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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

Hello,

I was doing some studies on how to use the 18650 on Mavic.

Battery rating:
According to the bat_current values from the flight log, it looks that Mavic usually needs around 8Amp. Maxumum it needs is 25Amp and I was able to use so much by increasing the maximum speed of the drone.

I have studied the battery model LG18650HG2 as it looked to me to be the best for our requirements. It can provide easily 20Amperes therefore it is suitable from this point of view (discharge rate).

Flight time can be calculated as follows:

Note: Referring to the current stored (mAh) in the battery is not correct. The drone uses power to stay in the air, not current. Power = tension * current. This battery does not have the tension (voltage) constant as with other Lithium battery chemistries, therefore the power it stores is less.

For example, if we would ignore the voltage drop, we would expect to have 3.8v * 3A = 11.4Watt.
In reality, this battery will provide 9.8Watts @10A therefore a 3S chain will provide 29.4 Watt.

DJI's battery has 43Watts @ 240grams
If we replace their battery with 3s2p we will have 58.8watt @ 300grams. We would expect 36% longer flight time if the weight would be the same. As we are 60 grams heavier (8% of the total weight) we would probably use 8% more power therefore we should achieve 33% longer flight time. This is gross calculation because the motor's efficiency starts to drop from 60% speed which can further impact our flight time.

Therefore, we be able to fly from 21 minutes -> 27.9 minutes
or distance from 13km -> 17.29km

The problem with LG's battery chemistry (H-NMC) is the voltage of this battery will reach 3.5Volt around 1000mA used @ 10A and 3.3volt at 1800mA. At this point Mavic will decide that the battery is depleted and end the flight, even though we still have 11.52watts left (39% of the battery).

I'm thinking that there are 2 quick solutions to this problem:

Solution 1: We might be able to configure the drone to fly with his battery. We can do this by changing some configuration parameters. I'm not sure if this can work even if we convince the drone to try because the motors might need higher voltage.

I suggest to review the following parameters:

g_config_bat_config_emergency_voltage 3000 -> 2600
raw_bat_level_1 3960 -> 3250
raw_bat_level_2 3600 -> 2800
g_config_bat_config_bat_limit_limit_vol_min 3300 -> 2700
g_config_bat_config_bat_limit_limit_vol_max 3700 -> 3500

Solution 2: We can put 4 batteries in series. We can see in the datasheet that the voltage drop on this battery is almost immediate therefore even if we have 16.8volts when is fully charged, it will drop very soon to 14.8Volts. You can review the file hg2.pdf (first entry on google) to visualise the voltage values. 4.2*4 = 16.8v is normally really high if the drone expects 11.4v. At 3.7v each cell we would get 14.8 which is still high but it might work. Looking over DJI's products, their E300 ESC supports 4s for a 3s drone. Granted, this is not the ESC used in Mavic, but I was unable to find the ESC datasheet for Mavic. However, I strongly doubt that they would design an ESC that will burn at 16volts.

Charging the battery at a lower voltage is not ok, because we are losing the whole advantage of power density of this cell therefore if we don't want to charge the battery at 100%, is better to stick with other chemistries.

If we put 4s2p, we'll get 78.4Watt but an extra 166 grams : 82% more power, 22% more weight. This should get us 50% longer flight time but we are getting dangerously close into the motors inefficiency zone.

Therefore I expect to get from 21min -> 31 minutes or from 13 km -> 19.5km.

There is a 3rd solution but is more difficult to implement:
It involves adding a DC/DC converter which costs money, weights a little as well and has a 87-93% efficiency. We could put any reasonable number of batteries with this converter as we can provide whatever tension we want. For example 5 batteries would get us the same weight and the original Mavic but after the conversion loss we'll end up with 9.8*5*0.87 = 42.63 watts which is less than the original battery. The advantage here is that we could put 6, 7, 8, 9 batteries and still provide the same output voltage.

Note: I haven't tried any of the above. This is just theory (educated guess). I am not sure if the reduction of flight time calculated above is correct. If it is not correct, we'll get longer flight times but I strongly doubt that we will be able to achieve 52 minutes of flight time.

If anyone tries to put 4 batteries in series, please let us know, so we don't risk burning too many drones....

