What's the point of JPEG in Mavic 2 Series?

[Lit Gimbal]

Hey everyone! I'm a new pilot and I have a M2Z. When I take photos, raw looks good, but JPEG is just a no. What's it there for? Any of advanced photo modes like super res., hdr, hyperlight automatically switch to jpeg. Why is that? Am I not getting something?
Also, how do you collapse the background using the optical lens on M2Z? It's called background compression, few youtubers talked about it, -- I want to try it out as well.
Cheers!

EDIT: I really messed up defining what I mean. All the JPEG files are great (looking on PC) and way more than perfect (Super Res., Hyperlight, HDR, various Panoramas, etc). The issue is the raw (DNG) pictures which look way too pixelated on my computer. I might be not clear on something. What do professionals and others use to color correct their photos with DaVinci and other platforms: JPEG or RAW? Is RAW bad at the beginning and then you can unveil the true potential encoded in the file using color grading tools (can my comp. be incapable of displaying the raw files?)? Is JPEG enough for everyday use? What if you're going to do some commercial work (like DroneBase's client missions), -- is, for example, HDR alright with them? The parallax effect I'm talking about is where you focus on a static object and circle around it focusing on that object and making the background "spin". I have heard it's only achievable when you have an optical lens like ones on Inspire 2 and M2Z (it kind of separates the object from its background)? If I'm wrong, correct me, please. Thank you to all who are ready to help newbies like me!

 

[BD0G]

I used to use jpeg + raw when shooting as Windows has the ability to allow one to view the jpeg image files natively. With DJI's photo naming convention it was simpler to view the jpeg files within file explorer and then correlate them with the file naming of the dng/raw file.

This saved time as I did not have to guess at which raw file was which. The jpeg and raw files would share the same file name with a different file extension. So for example a quick view of dji_0134.jpg allowed me to identify this


and know that dji_0134.dng was the raw file with the same image captured.

I have since installed a program that allows one to view the dng/raw files within Windows Explorer.

Some people dont want or need to open a full fleged image editor to manipulate a dng/raw file and so jpg images are just fine for thier purposes.

 

[sar104]

Hey everyone! I'm a new pilot and I have a M2Z. When I take photos, raw looks good, but JPEG is just a no. What's it there for? Any of advanced photo modes like super res., hdr, hyperlight automatically switch to jpeg. Why is that? Am I not getting something?

Those advanced modes comprise multiple images processed in the camera. They could probably be kept as 16-bit encoding rather than 8-bit, but they would not be raw images.

Also, how do you collapse the background using the optical lens on M2Z? It's called background compression, few youtubers talked about it, -- I want to try it out as well.
Cheers!

Do you mean dolly zoom - where you fly backwards and zoom in to keep the subject a constant size while magnifying the background?

 

[brett8883]

Hey everyone! I'm a new pilot and I have a M2Z. When I take photos, raw looks good, but JPEG is just a no. What's it there for? Any of advanced photo modes like super res., hdr, hyperlight automatically switch to jpeg. Why is that? Am I not getting something?

Raw files take a lot of processing power and RAM to combine multiple images into a composite DNG. It’s just a hardware limitation.

 

[Meta4]

Hey everyone! I'm a new pilot and I have a M2Z. When I take photos, raw looks good, but JPEG is just a no. What's it there for?

Even the most expensive top level Nikon and Canon SLRs give you the option of shooting jpg (and produce superb jpg images).
Jpg is there because it's all most photographers need, most of the time.
Lots of folks don't have software capable of manipulating raw images or the experience to do it.

 

[Lit Gimbal]

Those advanced modes comprise multiple images processed in the camera. They could probably be kept as 16-bit encoding rather than 8-bit, but they would not be raw images.



Do you mean dolly zoom - where you fly backwards and zoom in to keep the subject a constant size while magnifying the background?

The parallax effect is what it's called. You cannot get this with the Pro version, that's why it's interesting to me. Thank you for reply you all!

 

[sar104]

The parallax effect is what it's called. You cannot get this with the Pro version, that's why it's interesting to me. Thank you for reply you all!

Parallax is completely different, at least in its scientific meaning. It's the apparent relative motion of objects at different distances due to motion of the observer normal to the line of sight.

 

[brett8883]

I used to use jpeg + raw when shooting as Windows has the ability to allow one to view the jpeg image files natively. With DJI's photo naming convention it was simpler to view the jpeg files within file explorer and then correlate them with the file naming of the dng/raw file.

This saved time as I did not have to guess at which raw file was which. The jpeg and raw files would share the same file name with a different file extension. So for example a quick view at dji_0134.jpg allowed me to identify this
View attachment 67679

and know that dji_0134.dng was the raw file with the same image captured.

