mavic APP to recognise the 2 batteries as one big battery.
I would use a multi pin connector to charge each battery pack separately as charging with cells in parallel is not good according to some LiPo experts. After both packs are charged you could plug them together and each of the 2 parallel cell banks should read as a single units. Probably important so the Mavic APP would read them correctly.
It would probably only be useful if both the Mavic pack and the piggy back pack had matching cells capacity wise :confused:.
 
I was thinking of making a direct mavic mod but a clean one without cables dangling. 2 female bullet type connectors and use of adapter cable to XT60 or y type for 2 packs if needed. intention is for 5mm sticking out of mavic, the rest inside. Gonna try this as soon I have some " plastic weld" glue and cables.
Here's the idea (someone with 3d printer could easily make something similar..)

The plugs glued inside a shell, and shell glued onto mavic over the cable hole:
plugs.jpg

I was thinking of these positions:
mod.jpg

Around 5mm of the red plug shell will be inside the mavic, surely it can be done spacewise and with a proper type of glue? I think plastic welder from " versachem" would do the trick. Any ideas welcome.
Edit: i'm abandoning the battery direct-mod. Almost sure no-one has it working, too silent about this..
Edit edit: The black plastic is very hard/compact, the red plug-shell is PA I guess. what glue can be used for a permanent bond? I tried JB weld (the classic one) but I could pull both off without too much force..
 
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Make a real nice "no wires until needed" type setup. Looks nice.
That's indeed the idea. Should be pretty clean. Weak point is the plug inside the black casing, do not want to push this inside the mavic when plugging in. So need a really good glue.
 
That's indeed the idea. Should be pretty clean. Weak point is the plug inside the black casing, do not want to push this inside the mavic when plugging in. So need a really good glue.
Is it possible to Thead the red plugs then Tap Magic case . Screw into Magic with glue..? Just a thought as I'm on Isle o Skye and it's too windy to Fly.. try when I'm home on Tues....
 
I was thinking of making a direct mavic mod but a clean one without cables dangling. 2 female bullet type connectors and use of adapter cable to XT60 or y type for 2 packs if needed. intention is for 5mm sticking out of mavic, the rest inside. Gonna try this as soon I have some " plastic weld" glue and cables.
Here's the idea (someone with 3d printer could easily make something similar
Around 5mm of the red plug shell will be inside the mavic, surely it can be done spacewise and with a proper type of glue? I think plastic welder from " versachem" would do the trick. Any ideas welcome.
Edit: i'm abandoning the battery direct-mod. Almost sure no-one has it working, too silent about this..
Edit edit: The black plastic is very hard/compact, the red plug-shell is PA I guess. what glue can be used for a permanent bond? I tried JB weld (the classic one) but I could pull both off without too much force..
Love the idea, I was pondering doing this with the same like the ones Kyle from maxxuav ca posted but didn’t think there would be room inside. I like this approach, clean ., super clean.
 
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Just picked up the idea last night and scavenged for useful stuff. The black "casing" is actually a slice of a TV mount spacer for flatscreens. Im not sure if it conducts electricity that's why I used the bullet connector including red shell. You could use all kinds of stuff, the only thing is that it has to be "fixable" after the top cover is back on. You can only pull maybe an inch of cable out to make your " clean mod" so you can push that back into the mavic and do the detailing. I' ve seen some XT60 mounts to fix that but still a lot of cable in view and the mount has to be attached from below, so impossible. Also xt60 requires some force to plug out. Normally this is good but in this case you'd put too much strain on the cabling. The bullet connectors are firm yet better usable, you can (un) plug them 1 by 1.
 
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I was thinking of making a direct mavic mod but a clean one without cables dangling. 2 female bullet type connectors and use of adapter cable to XT60 or y type for 2 packs if needed. intention is for 5mm sticking out of mavic, the rest inside. Gonna try this as soon I have some " plastic weld" glue and cables.
Here's the idea (someone with 3d printer could easily make something similar..)

The plugs glued inside a shell, and shell glued onto mavic over the cable hole:
View attachment 15761

I was thinking of these positions:
View attachment 15762

Around 5mm of the red plug shell will be inside the mavic, surely it can be done spacewise and with a proper type of glue? I think plastic welder from " versachem" would do the trick. Any ideas welcome.
Edit: i'm abandoning the battery direct-mod. Almost sure no-one has it working, too silent about this..
Edit edit: The black plastic is very hard/compact, the red plug-shell is PA I guess. what glue can be used for a permanent bond? I tried JB weld (the classic one) but I could pull both off without too much force..

