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Polar Pro ND4/PL

CappedArc

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I am new to the Mavic 2 Pro and Go 4 app. I recently saw a video that said to adjust the filter properly, point the camera toward the sky and rotate the ring on the filter until you get the right contrast adjustment by viewing the monitor. When I do that I get a warning about the gimbal motor and that I might have to contact DJI (don't remember exactly what it said) but It seemed to correct itself and the warning went away. Is this the correct way to adjust the filter before takeoff? Will this cause any damage to the gimbal motor? Thanks!
 
Adjusting any PL filter *properly* on a drone is a royal pain, not only the turning to suit light, which is better done by hand then carefully fitted to the camera maintaining orientation, but in the direction of intended flight for the shot in mind.
Fit, try, adjust if needed.

As soon as you change direction, you need to go through that again !

And to top it off, the drone (gimbal) needs to be powered down (and preferably clamped) to prevent gimbal / motor damage !!

Way too much drama for an airborne, fragile motor driven gimbal that can turn any direction on a pilots whim.

Of course a PL filter of clear through to whatever level suits the FPS / shutter ratio desired can be fitted and just run.
You will get ND benefits all the time, and occasionally strike it lucky with light direction and PL benefits.
Best to use it / set up for any direction away from the sun to try and avoid other filming complications like exposure and flaring.
 
Adjusting any PL filter *properly* on a drone is a royal pain, not only the turning to suit light, which is better done by hand then carefully fitted to the camera maintaining orientation, but in the direction of intended flight for the shot in mind.
Fit, try, adjust if needed.

As soon as you change direction, you need to go through that again !

And to top it off, the drone (gimbal) needs to be powered down (and preferably clamped) to prevent gimbal / motor damage !!

Way too much drama for an airborne, fragile motor driven gimbal that can turn any direction on a pilots whim.

Of course a PL filter of clear through to whatever level suits the FPS / shutter ratio desired can be fitted and just run.
You will get ND benefits all the time, and occasionally strike it lucky with light direction and PL benefits.
Best to use it / set up for any direction away from the sun to try and avoid other filming complications like exposure and flaring.
Thanks for the advise! I have a lot to learn. I will just set filter at maybe 2 o,clock position (drone powered down), calibrate the gimbal and see how the video looks away from the sun in different directions.
 
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The biggest way to "try" and set a PL filter is ask why are you using it. If for the ground/water then it is set 180 out from one used to adjust sky. As for hurting the gimbal...very unlikley for what it is your doing...just don't get all "Man Handed" with it. Grasp Camera body and just dial the darn thing, if the gimbal determines that it is in danger and overloaded/jammed, it will power off. From there just reboot aircraft. :)
 
The biggest way to "try" and set a PL filter is ask why are you using it. If for the ground/water then it is set 180 out from one used to adjust sky. As for hurting the gimbal...very unlikley for what it is your doing...just don't get all "Man Handed" with it. Grasp Camera body and just dial the darn thing, if the gimbal determines that it is in danger and overloaded/jammed, it will power off. From there just reboot aircraft. :)
Thanks so much for the advise! All great info., food for thought! Still got a lot to learn about camera settings.
 
I recently saw a video that said to adjust the filter properly, point the camera toward the sky and rotate the ring on the filter
That sounds like poor advise (which isn't uncommon with videos).
You shouldn't be pointing the camera to to sky at all, since you aren't going to be shooting upwards.
Point the camera in the direction you will be flying to capture your subject with the camera pointed towards the horizon.
 
That sounds like poor advise (which isn't uncommon with videos).
You shouldn't be pointing the camera to to sky at all, since you aren't going to be shooting upwards.
Point the camera in the direction you will be flying to capture your subject with the camera pointed towards the horizon.
Thanks! Glad I got on this forum! A lot of good advise from pilots that are experienced. So much to learn!
 
As for hurting the gimbal...very unlikley for what it is your doing...just don't get all "Man Handed" with it. Grasp Camera body and just dial the darn thing, if the gimbal determines that it is in danger and overloaded/jammed, it will power off. From there just reboot aircraft. :)

Will the gimbal stop / aircraft power down if gimbal held and wanting to move by its motors ?
Unless more recent gimbals / aircraft do this, then there is a great risk to the gimbal, especially doing it often as one might for filters changing in / out for flights.

For NDs one can hold the filter in front of the powered up aircraft point out somewhere to replicate general flight level, check settings quickly for the magic shutter double the frame rate, if it needs a lesser or greater ND, repeat until happy with this . . . I recommend powering down to fit it though, pushing on filters and holding gimbal steady when aircraft is powered up isn't recommended at all.

For PLs, as a first fit, hold the filter in your fingers, point towards the most likely direction you want to (think you will) fly, dial it keeping the frame steady, then fit that way.
It should be close enough.
Can be fitted then before powering up aircraft, and let it calibrate with the filter on.
 
Will the gimbal stop / aircraft power down if gimbal held and wanting to move by its motors ?
Unless more recent gimbals / aircraft do this, then there is a great risk to the gimbal, especially doing it often as one might for filters changing in / out for flights.

