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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

Note that i also received Battery:Overcurrent During Discharge messages during the flight. The only other time i ever saw that was in Hawaii flying in like 20-30mph gusts and only once in sport mode. Here's the log if you guys wanna take a lookAirdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones

on the bright side, we can show that this is an easy way to hookup external things, like a light or such. or even (unsafely) charge batteries in the field.
 
So i took out the modded battery, flew one single Multistar 3000 3s LiHV and the results were the same as you guys. I flew it down to 14% only 13 mins flight.. i went a mile out and back, then 6k out and back and hovered and dodged a turkey vulture. I thought my screen recorder was on, but it wasn't :/ Battery was at 14% when I landed and volts at 11.6v.


View attachment 15860

Here's the voltage chart.

View attachment 15859

Okay, don't laugh. I had taped the power lines together so they would be outa the way. When it landed, nature called from too much coffee. So i just turned off the battery, left it in the Mavic and still connected. When i came back, i unplugged things and powered the Mavic back on to get a screenshot, the battery was re-charged to 28%.

View attachment 15861

Here's the voltage on the battery, even at 3.86 across the board, and thats with them re-charging the battery some .. they should have been closer to 3.6.

View attachment 15863


mgB98Vj.jpg


So yes, i do believe that the direct battery mod is not a workable modification, at this time. The smart board is obviously controlling something in the power coming through and it aint liking the extra, and the weight is reducing the flight time and somehow its re-charging the DJI battery in flight.

Battery clip and direct power mods only as it seems, unless someone wants to solder onto this spot here:

View attachment 15864

thats the only way I can think of it, then your forcing power directly into the pins, and bypassing the circuitry of the board.

On the p3, there was a spot on the battery we could use which didn't go through the circuitry of the board, it seems this is removed from Mavic.

Yup, seems that power board has too much brains in it and causes trouble. Right to the power distribution board inside the Mavic body is the only way for me.... now to make it "Clean" like I did my p4 lol
 
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That diagram I posted had the wrong pins .. Pin 2 and 3 are negative, 4 to 7 are positive and 8 and 9 negative, left from right. In theory these connectors on the smart board would bypass the electronics and put juice straight into the pins, similar to the battery clip just soldered. I’m gonna try it I think .. do i solder onto one pin per +/- or two? Battery clips bridge two .. so no harm, but why two and not just one?
 

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That diagram I posted had the wrong pins .. Pin 2 and 3 are negative, 4 to 7 are positive and 8 and 9 negative, left from right. In theory these connectors on the smart board would bypass the electronics and put juice straight into the pins, similar to the battery clip just soldered. I’m gonna try it I think .. do i solder onto one pin per +/- or two? Battery clips bridge two .. so no harm, but why two and not just one?

Most likely the reason is for a better connection. Those clips have a thin connection point. Even spanning 2 pins, the connection is not optimal. Regarding the battery connector, for some odd reason DJI felt compelled to make it apple-esk, having a reversible connection. That really seems unnecessary and adds weight to their design.
 
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Note that i also received Battery:Overcurrent During Discharge messages during the flight. The only other time i ever saw that was in Hawaii flying in like 20-30mph gusts and only once in sport mode. Here's the log if you guys wanna take a lookAirdata UAV - Flight Data Analysis for Drones

on the bright side, we can show that this is an easy way to hookup external things, like a light or such. or even (unsafely) charge batteries in the field.

I still don't understand how a circuit board AFTER battery connections can influence which battery the current comes from it makes zero sense. I would have tapped into the wires in the battery directly, not those high temperature solder points which are also likely coated to avoid conduction in case water gets in. This is also why when I did my direct battery mod connection points to the wires and not the board solder points. I have perfect conduction. Almost too good, as my externals deplete well before my Mavic battery. At 3%, my externals are below 3.5V. The circuit board BMS has inherent resistance, so it would make sense that there is some voltage drop on the Mavic batteries at the point of the Mavic main internal leads. Even so, batteries connected in parallel going into the BMS should remain at same voltage at all time except for internal battery resistance which will cause some voltage sag which can be to a greater or lesser degree as compared to the Mavic's own LiHV cells.
 
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Anyone know of a good source for the multistar lihv batteries? amazon, eBay, and hobby king all out of stock.
 
Anyone know of a good source for the multistar lihv batteries? amazon, eBay, and hobby king all out of stock.

Order through HobbyKing choosing the international option. The batteries come from China faster than you'd expect. I recommend you get a couple 4000s and couple 3000s. 4000s work great when there is little to no wind, and 3000s are lightweight for the amount of power you get. Some regular lipo 1500s are great for regular flights. Barely notice they are there when flying.
 
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Order through HobbyKing choosing the international option. The batteries come from China faster than you'd expect. I recommend you get a couple 4000s and couple 3000s. 4000s work great when there is little to no wind, and 3000s are lightweight for the amount of power you get. Some regular lipo 1500s are great for regular flights. Barely notice they are there when flying.
A pair of 3000 or 4000's not too much weight for the Mavic?
 
I ordered a pair of 1300's but I don't think I'm gonna get enough time out of those to please me. I may try a pair of 3000's.
 
Order through HobbyKing choosing the international option. The batteries come from China faster than you'd expect. I recommend you get a couple 4000s and couple 3000s. 4000s work great when there is little to no wind, and 3000s are lightweight for the amount of power you get. Some regular lipo 1500s are great for regular flights. Barely notice they are there when flying.

There must be a shortage, can't find them in stock anywhere. Oh well, I will have to be patient :)

drone-range-test-14.png
 
They have the 3000's cause I just ordered some.
3000s are good for around 46,000 ft out as digdat0 flew his nearly perfectly right down to zero battery. Dual 4000s are about the maximum the Mavic can handle and good for a maximum of 55 to 56k. I did 54k and was at 3%.
 
as a newbie....is there a direct replacement battery for our mavic? a plug n play solution with less weight and more flying time....
 

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