It says the exposure is manual, I thought it was on Auto, I must check that tomorrow.
Scene Type - Directly photographed
Exposure Mode - Manual
White Balance - Auto
Exposure mode was manual, not focus.
It says the exposure is manual, I thought it was on Auto, I must check that tomorrow.
Scene Type - Directly photographed
Exposure Mode - Manual
White Balance - Auto
It's not a mirrorless or DSLR camera....just not made for portrait type photography...I wouldn't expect much better from itDid you view the photo in full size? The boy is the main subject and he is way out of focus.
The mini 3 pro has an impressive camera given its limitations, and it can do far better than this.
It's got nothing to do with the camera and it can do better.It's not a mirrorless or DSLR camera....just not made for portrait type photography...I wouldn't expect much better from it
Try shooting a proper drone photo rather than using the drone for portraits at a distance of only a metre.Thank you for that. I will try again tomorrow. That is excellent advice. Many thanks, I will get my head round this with help.
Hi, what drew me to doing this was I was tesing the camera out with my kids playing football and the photos were terrible. They were not portraits, just them playing.It's a focus error. The grass behind the person is sharp.
The cameras AF has automatically chosen a focus point on the grass. You should have tapped on the screen on the boys head to let the AF focus on it. There is no indication that there is anything wrong with the camera.
The minimum focus distance for the camera is 1 meter.
Hi, what drew me to doing this was I was tesing the camera out with my kids playing football and the photos were terrible. They were not portraits, just them playing.
I have taken test photos at 1.5m which was the closest I could get to the subject and went all the way back to 7m. I have uploaded 1.5m, 2m, 3m, 4m, and 5m to flickr. I made sure to tap the screen each time on the print being held. It clearly isn't focusing. Even by cheap phone quality these are terrible.
I am not expecting apsc quality from a sensor that is less than a fith of that size, but I am expecting the camera to have the capacity to focus on a subject. I don't think that is being unreasonable.
Either there is a fault with the camera, or it is incapable of being used for anything other than landscape photography. I will contact dji to see what they have to say.
Also a FStop of 1.6 didn’t help you depth of field any.Thank you for that. I will try again tomorrow. That is excellent advice. Many thanks, I will get my head round this with help.
I can't see what you are complaining about.Even by cheap phone quality these are terrible.
I am not expecting apsc quality from a sensor that is less than a fith of that size, but I am expecting the camera to have the capacity to focus on a subject. I don't think that is being unreasonable.
Either there is a fault with the camera, or it is incapable of being used for anything other than landscape photography. I will contact dji to see what they have to say.
Mini 3 doesn't have a variable aperture and the tiny sensor gives an enormous DOF. Not sure what exactly the Mini 3 Pro's hyperfocal distance is, but I would imagine it's about 15 feet out to infinity.Also a FStop of 1.6 didn’t help you depth of field any.
The bit that still is baffling me is the EXIF data keeps saying manual exposure mode despite the control saying shutter and ISO are on auto.
I know. @BobaFut has also pointed out the shots were very underexposed, but the iso and shutter speed are on Auto. Strange the photo shot in the living room has good, exposure.Exposure and focus are entirely different things. Exposure has to do with the amount of light reaching the sensor; it has nothing to do with focus.
The outdoor shots are a recipe for AE to underexpose. At the risk of oversimplifying, the camera wants big areas of white to be gray and prioritizes that over pretty much everything. So the sensor will see white clouds and say "those should be gray so I will compensate for that by lowering the exposure," which is a problem in a high contrast scene like an overcast day when the sun is high. This is where a histogram comes in handy, because it gives you an "objective" view of the scene that isn't biased by your screen brightness settings.I know. @BobaFut has also pointed out the shots were very underexposed, but the iso and shutter speed are on Auto. Strange the photo shot in the living room has good, exposure.
The reason for the portrait was to try and see what I was doing wrong and why I couldn't get a sharp image. With some help that problem has been solved, thanks.If you want a close-up of your son, maybe back the drone away from him and use the zoom feature to get "close" providing the other settings are looked @ as suggested by other posters.
Is there a way to set the screen brightness on the RC control so it gives an accurate rendition of what it will show on my computer, when my son hasn't messed with the brightness level on my computer.The outdoor shots are a recipe for AE to underexpose. At the risk of oversimplifying, the camera wants big areas of white to be gray and prioritizes that over pretty much everything. So the sensor will see white clouds and say "those should be gray so I will compensate for that by lowering the exposure," which is a problem in a high contrast scene like an overcast day when the sun is high. This is where a histogram comes in handy, because it gives you an "objective" view of the scene that isn't biased by your screen brightness settings.
Is there a way to set the screen brightness on the RC control so it gives an accurate rendition of what it will show on my computer, when my son hasn't messed with the brightness level on my computer.
Force of habit. I used to do a lot more post processing with files, but not so much these days.One more thing, Why do you take RAW files, if you use Photoshop only to convert them to JPG. This has no sense. Each camera give you the choice of making JPG files, which are post processed by the camera itself and they are much better than RAW files without any post processing. Taking RAW files have sense only if you know or believe that your manual post processing in Photoshop will give better results than auto optimizing JPG by the camera
The boy's face is soft and slightly out of focus. The grass is sharp. Thus, I think you have a problem with the depth of field. Try the same shot again but take one or two steps back. You seem to be too close for even a wide angle lens depth of field capability.I took this photo to see what the quality is like. I am shocked how bad it is. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
DJI_0013 by William Heron, on Flickr
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