For NDs one can hold the filter in front of the powered up aircraft point out somewhere to replicate general flight level, check settings quickly for the magic shutter double the frame rate, if it needs a lesser or greater ND, repeat until happy with this . . . I recommend powering down to fit it though, pushing on filters and holding gimbal steady when aircraft is powered up isn't recommended at all.

For PLs, as a first fit, hold the filter in your fingers, point towards the most likely direction you want to (think you will) fly, dial it keeping the frame steady, then fit that way.
It should be close enough.
Can be fitted then before powering up aircraft, and let it calibrate with the filter on.
My aircraft did not power down and I held the camera gimbal as steady and straight as possible and immediately got a warning. When I made the filter adjustment and set the aircraft down on level ground the gimbal self adjusted (I believe, at least it looked straight) and the warning disappeared from the screen and everything appeared to be ok. I like your approach for both ND and PL! Thanks!
 
Will the gimbal stop / aircraft power down if gimbal held and wanting to move by its motors ?
Unless more recent gimbals / aircraft do this, then there is a great risk to the gimbal, especially doing it often as one might for filters changing in / out for flights.
Clarification, The gimbal itself will power down to avoid damaging the motors...DJI has done this for many years, so nothing new on them. Same thing will happen if the gimbal is in grass on power up. It will warn of gimbal issues, then drop power to gimbal motors if it determines overload, then a reboot/ power up of whole drone will be needed to pass next gimbal sequence test (This maybe that it will time out now....and then self start on a check moments later..never checked). I don't know how long it lets you fiddle with it till it powers down, but I know many photographers that diddle with PL's while drone is powered up and have no issues. I have never used nor see a need for a PL on a drone, but to each their own, I go nowhere near water (At least overflight :p)

I use rule of thirds, and if it's that big of a deal to get the ground exposed better, I will take sky out of frame. :)
 
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Clarification, The gimbal itself will power down to avoid damaging the motors...DJI has done this for many years, so nothing new on them. Same thing will happen if the gimbal is in grass on power up. It will warn of gimbal issues, then drop power to gimbal motors if it determines overload, then a reboot/ power up of whole drone will be needed to pass next gimbal sequence test (This maybe that it will time out now....and then self start on a check moments later..never checked). I don't know how long it lets you fiddle with it till it powers down, but I know many photographers that diddle with PL's while drone is powered up and have no issues. I have never used nor see a need for a PL on a drone, but to each their own, I go nowhere near water (At least overflight :p)
So just working with an ND4, 8, or 16 should work just fine without complicating the issue with PL,s?
 
Clarification, The gimbal itself will power down to avoid damaging the motors...DJI has done this for many years, so nothing new on them. Same thing will happen if the gimbal is in grass on power up. It will warn of gimbal issues, then drop power to gimbal motors if it determines overload, then a reboot/ power up of whole drone will be needed to pass next gimbal sequence test (This maybe that it will time out now....and then self start on a check moments later..never checked). I don't know how long it lets you fiddle with it till it powers down, but I know many photographers that diddle with PL's while drone is powered up and have no issues. I have never used nor see a need for a PL on a drone, but to each their own, I go nowhere near water (At least overflight :p)

Ok, wasn't aware of the gimbal motor power down.
I've never noticed it fighting me back when I tried that early on fitting / changing filters.

There have been quite a lot of cases here on the forum where people have damaged gimbals leaving the clamp on (especially new pilots).
I did it with my M1P years ago.
The gimbal obstructed message, oh shoot !
Fly it back and too late.

Turning it over and playing with fitting a filter seems too risky to me.
I don't use PLs as a rule, have a C-PL and don't think it is really that useful.
The NDs I can look at the sky now and pick one that works, and it's definitely different for DJIs range of aircraft . . . some might find an ND8 works on their Air2, a mini2 might use and ND16 for same result.
 
So just working with an ND4, 8, or 16 should work just fine without complicating the issue with PL,s?
Never used a 4, but I use a 8 and 16 quite a bit. 32 for snow and bright sand. A PL can reduce glare over water, so should not be ruled out, but should only be put on for that shot(s) only, then removed, or could jeopardize next shots IMHO.
 
Ok, wasn't aware of the gimbal motor power down.
I've never noticed it fighting me back when I tried that early on fitting / changing filters.

There have been quite a lot of cases here on the forum where people have damaged gimbals leaving the clamp on (especially new pilots).
I did it with my M1P years ago.
The gimbal obstructed message, oh shoot !
Fly it back and too late.

Turning it over and playing with fitting a filter seems too risky to me.
I don't use PLs as a rule, have a C-PL and don't think it is really that useful.
The NDs I can look at the sky now and pick one that works, and it's definitely different for DJIs range of aircraft . . . some might find an ND8 works on their Air2, a mini2 might use and ND16 for same result.
Thanks everyone! I think I will just stick to the ND,s. I still have a lot to learn and the weather is just starting to cooperate so I want to have a lot of flying ahead and not repairs!
 

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