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Proper ND filters and settings

It is a matter of taste to a degree. Polarised for when you wish to reduce glare from reflections and to add more pop to clouds. But only when at or around a 90deg angle to the Sun. As for multi coated glass, this may help reduce internal glare from the filter itself which is always a good thing. I already have a set of standard ND's and a circular polariser. And now have on order a set of the Cinema Series polarised ND's.
It's about choosing a filter that's right for the conditions at that moment in time, to give you the effect you're seeking. And this may be a totally different look that everyone else is seeking...
Thanks.
In the interest of a NonProtographer and to minimize gear, what is your opinion of the following?:
FILTERS FOR DJI MAVIC 6 PACK
 
What is recommended then, PL or non-PL, multi-coat or non-multi-coat or is it a matter of taste?
ND Filters will lower shutter speed while leaving color neutral.
ND/PL Filters will lower shutter speed and also reduce glare and increase color saturation (so they alter the color profile a bit)

Some people prefer to shoot ND only, some enjoy the benefits of the ND/PL. I shoot with our ND8/PL and ND16/PL a lot of the time because I like the increased color saturation and reduced glare.
Here is an example of what the ND/PL's look like:

-Jeff
 
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in ur case.. ok.. you'll make money with those footage.. but for amatorial / hobbyist 150$ just for filters.. way too much! as u said probably some cheap but still ok filters will make it still acceptable
The Cinema Series Filters are for pilots who demand the best optics.
We also have some less expensive filter options starting at $49.99 for the Mavic :)
DJI Mavic Filter 3-Pack

Let me know if you have any questions on them,
-Jeff
 
Can you order PP filters individually?
 
ND Filters will lower shutter speed while leaving color neutral.
ND/PL Filters will lower shutter speed and also reduce glare and increase color saturation (so they alter the color profile a bit)

Some people prefer to shoot ND only, some enjoy the benefits of the ND/PL. I shoot with our ND8/PL and ND16/PL a lot of the time because I like the increased color saturation and reduced glare.
Here is an example of what the ND/PL's look like:

-Jeff

ND Filters tend to have a color cast, the good ones have almost none. Has anyone done any measurements on Taco, PolarPro and DJI ND filters?
I think ND filters should be applicable more often than the ND/PL filters. The problem with polarizers is that they need to be oriented properly as their effect drastically changes as they are turned.
 
ND Filters tend to have a color cast, the good ones have almost none. Has anyone done any measurements on Taco, PolarPro and DJI ND filters?
I think ND filters should be applicable more often than the ND/PL filters. The problem with polarizers is that they need to be oriented properly as their effect drastically changes as they are turned.

Yes ND/PLs need to be oriented and take a bit longer to set up than ND's but I personally like the way they look so I go through the extra steps to get the glare reduction and increased color saturation and contrast.

I am not sure about the others but our filters should have zero color cast :)

-Jeff
 
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Thanks.
In the interest of a NonProtographer and to minimize gear, what is your opinion of the following?:
FILTERS FOR DJI MAVIC 6 PACK
It appears to be a nice complete set. Similar to the PolarPro sets available. Both would be down to a matter of preference. You cover pretty much all bases with a set like the one you linked. I use PolarPro as their customer service including after sales is by far second to none from my own experience.
 
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I'm also trying to decide which filter to buy.
From what I understand there is no filter you could leave permanently on. The idea of using an ND filter is to reduce the amount of light that passes through the lens in order to control the shutter speeds.

You will have to select the ND filter based on how bright is the moment you 'll flight.

PolarPro and a few others allow you to leave on. I ALWAYS have my ND8 on as a protector and because, if I decide to launch, I'm good to go! ND16 IF the sun ever comes out!


Sent from my iPad using MavicPilots
 
Yes ND/PLs need to be oriented and take a bit longer to set up than ND's but I personally like the way they look so I go through the extra steps to get the glare reduction and increased color saturation and contrast.