I'm taking off for a week but when I get back I'm doing something similar (like the one I did for the p4) good thinking though !!

5af77008b53687694e8735c2600987f6.jpg
e22ca99d81a617e0e59e1c779cca918c.jpg
 
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even if it doesnt work, you guys deserve pics :) will try it in the morning as well as some mile runs for a fb contest.

UUGMcWs.jpg


0gicY5o.jpg

GHF7u51.jpg


Dhe28jb.jpg

uLTdCOs.jpg


9wC4XG9.jpg

dqx3a7l.jpg
Very nice job! Have fun!
Do you have any pics of the mod inside mavic? Where did you solder those wires?
 
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even if it doesnt work, you guys deserve pics :) will try it in the morning as well as some mile runs for a fb contest.

UUGMcWs.jpg


0gicY5o.jpg

GHF7u51.jpg


Dhe28jb.jpg

uLTdCOs.jpg


9wC4XG9.jpg

dqx3a7l.jpg

Nice work! Now lets see if the external battery is truly leveraged. I still don't understand why this hasn't worked properly for the other that have tried. With a direct connection to the cells of the pack, which I assume that solder point is at, there should NOT be any resistance in that connection. The external cells if of decent C rating, should exactly match the Mavic battery at the end of the flight. Please test with your Multistar LiHV, as we know those work well.
 
Very nice job! Have fun!
Do you have any pics of the mod inside mavic? Where did you solder those wires?

I tapped into the middle of main wires (Black and White coming off the battery connect). I think Digdat0 soldered directly at the board (points V and G at board) which are the those solder points at the bottom, partially obscured by the black wire. Here's mine, although I took the picture later after I'd already taped:
IMG_20170620_201045.jpg
 
I tapped into the middle of main wires (Black and White coming off the battery connect). I think Digdat0 soldered directly at the board (points V and G at board) which are the those solder points at the bottom, partially obscured by the black wire. Here's mine, although I took the picture later after I'd already taped:
View attachment 15810
Thanks. I guess white is the new red?
also curious how @digdat0 his mod will do. As you said, I measured the XT60 connector coming out of battery, 13v. On or off does not matter.
 
I tapped into the middle of main wires (Black and White coming off the battery connect). I think Digdat0 soldered directly at the board (points V and G at board) which are the those solder points at the bottom, partially obscured by the black wire. Here's mine, although I took the picture later after I'd already taped:
View attachment 15810
CyberNate I'm coming after you.;)
 
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So i took out the modded battery, flew one single Multistar 3000 3s LiHV and the results were the same as you guys. I flew it down to 14% only 13 mins flight.. i went a mile out and back, then 6k out and back and hovered and dodged a turkey vulture. I thought my screen recorder was on, but it wasn't :/ Battery was at 14% when I landed and volts at 11.6v.


upload_2017-6-26_14-9-33.png

Here's the voltage chart.

upload_2017-6-26_14-6-6.png

Okay, don't laugh. I had taped the power lines together so they would be outa the way. When it landed, nature called from too much coffee. So i just turned off the battery, left it in the Mavic and still connected. When i came back, i unplugged things and powered the Mavic back on to get a screenshot, the battery was re-charged to 28%.

upload_2017-6-26_14-14-38.png

Here's the voltage on the battery, even at 3.86 across the board, and thats with them re-charging the battery some .. they should have been closer to 3.6.

upload_2017-6-26_14-16-19.png


mgB98Vj.jpg


So yes, i do believe that the direct battery mod is not a workable modification, at this time. The smart board is obviously controlling something in the power coming through and it aint liking the extra, and the weight is reducing the flight time and somehow its re-charging the DJI battery in flight.

Battery clip and direct power mods only as it seems, unless someone wants to solder onto this spot here:

upload_2017-6-26_14-18-26.png

thats the only way I can think of it, then your forcing power directly into the pins, and bypassing the circuitry of the board.

On the p3, there was a spot on the battery we could use which didn't go through the circuitry of the board, it seems this is removed from Mavic.
 

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