A comment regarding what I've seen people to do here: Use in parallel of batteries with different chemistries. I don't think this idea is wise: As we noted, the H-NMC battery will quickly lose tension. The other battery connected (Li-Ion) is not losing the tension at the same rate; LiIon has a tension curve which is quite flat during most of the power provided. What will happen is: The Li-Ion will start charging the H-NMC, but it will do so at an unregulated current. Both are designed for high current output and the transfer of the current will be at the rate that H-NMC can absorb power. This will result in batteries getting hot (high current transfer tends to do that because of the internal resistance of the battery). The drone might even get starved of power if the Li-Ion cannot charge the H-NMC and power the drone in the same time. You could very well crash your drone doing this. If you don't crash your drone, I am sure that you'll damage the batteries. Another problem with this is the heat generated is from the power that we wanted to use in order to fly the drone, power that we now waste. And finally, note that H-NMC can only work with this drone configuration until 3.3volts therefore you can only use 60% of the power which it stores.


Regards!
 
Last edited:
Hello,

I was doing some studies on how to use the 18650 on Mavic.

Battery rating:
According to the bat_current values from the flight log, it looks that Mavic usually needs around 8Amp. Maxumum it needs is 25Amp and I was able to use so much by increasing the maximum speed of the drone.

I have studied the battery model LG18650HG2 as it looked to me to be the best for our requirements. It can provide easily 20Amperes therefore it is suitable from this point of view (discharge rate).

Flight time can be calculated as follows:

Note: Referring to the current stored (mAh) in the battery is not correct. The drone uses power to stay in the air, not current. Power = tension * current. This battery does not have the tension (voltage) constant as with other Lithium battery chemistries, therefore the power it stores is less.

For example, if we would ignore the voltage drop, we would expect to have 3.8v * 3A = 11.4Watt.
In reality, this battery will provide 9.8Watts @10A therefore a 3S chain will provide 29.4 Watt.

DJI's battery has 43Watts @ 240grams
If we replace their battery with 3s2p we will have 58.8watt @ 300grams. We would expect 36% longer flight time if the weight would be the same. As we are 60 grams heavier (8% of the total weight) we would probably use 8% more power therefore we should achieve 33% longer flight time. This is gross calculation because the motor's efficiency starts to drop from 60% speed which can further impact our flight time.

Therefore, we be able to fly from 21 minutes -> 27.9 minutes
or distance from 13km -> 17.29km

The problem with LG's battery chemistry (H-NMC) is the voltage of this battery will reach 3.5Volt around 1000mA used @ 10A and 3.3volt at 1800mA. At this point Mavic will decide that the battery is depleted and end the flight, even though we still have 11.52watts left (39% of the battery).

I'm thinking that there are 2 quick solutions to this problem:

Solution 1: We might be able to configure the drone to fly with his battery. We can do this by changing some configuration parameters. I'm not sure if this can work even if we convince the drone to try because the motors might need higher voltage.

I suggest to review the following parameters:

g_config_bat_config_emergency_voltage 3000 -> 2600
raw_bat_level_1 3960 -> 3250
raw_bat_level_2 3600 -> 2800
g_config_bat_config_bat_limit_limit_vol_min 3300 -> 2700
g_config_bat_config_bat_limit_limit_vol_max 3700 -> 3500

Solution 2: We can put 4 batteries in series. We can see in the datasheet that the voltage drop on this battery is almost immediate therefore even if we have 16.8volts when is fully charged, it will drop very soon to 14.8Volts. You can review the file hg2.pdf (first entry on google) to visualise the voltage values. 4.2*4 = 16.8v is normally really high if the drone expects 11.4v. At 3.7v each cell we would get 14.8 which is still high but it might work. Looking over DJI's products, their E300 ESC supports 4s for a 3s drone. Granted, this is not the ESC used in Mavic, but I was unable to find the ESC datasheet for Mavic. However, I strongly doubt that they would design an ESC that will burn at 16volts.

Charging the battery at a lower voltage is not ok, because we are losing the whole advantage of power density of this cell therefore if we don't want to charge the battery at 100%, is better to stick with other chemistries.

If we put 4s2p, we'll get 78.4Watt but an extra 166 grams : 82% more power, 22% more weight. This should get us 50% longer flight time but we are getting dangerously close into the motors inefficiency zone.

Therefore I expect to get from 21min -> 31 minutes or from 13 km -> 19.5km.

There is a 3rd solution but is more difficult to implement:
It involves adding a DC/DC converter which costs money, weights a little as well and has a 87-93% efficiency. We could put any reasonable number of batteries with this converter as we can provide whatever tension we want. For example 5 batteries would get us the same weight and the original Mavic but after the conversion loss we'll end up with 9.8*5*0.87 = 42.63 watts which is less than the original battery. The advantage here is that we could put 6, 7, 8, 9 batteries and still provide the same output voltage.