I am not sure about the others but our filters should have zero color cast :)

-Jeff

Jeff, I have a question about orientation of the polarized filters. I saw you have a video about it which is great. I will try to follow it. But once I have found the perfect orientation once does that mean it will always be that orientation? Or do I need to sort it out each time?

Because if it's just the once I will put a little mark at the top of the filter so I can easily put it on the right way each time.
 
Jeff, I have a question about orientation of the polarized filters. I saw you have a video about it which is great. I will try to follow it. But once I have found the perfect orientation once does that mean it will always be that orientation? Or do I need to sort it out each time?
Because if it's just the once I will put a little mark at the top of the filter so I can easily put it on the right way each time.

Here is my rule of thumb when I film:
If I am on a big shoot where my videos need to be perfect: I will orient the polarizer for each shot. So I will send the drone up, get the shot, bring it back down and orient it for the next shot. This is if it needs to be perfect.

If I am just flying around where I want it to look good but does not need to be perfect:
I orient it once before take off and fly around.

Also note, the orientation changes depending on the suns position in the sky, so marking it would not be very helpful, unless you flew at high noon every time.

Let me know if you have any other questions,

Jeff
 
Ordered myself the TACO-RC Snap on Multi-Coating MC ND filters set 6-pack (UV/ND4/8/16/32/64) yesterday afternoon. Even with no sun in the sky the footage is too bright without postprocessing. No offense to the PolarPro's, I just went for the lightest ones. Have had PolarPro's for my GoPro hero3+ under my Phantom2 and was happy with them.

Happy Flying
Brewsky
 
Hello all, where is this video? I would like to know how is this positioning procedure done. I just got my Vivid series and did not know they needed a certain position. Thanks

Sent from my SM-G935F using MavicPilots mobile app

Just hold the filter with your thumb and index finger, look through it from the back side and rotate a half a turn back and forth. Look for darkening in the sky, popping of clouds or for reflections being lessened. You'll see the difference and know where you need to have it rotated. Put it on the lens in that position and you're good to go.
 
Yes ND/PLs need to be oriented and take a bit longer to set up than ND's but I personally like the way they look so I go through the extra steps to get the glare reduction and increased color saturation and contrast.

I am not sure about the others but our filters should have zero color cast :)

-Jeff
Hello all,
Any tips about how are these PL filters oriented? Just received my Vivid Collection and was not aware orientation was needed for best results. Any video on this procedure? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G935F using MavicPilots mobile app
 
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I know that handheld cameras also benefit from ND filters for long exposures, moving water and "softening" jittery video, but I cant figure out why simple electronics cant achieve the same goal. ISO 100 as a bottom limit is arbitrary (I remember using ASA 25 Kodachrome film!) and lower ISO values, essentially reduction of gain, would allow slower shutter speeds for the same cumulative light capture. One of you camera wonks out there explain to me why we need ND filters at all and we dont have ISO values that can drop to 10 or 25, skipping all the hardware issues and lens quality degradation.
 
Hello all,
Any tips about how are these PL filters oriented? Just received my Vivid Collection and was not aware orientation was needed for best results. Any video on this procedure? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G935F using MavicPilots mobile app

I answered your original question in the post directly above this most recent question. You must have deleted it as it's no longer there, but the answer is.
 
I know that handheld cameras also benefit from ND filters for long exposures, moving water and "softening" jittery video, but I cant figure out why simple electronics cant achieve the same goal. ISO 100 as a bottom limit is arbitrary (I remember using ASA 25 Kodachrome film!) and lower ISO values, essentially reduction of gain, would allow slower shutter speeds for the same cumulative light capture. One of you camera wonks out there explain to me why we need ND filters at all and we dont have ISO values that can drop to 10 or 25, skipping all the hardware issues and lens quality degradation.

Good question. AFAIK, sensors have a native ISO where the best performance can be expected. Both increasing or decreasing ISO lowers the image quality. Best image quality approach is to reduce the amount of light with an ND filter (video cameras have built-ins) or by reducing the aperture (Mavic has fixed aperture). If Mavic had "pull" ISO values (lower than native, lower image quality) the common advice would be to avoid it and use ND filters instead :).
 
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