ND Filter for Photos

[martycox51]

Is it best to use an ND filter when taking aerial photos with the Mavic 2 Pro?

 

[SteveCA]

there are a number of situations where an ND filter may be useful.

1. to reduce shutter speeds during daytime shooting to create motion blur. For example, waterfalls look more natural at slow shutter speeds as opposed to very fast speeds common in daytime shots.

2. To get into the aperture sharpness sweet spot during the day, you will need ND filters.

3. For daytime videos best shot at 2 times the frame rate, you will need ND filters.

I have every ND filter currently made by polarpro and my most used filters are in order of use are:

ND 64, 32, 128, 16, 256

I shoot a lot of long shutter type shots with motion blur for hyperlapses, water falls, moving water etc. Your needs will be dictated by the type of effects you are shooting for. i’m sure others will chime in with more thoughts.

 

[Serge12]

You can also use digital filters like these:
Lens ND & Polarizing Filters Profile

 

[zocalo]

I think SteveCA covered most of it. The "sweet spot" for the M2P seems to be around f/4, with upto f/5.6 being acceptable before you start to notice diffraction, which offers plenty of DoF on a 1" sensor. My approach is to meter a suitable scene while holding it prior to takeoff, then fit an appropriate CP/ND filter. Like Steve, I have a lot of PP ND & CP filters, although not the ND256 (so far) and also the GND set which can be useful for sunrises and sunsets where you have a lot of contrast between ground and sky. Shooting RAW is pretty much a given for stills, of course, because that will give you a few more stops to play with in post, and full access to the the Hasselblad colour model.

 

[CanadaDrone]

Is it best to use an ND filter when taking aerial photos with the Mavic 2 Pro?

For still photos you do not need a ND filter at all unless:

- The maximum shutter speed is exceeded at your desired settings
- The desired aperture is not small enough at your desired settings
- You want to blur motion, but keep in mind that drones are not very steady, (compared to a tripod) and depending on how picky you are you will notice that pretty quick - usually beyond 1.0sec or so it is quite apparent. This will be slightly better on calm days vs windy days obviously - exact same principles apply as for normal photography.

 

[Meta4]

Is it best to use an ND filter when taking aerial photos with the Mavic 2 Pro?

The simple answer is:
Unless you have a particular reason for wanting to use long shutter speeds in daylight, there is no place in drone still photography for using ND filters.

 

[Lees23]

Gradient filters are nice if you are shooting during the day, your ground is dark(lake or dark green trees) and your sky is bright. Helps keep the sky from becoming blown out(white) is the ground being too dark.

 

[brettbrandon]

A polarizer is good if you are trying to reduce reflections on non metallic surfaces (water, glass, ect). They are also good for ballancing the sky when shooting 90 degrees off the sun as well as making things like fall colors pop out more. I haven't seen just a polarizer so a ND4/PL would probably be the best bet without losing too much light.
For me, its ISO 100 and no extra glass unless needed.
If you don't want to stop down a bunch, you may need a ND filter on a sunny snow covered day.

 

[Meta4]

A polarizer is good if you are trying to reduce reflections on non metallic surfaces (water, glass, etc).

A polariser is good ... if you are holding the camera you have it fitted to, so you can align it to suit your viewing angle.
It's just not practical on a drone.

If you don't want to stop down a bunch, you may need a ND filter on a sunny snow covered day.

That's what you have adjustable shutter speed for.

 

[brettbrandon]

A polariser is good ... if you are holding the camera you have it fitted to, so you can align it to suit your viewing angle.
It's just not practical on a drone.

I'll agree to disagree. If you are taking pics of a landscape and you know which way you are facing, you can set it before launch. If you are using it to reduce glare, you can set it before launch. Popping colors can be set before launch. I have been using polarizers for over a decade on DSLR's and am having no trouble using them on my drone. Just because you are unable to cope with it, dosen't mean others aren't capable of using this tool. I won't bother with the rest of your response...

 

[Meta4]

I'll agree to disagree. If you are taking pics of a landscape and you know which way you are facing, you can set it before launch. If you are using it to reduce glare, you can set it before launch. Popping colors can be set before launch. I have been using polarizers for over a decade on DSLR's and am having no trouble using them on my drone. Just because you are unable to cope with it, dosen't mean others aren't capable of using this tool. I won't bother with the rest of your response...

That's just fine for you going for that one shot but for the vast majority of users, and particularly those that don't have a lot of photographic experience, a polariser isn't worth the trouble.
That's because to work, you have to plan your shot before launch, align the filter correctly for that shot and fly out for that shot.
But if you point the drone in any other direction, your polariser is going to make things look bad.
You can't just slap on a polariser and fly around looking for things to photograph.
A polariser is a quite specialised accessory for drone photography and isn't suitable for general use up in the air.

 

[brettbrandon]

A polariser is a qyute specialised accessory for drone photography and isn't suitable for general use up in the air.

I guess thats why every manufacturer that makes ND's for drones also makes ND/PL's...
Like I said, just because you can't handle them...

 

[Meta4]

Like I said, just because you can't handle them...