Note: I haven't tried any of the above. This is just theory (educated guess). I am not sure if the reduction of flight time calculated above is correct. If it is not correct, we'll get longer flight times but I strongly doubt that we will be able to achieve 52 minutes of flight time.

If anyone tries to put 4 batteries in series, please let us know, so we don't risk burning too many drones....

A comment regarding what I've seen people to do here: Use in parallel of batteries with different chemistries. I don't think this idea is wise: As we noted, the H-NMC battery will quickly lose tension. The other battery connected (Li-Ion) is not losing the tension at the same rate; LiIon has a tension curve which is quite flat during most of the power provided. What will happen is: The Li-Ion will start charging the H-NMC, but it will do so at an unregulated current. Both are designed for high current output and the transfer of the current will be at the rate that H-NMC can absorb power. This will result in batteries getting hot (high current transfer tends to do that because of the internal resistance of the battery). The drone might even get starved of power if the Li-Ion cannot charge the H-NMC and power the drone in the same time. You could very well crash your drone doing this. If you don't crash your drone, I am sure that you'll damage the batteries. Another problem with this is the heat generated is from the power that we wanted to use in order to fly the drone, power that we now waste. And finally, note that H-NMC can only work with this drone configuration until 3.3volts therefore you can only use 60% of the power which it stores.


Regards!

The guy who managed to get 52 mins of flight time with that Titan 18650 battery showed us the battery temp, which was below 60C. He said his flight was 50% hovering and 50% normal flying. Maybe this will work in long distance mode without using sport mode?
 
Maybe i will try this..
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Does not seem too hard. There must be folks really good at this!
 
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Maybe i will try this..
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Does not seem too hard. There must be folks really good at this!
Back years ago when I was racing RC Cars we all made our own battery packs. Buy the matched cells and solder them up. That was a lot of fun.
 
Where can I buy this batteries?

Can you send me a link to this batteries?

Is it necessary with a own charger for this batteries, I guess it´s not possible to charge them with a DJI charger?

You say that the extra batteries attached to the Mavic are charging the Mavic while flying. Is it then necessary with large batteries?

Maybe it´s better to connect smaller and ligther xtra batteries to the Mavic or do larger batteries charge faster?
 
69748d97c89dcb31837d754a4e6a873d.png
this one
Errrr, I had to go away for a couple days and missed this.
Be careful with that charger, is a knock off iMax B6 charger. It doesn't say SkyRC on it, they didn't show the hologrram on the bottom of it. Some of the fake iMaxB6 one have been know to over charge and blow mosfets also.
I recommend the real SkyRC IMAX B6 chargers, but on average a real one will cost $30+ and also has the hologram on the bottom, and comes in a white box. Well worth the cost, mine is 7 years old and going strong.
Maybe call the seller out on selling fake and eBay's policy, see if you can get your money back. Spend another $15 and get a real one and be safer with a real one.
100% Original SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Professional Balance Charger/Discharger Charger | eBay

They make it with a power supply also, you might find a version 1 for $5 less, but version 2 is worth is for the extra 1 amp charge/discharge if you have to do indivividual cells. Also the firmware is newer, can check insyernalmresistance of the batteries for performance or tell you if a battery is having issues and has a micro USB port.
Original AUTHENTIC SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 ACDC LiPo NiMh Battery Balance Charger US | eBay

For a few dollars you can get the temperature monitor that will monitor the temperature of the pack when charging and cut off the charge if it gets to hot, I think the AC with the power supply might include it? Mine did, but that was years ago and a older version.
SKYRC TEMPERATURE TEMP SENSOR PROBE: LiPo Chargers TRA2928 TRA2933 iMAX B6AC V2 | eBay
 
Yeah you'll see. Those batteries will not last long at all at those levels. I do not like 18650 cells and still don't. And I'm not eating anything right now.
You don't have to, but the batteries in his 7aH pack are Panasonic 18650GA cells and are one of the more stable cells on the market. After all Panasonic/Sanyo make all the cells for Tesla cars and the DOT has approved Tessa's design for driving on the road and they are strict.
His smaller pack had higher discharge cells, different brand but still good. I still prefer Panasonic/Sanyo cells or Samsung of low capacity really high discharge cells when it comes to more stable cells.
Look up the data sheet for the Samsung 25R under safety and see the tests they ran like charging the cells for 3hrs at 20V and 20A, then they mark it as pass with "didn't leak, didn't explode". It's had to be one of the most honest and to the point data sheet test remarks I've ever seen on a battery data sheet.

