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Mavic Pro Battery Mod

Hi all - I've read through most of this super long post and I'm going to purchase the clips plus the dual battery holder from maxxuav.

My question is after going through all of this and all the long history I'm still unclear as to what would be the top 3 battery recommended setups w/ this config?

Dual 1600s?, Dual 3000? single piggyback 3/4000?

Would love to see a top 3 setups recommendation for the average user!

Thanks so much!
 
Hi all - I've read through most of this super long post and I'm going to purchase the clips plus the dual battery holder from maxxuav.

My question is after going through all of this and all the long history I'm still unclear as to what would be the top 3 battery recommended setups w/ this config?

Dual 1600s?, Dual 3000? single piggyback 3/4000?

Would love to see a top 3 setups recommendation for the average user!

Thanks so much!


I use dual 3600 Proteks and sometimes triple 3600 Proteks
If you run the triples pull the cover below the rear motors for cooling, and I have drilled a small hole in the front ones for air flow
 
Hi!
I'm reading this thread and really courious about the 18650s ideas. What a pitty the compass problems...
@chazz @Deadleg Thanks! very good job!
 
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Hi all - I've read through most of this super long post and I'm going to purchase the clips plus the dual battery holder from maxxuav.

My question is after going through all of this and all the long history I'm still unclear as to what would be the top 3 battery recommended setups w/ this config?

Dual 1600s?, Dual 3000? single piggyback 3/4000?

Would love to see a top 3 setups recommendation for the average user!

Thanks so much!
I use dual 3600 Proteks and sometimes triple 3600 Proteks
If you run the triples pull the cover below the rear motors for cooling, and I have drilled a small hole in the front ones for air flow

So the Proteks are recommended over the Multistars? What kind of runtime might I expect from dual 1600's?
 
So the Proteks are recommended over the Multistars? What kind of runtime might I expect from dual 1600's?

Runtime all depends on the battery resistance, battery weight and how you fly. Multi star batteries are good batteries for the price and was the go to battery up until about six months ago. Lolo the leaderboard leader flies with thunderpower 4500s and 3500 batteries. The thunderpowers have the best power to weight ratio, but you have to be willing to fly your bird all the way to zero to get the most out of them. The Proteks are probably the most popular used battery today and are double the cost of the multi stars. Using the Protech you can easily fly out to 50K if you know what you doing. The protek perform the opposite of the Thunderpowers. Where the Thunderpower gives off a lot of power at the end the proteks get off most of their energy early on so you need to understand to turn a round much earlier on your long distance flights or you will not make it back.

I'm sure there are plenty of batteries that will work extremely well with the Mavic that have not ever been tried. I started flying the Protek just because I had them lying around for another project. And they ended up being a very good battery for the Mavic. The Multi star, Thunderpower and Protek are all good batteries but don't be afraid to try different batteries just compared there Energy capacity to weight to the Multi star, Thunderpower and Protek batteries to give you some type of idea of its potential. If the battery comes in a hard case you can remove the case to reduce weight. I have two 4600mAh batteries that came in hard cases, each one way 308g and once I remove the hard case the battery weight went down to 279g. I haven't had the opportunity to do a Long distance flight with the battery yet due to the crappy weather we're still having on the east coast, but I'm hoping to hit Mavics hard distance limit using them with just a battery mod and without having to reduce the Mavics weight. Below is a screenshot of a test flight of the batteries l did a couple weeks ago.

IMG_0989.JPG
 
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That smart board may now be bricked, but will still show individual cell voltage and the mah% will no longer count down.
 
Fighting against EMI What if you put 18650 batt pack really far away from compass, below the body with approx 3 cm airgap, (upward direction might be too close to comp) and separate front compass with this mumetal, found the block rearcompass? the front compass module needs to be shielded or its cables too? if it still close, then move front compass farther in the air?
And which batt you recommend for time? out of blue eg. 4s2p hg2 3000mA 20A(flitetime?)? or 4s3p NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A for longer (is it not too heavy?) or sthing else?
 
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I would assume a compass calibrate with the batts in place ...don't help? I had to do that for my tracker and it worked
 
@droneuser @petivel: you can calibrate the compass normally with 4s2p 18650 battery mounted in normal battery space. For larger batteries, 4s3p and 4s4p then @chazz is the expert - see his earlier posts. For 4s2p it's better to use higher current cells like HG2, 30Q or VTC6. You can use 35E but don't open up the power fully or you may exceed the current limit, especially near the end of the flight when the voltage is low. With the 4s3p you can use higher capacity (3,500 mAh) cells, like like 35E, at higher power.
 
yes, Ive read chazz has trouble with compass and jaw issues with 4s3p, and regret his time bec of it (and cant find 4s4p)
 
Do you only get compass errors when using this mod? What's the cause?

I think the reason is depending on how much "metal" sheets are used in a battery it being the battery "pack" itself or the cells within the battery pack.
 
@droneuser @petivel: you can calibrate the compass normally with 4s2p 18650 battery mounted in normal battery space. For larger batteries, 4s3p and 4s4p then @chazz is the expert - see his earlier posts. For 4s2p it's better to use higher current cells like HG2, 30Q or VTC6. You can use 35E but don't open up the power fully or you may exceed the current limit, especially near the end of the flight when the voltage is low. With the 4s3p you can use higher capacity (3,500 mAh) cells, like like 35E, at higher power.

so I would assume on larger batts doing a compass calibrate with batts in place don't work. maybe with the larger batts there is more "metal" sheets within the battery pack? so if you take the batt pack apart and just have the "cells" what happens then? well of course if the pack is wrapped in plastic then it wouldn't change anything....
 
72730793-48D8-47A2-BB86-EFCCD811CA1B.jpeg So how big of battery to run six of these? Each one has 37kg of lift 40” prop I guess it would be similar to the batteries from a electric vehicle 48-60 volt
 
F19BB933-55FC-4CDA-B0F9-89F3616C6AC5.jpeg So if this 2 pound battery can hold 200 amps of 84 volt power why can’t it be reduced and used for more wattage at lower voltage?
 
so I would assume on larger batts doing a compass calibrate with batts in place don't work. maybe with the larger batts there is more "metal" sheets within the battery pack? so if you take the batt pack apart and just have the "cells" what happens then? well of course if the pack is wrapped in plastic then it wouldn't change anything....

Putting this battery next to the compass has the same effect a magnet has. You can see the interference to the compass in the app. The only thing that I found to work is keeping it as far away as possible but because i keep going bigger and adding more batteries that is becoming more difficult. I may try to reconfigure the battery one more time.
 
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Putting this battery next to the compass has the same effect a magnet has. You can see the interference to the compass in the app. The only thing that I found to work is keeping it as far away as possible but because i keep going bigger and adding more batteries that is becoming more difficult. I may try to reconfigure the battery one more time.

what if you take the batt pack apart? are the cells wrapped in metal to form the batt pack?
 
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