ND Filters

[eta314]

From my tests it appears that the sharpest apertures are f4 and f 5.6 on the Mavic 2 Pro. To use a shutter speed of 1/50 in bright sunlight with these apertures you would need a ND 32 filter. Does that sound correct?

 

[parkgt]

That depends on how bright the subject matter is since reflected light determines much of the exposure.

A ND 16 might work for some scenes and a ND32 might be too dark for others. If you want to stay in that narrow a band and not move shutter at all you may need both.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

When I was playing around with Hyperlapse the other day it was partly sunny, f/4 at ISO-100 with 1/25 shutter and ND16 seemed a little overexposed.

 

[parkgt]

When I was playing around with Hyperlapse the other day it was partly sunny, f/4 at ISO-100 with 1/25 shutter and ND16 seemed a little overexposed.

Why would you be stuck at a 1/25 shutter for photos, Raise the shutter speed and your problem goes away.

 

[eta314]

That depends on how bright the subject matter is since reflected light determines much of the exposure.

A ND 16 might work for some scenes and a ND32 might be too dark for others. If you want to stay in that narrow a band and not move shutter at all you may need both.

According to the Sunny f16 Rule, if I was recording on a bright sunny day at f4 then I would need a 5 stop ND filter to achieve 1/50 shutter speed when recording at 24 fps.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

Why would you be at stuck at a 1/25 shutter for photos, Raise the shutter speed and your problem goes away.

Read again... Hyperlapse mode. 1/4 to 1/25 is the sweet spot for motion blur.

 

[parkgt]

Read again... Hyperlapse mode. 1/4 to 1/25 is the sweet spot for motion blur.

If you are looking for blur (which you didn't state) then both the ND32 and ND 64 will be useful. I will also be adding a 128 and 1000.

Here is a post form my experience yesterday using a ND64:

FStop.Labs ND filter sets observations and opinion.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

If you are looking for blur (which you didn't state) then both the ND32 and ND 64 will be useful. I will also be adding a 128 and 1000.

Here is a post form my experience yesterday using a ND64:

FStop.Labs ND filter sets observations and opinion.

My observations were similar with the Skyreat filters. I’m ordering their 32 and 64 shortly. I haven’t found a need for 128 with my P4 so I suspect I won’t need it for the M2P.

 

[SteveCA]

I’ve had the same results in terms of sharpness. F4-5.6 is very sharp. acceptable sharpness up to F7.1. drops off badly after F8. I am buying Nd filters with that in mind. I’m not sure I need anything more than ND 16 except for longer exposures in sunny conditions.

 

[parkgt]

My observations were similar with the Skyreat filters. I’m ordering their 32 and 64 shortly. I haven’t found a need for 128 with my P4 so I suspect I won’t need it for the M2P.

The ND128 and 1000 will probably only be used trying to slow moving water such as a waterfall or a quick flowing stream.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

The ND128 and 1000 will probably only be used trying to slow moving water such as a waterfall or a quick flowing stream.

Of course. I wonder how steady the AC would be able to hover for that long of an exposure.

 

[parkgt]

Of course. I wonder how steady the AC would be able to hover for that long of an exposure.[/QUOTE


Probably not like my GH5 on a tripod; but I have seen some 2 second shots that looked good. Just have avoid windy conditions and accept the some blur.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

I’d love to experiment with it around here however the only thing remotely close enough to a waterfall we have is when I dump the kiddie pool over on the deck.

 

[parkgt]

I’d love to experiment with it around here however the only thing remotely close enough to a waterfall we have is when I dump the kiddie pool over on the deck.

So dry around here now the waterfalls aren't and the streams are low. Maybe later in fall I will get some shots to share.

 

[Roamer105]

Why would you be at stuck at a 1/25 shutter for photos, Raise the shutter speed and your problem goes away.

Not only will the problems go away - the pictures are likely to come out sharper.

 

[Chopstix Kid]

Not only will the problems go away - the pictures are likely to come out sharper.

Go back and follow all the posts... 1/25 for motion blur during Hyperlapse

 

[Lon Denard]

From my tests it appears that the sharpest apertures are f4 and f 5.6 on the Mavic 2 Pro. To use a shutter speed of 1/50 in bright sunlight with these apertures you would need a ND 32 filter. Does that sound correct?

I'm thinking a ND16 for most of my conditions. I used a ND32 most of the time with the Mavic Pro and the ND64 occasionally. As I understand ND filters, they allow a percentage of the light to hit the sensor. ND4 is 1/4, ND8 1/8, etc. So if you are starting with less light, each stop on the VA will half that again. I believe that's how it works. If I'm correct, each stop will make your ND4, for example, an ND8, a ND16, etc. Once I get my filters, I'm also going to test this as well. I'm almost missing the relative simplicity of the MP...

 

[SteveCA]

I'm thinking a ND16 for most of my conditions. I used a ND32 most of the time with the Mavic Pro and the ND64 occasionally. As I understand ND filters, they allow a percentage of the light to hit the sensor. ND4 is 1/4, ND8 1/8, etc. So if you are starting with less light, each stop on the VA will half that again. I believe that's how it works. If I'm correct, each stop will make your ND4, for example, an ND8, a ND16, etc. Once I get my filters, I'm also going to test this as well. I'm almost missing the relative simplicity of the MP...

The thing to keep in mind is that the mavic pro was a F2.2 aperture fixed, so if you used a ND 32 mostly with that drone, and plan to shoot at F4 (sweet spot for MP 2 pro, You would be using a ND 8 to ND 16 at F4-4.5 for the same exposure. I suspect the ND32 wont get as much use given the sweet spot of the MP 2 Pro lens, except to slow down the shutter speed for motion blur

 

[Lon Denard]

The thing to keep in mind is that the mavic pro was a F2.2 aperture fixed, so if you used a ND 32 mostly with that drone, and plan to shoot at F4 (sweet spot for MP 2 pro, You would be using a ND 8 to ND 16 at F4-4.5 for the same exposure. I suspect the ND32 wont get as much use given the sweet spot of the MP 2 Pro lens, except to slow down the shutter speed for motion blur

Yes I agree, that's kind of my point although I lack the experience to articulate it as well as you have. I'm anticipating leaving a ND8 on the drone and only swapping it in low light or extremely bright/winter conditions.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[parkgt]

Yes I agree, that's kind of my point although I lack the experience to articulate it as well as you have. I'm anticipating leaving a ND8 on the drone and only swapping it in low light or extremely bright/winter conditions.

Thanks for the reply!

That depends on where you want your shutter speed to be at. If you want to set shutter at 2 times frame rate you may end up leaving the ND16 on much of the time in bright light.

Here are some of my observations after testing and an update:

FStop.Labs ND filter sets observations and opinion.