But to your point, Li-Ion is they safest rechargeable batteries ever made to date. But they are only safe because of the protection boards, battery charging monitoring, cutoffs and BMS included. By them selfs and some are really not that good and you have a hover board that catches fire during charging. So use proper trusted chargers, never charge unattended, and my concern about using them on the mavic is it doesn't treat them like the cells the mavic was designed to monitor.

I am glad this pack ran col unlike the last one. The mavic is cutting it off before it uses all the power from it and that's probably a good thing for the safety of the batteries. But it's not monitoring temperature and over current drain so these and points of concern.
 
Errrr, I had to go away for a couple days and missed this.
Be careful with that charger, is a knock off iMax B6 charger. It doesn't say SkyRC on it, they didn't show the hologrram on the bottom of it. Some of the fake iMaxB6 one have been know to over charge and blow mosfets also.
I recommend the real SkyRC IMAX B6 chargers, but on average a real one will cost $30+ and also has the hologram on the bottom, and comes in a white box. Well worth the cost, mine is 7 years old and going strong.
Maybe call the seller out on selling fake and eBay's policy, see if you can get your money back. Spend another $15 and get a real one and be safer with a real one.
100% Original SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Professional Balance Charger/Discharger Charger | eBay

They make it with a power supply also, you might find a version 1 for $5 less, but version 2 is worth is for the extra 1 amp charge/discharge if you have to do indivividual cells. Also the firmware is newer, can check insyernalmresistance of the batteries for performance or tell you if a battery is having issues and has a micro USB port.
Original AUTHENTIC SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 ACDC LiPo NiMh Battery Balance Charger US | eBay

For a few dollars you can get the temperature monitor that will monitor the temperature of the pack when charging and cut off the charge if it gets to hot, I think the AC with the power supply might include it? Mine did, but that was years ago and a older version.
SKYRC TEMPERATURE TEMP SENSOR PROBE: LiPo Chargers TRA2928 TRA2933 iMAX B6AC V2 | eBay
You are correct about the fake chargers. I avoided Ebay when I was looking for mine and bought it from Amazon. I got the original imax B6AC V2 AC/DC and like it very much. It does a good job for what it is.
 
Where can I buy this batteries?

Can you send me a link to this batteries?

Is it necessary with a own charger for this batteries, I guess it´s not possible to charge them with a DJI charger?

You say that the extra batteries attached to the Mavic are charging the Mavic while flying. Is it then necessary with large batteries?

Maybe it´s better to connect smaller and ligther xtra batteries to the Mavic or do larger batteries charge faster?
The outboard battery is not charging the inboard battery and if it is it means that the voltage is too high on the outboard battery and needs to be charged to a lower level. They both need to discharge at the same rate is the ideal situation.
 
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The outboard battery is not charging the inboard battery and if it is it means that the voltage is too high on the outboard battery and needs to be charged to a lower level. They both need to discharge at the same rate is the ideal situation.

Okay. Thanx for info:)
Can you send a link to the necessary equipment, including batteries and charger that I would need to get extra battery time on my Mavic?
 
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I would go to Hobbyking.com
Okay. Thanx for info:)
Can you send a link to the necessary equipment, including batteries and charger that I would need to get extra battery time on my Mavic?
I would just go to Hobbyking.com and get your batteries and Amazon for the charger. Any lipo charger will work but if you want to use LiHV batteries you will need to make sure that the charger charges this type of battery.
 
Last edited:
I would go to Hobbyking.com

I would just go to Hobbyking.com and get your batteries and Amazon for the charger. Any lipo charger will work but if you want to use LiHV batteries you will need to make sure that the charger charges this type of battery.

What about this batteries?
IMG_2281.jpgIMG_2280.JPG
 
These are good (is it Lipo or Lihv?..)but maybe a bit expensive and overkill? I see no price. My gens-ace 5000mAh 6s packs were over $200 a piece (and needed 6 of em..:()
Correction...my batteries are Optipower (was looking for Gens ace and got these instead..)
Why so expensive??
 
These are good (is it Lipo or Lihv?..)but maybe a bit expensive and overkill? I see no price. My gens-ace 5000mAh 6s packs were over $200 a piece (and needed 6 of em..:()
Correction...my batteries are Optipower (was looking for Gens ace and got these instead..)

It´s Lipo batteries. They are not expensive only $20 a piece
 

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