And I guess that comprehension isn't your strong suit

 

[SteveCA]

I’ll add one point. Never say never when it comes to photography. I would take any absolute statements as to whether a tool is useful or not, to be ill informed at best. There are absolutely uses for every filter sold by the top manufacturers. Maybe you just haven’t found a use for them but that absolutely does not mean they are not useful. perhaps instead of arguing, post some of your best photos and let the reader decide whether you actually have any photographic ability and therefore credibility.

as far as filters having no place in aerial photography, every top aerial photographer out there would likely beg to differ.

 

[Meta4]

I’ll add one point. Never say never when it comes to photography. I would take any absolute statements as to whether any tool is useful, to be ill informed at best. There are absolutely uses for every filter sold by the top manufacturers. Maybe you just haven’t found a use for them but that absolutely does not mean they are not useful. perhaps instead of arguing, post some of your best photos and let the reader decide whether you actually have any photographic ability and therefore credibility.

I was careful to avoid making a blanket statement but advised of the issues that make a polariser unsuitable for general drone photography.
As for photographic credibility, I have no worry about that and submit this little sampler for your approval:
Shipping Photography Examples - Above & Beyond Photography

as far as filters having no place in aerial photography, every top aerial photographer out there would likely beg to differ.

Despite yours and the opinion of every top aerial photographer out there, I'd still suggest that barring some specialised exceptions, there's no place for filters in drone still photography.
btw .. How did you know what every top aerial photographer out there would say?

 

[SteveCA]

The simple answer is:
Unless you have a particular reason for wanting to use long shutter speeds in daylight, there is no place in drone still photography for using ND filters.

This sure looks like a blanket statement to me...

landscape photos at sunset certainly benefit from gradient ND filters. Yes you can take multiple shots and do an HDR photomerge but for single shot captures, you need a gradient ND to balance the sky/sun with the foreground.

To get to F4.0 during full sun, which many have found to be the sharpest aperture, you might just need an ND filter.

To get shutter speeds low enough to make moving water look natural, you might just need an ND filter.

As far as your shots of ships, I agree you don’t need a filter. I am not going to criticize your nice shots of very colorful ships. But... there are a lot more challenging scenes that involve a lot more variables and especially much higher dynamic range.... too much range for the 12 stops of DR that the MP 2 Pro has.

And yes I know a lot of top Aerial photographers and everyone of them would beg to differ...

 

[Meta4]

This sure looks like a blanket statement to me...

Then you aren't reading very well.
I made a particular effort to qualify my comments with phrases like -

• Unless you have a particular reason for wanting to use long shutter speeds in daylight ....
• barring some specialised exceptions ....

Don't try to misconstrue what I actually said.

landscape photos at sunset certainly benefit from gradient ND filters. Yes you can take multiple shots and do an HDR photomerge but for single shot captures, you need a gradient ND to balance the sky/sun with the foreground.
To get to F4.0 during full sun, which many have found to be the sharpest aperture, you might just need an ND filter.
To get shutter speeds low enough to make moving water look natural, you might just need an ND filter.

All of which are specialised cases, which I allowed for in my previous comments.
That there are exceptions, does not make my comment invalid, particularly wjhen I've mentioned exceptions.

As far as your shots of ships, I agree you don’t need a filter. I am not going to criticize your nice shots of very colorful ships.

Wow ... almost a hint of a compliment after the snarky demand for evidence of photographic ability with the implication that I lack credibility.
I photograph many different subjects and use lots of techniques.
That gallery was just something I could quickly point to.
I'm well aware of lots of specialised techniques where a filter could be used, hence the mention of specialised exceptions.

But... there are a lot more challenging scenes that involve a lot more variables and especially much higher dynamic range.... too much range for the 12 stops of DR that the MP 2 Pro has.

I'm not sure how that relates to filters.
But if you think my examples aren't challenging, try it yourself and see if you can get the exposure right without having the highlights in the bow wave being blown out in bright sun, while you still have full detail in the blacks, even in shaded areas under the bow, like the first ship in the gallery. Once you can do that, try doing it at sea and catching the peak action and composing with a fast moving subject, all the while having to fly with winds blowing up to 20 knots.

And yes I know a lot of top Aerial photographers and everyone of them would beg to differ...

That's great for all the world's great aerial photographers (that you know).
But I still stick with what I've said in this thread.

 

[kilomikebravo]

Come on, folks, let's just have fun, shoot the bull about our drones, and ixnay with the arguing, huh?

 

[SteveCA]

We will agree to disagree. There are more reasons to use ND filters than slow shutter speeds. And I’ve only pointed to a few. I’m sure there are more “specialized situations” that I haven’t encountered.

As far as shooting ships, been there and done that. Those are not high DR shots. getting all the highlight detail as well as shadow detail in such shots are not hard. Just don’t blow the highlights and your good.

 

[NorthGADronePilot]

Gradient filters are nice if you are shooting during the day, your ground is dark(lake or dark green trees) and your sky is bright. Helps keep the sky from becoming blown out(white) is the ground being too dark.

Agreed, but you can handle this in post with near perfection in Lightroom.