The pano modes on any DJI drone will tend to fix the exposure on one part of the image, thus the best scene to shoot would be a evenly lit one. If on a sunset/sunrise the drone will tend to pick the exposure setting on the first shot, and hold it through the series. Thus, either parts directly towards the sun will odds are be over exposed, in most cases horribly. If the drone happens to pick the exposure for the brightest parts of the scene, then you will see a lot of noise in the shadows. Staying in A mode in my experience will not make any difference as the drone seems to lock the exposure on the first image and holds it for the entire sequence. So it will get parts of the image in good exposure and others parts will not workout well unless the scene has very even lighting. So for sunsets, sunrises, or anything with a a lot of bright and shadow areas, the auto pano mode can only do so much.
Things to consider:
1. Pick an exposure for brightest in M Mode and kick off the series, when complete, do another series to allow the shadows to be better exposed. If the drone is hovering without much yaw error, odds are the two panos will line up very close and can be layered over each other in photoshop, then you can pick the best of each image.
2. Consider allowing the pano to include raw files, the pano mode will shoot both, but the output from the drone will only be on the jpgs. You will have a lot more workable image in the raw files. More work, especially if you do a huge 360 or 180, but not too much for a typical 9 shot pano.
3. Even if the drone slightly yaws in hover a M 2 Pro should not yaw enough that you can align the two panos in Photoshop or similar program in post.
Paul C