I have since installed a program that allows one to view the dng/raw files within Windows Explorer.

Some people dont want or need to open a full fleged image editor to manipulate a dng/raw file and so jpg images are just fine for thier purposes.

That’s brilliant didn’t even think of that! My Mac does veiw .DNGs natively but even then it’s still excruciating for someone like me with terrible ADHD because it takes a few seconds to render the preview.

 

[brett8883]

Parallax is completely different, at least in its scientific meaning. It's the apparent relative motion of objects at different distances due to motion of the observer normal to the line of sight.

It’s kinda similar though cause a zoom lens is changing your field of view. With dolly zoom you are physically changing the distance between subject and camera while counteracting the change in distance with a change in FOV.

 

[sar104]

It’s kinda similar though cause a zoom lens is changing your field of view. With dolly zoom you are physically changing the distance between subject and camera while counteracting the change in distance with a change in FOV.
View attachment 67755

Not really. Dolly zoom involves changing the observer position along the line of sight and zooming to compensate. Parallax changes the observer position normal to the line of sight and has nothing to do with zoom. That's about as different as it gets.

 

[Harro]

" What do professionals and others use to color correct their photos with DaVinci and other platforms..."
Remember RAW and Jpeg are still images, so you wont use Davinci to edit them, you will use Photoshop or an equivalent. RAW is uncompressed and contains a lot of data, hence large files. Jpeg is a compressed format, so some data is lost so reducing the file size. How heavily the file is compressed will determine its size.

 

[Francoisvdm]

" What do professionals and others use to color correct their photos with DaVinci and other platforms..."
Remember RAW and Jpeg are still images, so you wont use Davinci to edit them, you will use Photoshop or an equivalent. RAW is uncompressed and contains a lot of data, hence large files. Jpeg is a compressed format, so some data is lost so reducing the file size. How heavily the file is compressed will determine its size.

I use Adobe Lightroom to edit raw images.

 

[Cymruflyer]

I think the OP is talking about the demo shots you see in the DJI Zoom commercial where they have zoomed in and then rotate around a person. The only way to get such a shot to use a very low f stop, and a long zoom of the lens. The very low f-stop gives you the shallowest depth of field, which means the least amount of things in a straight line, are in focus. So, lets just give an example, for those not into or not yet understanding basic photography.

Now... what I am about to describe is ONLY for helping someone to understand how things work, it is not meant to be taken literally, regarding the distances or things actually in focus and it varies depending on the focal length of the lens being used, and to what really is in focus at different f-stops. Everyone understand that? Right, lets get on with the description for you then.

Let us say we line up 31 match sticks, standing up at, for arguments sake, an inch apart. As stated, this is just as an example here, this is not exactly what is or is not in focus. We set the lens at f11 and look at the line of matchsticks and focus on the one in the middle, which means there will be 15 stick in front, and 15 sticks behind that one we focused on in the middle.

Now, at f11 if we focus the camera on the one in the middle, we would have , for arguments sake, 13 in various stages of focus in front of that middle one and 13 in various stages of focus behind that middle stick. The closer to the middle stick, the sharper the images of all the other sticks are, with maybe no noticeable difference from, again for demo purposes only, about 9 sticks away from the middle one you focused on, both in front and in back of that middle one.

Now, at say f5.6 you may only be getting 7 in focus behind and in front of that middle stick, again with varying amounts of sharpness, getting sharper as you look closer to the middle stick. So now maybe we only see 5 each side of the middle stick looking the same sharpness. Again this is only for demo purposes, this does not mean it really is this amount of sticks.

Now we move to an f2.8 aperture setting on the camera, so the lens is now wide open. We again focus on that middle stick, but now we may only be getting 3 sticks in front and behind appearing to be sharp, and again, getting that variation of sharpness from less to most, at the middle stick. At f2.8 we may only be seeing 1 or 2 sticks in front and behind the middle stick looking sharp, with the sharpest stick being the middle one you focused on. This is called depth of field and it (the distance in front and behind the object you focused on) will vary depending on what f-stop you used, and the distance the camera is from the subject focused on.

One more point to make here, the longer the focal length of the lens, that is the greater the zoom, the greater the depth of field effect will be when using a low aperture. Use a wide angle lens for example, at any f-stop, and you will never get the effect we are describing here. Use a longer lens like 150mm plus, and the greater the effect will be seen.

Now you have an understanding of what is in focus and what is out of focus to the eye of the observer. We then put a person on a mountain peak and zoom in on that person with a high aperture of again f11 and fly around that person in a circle. The background will appear less blurred, focus wise, at the higher aperture so the person will not be as defined against the background. If we do the same thing, and this time use f2.8 as an aperture, we will see a sharp person but a very out of focus background. Also, as the camera is flown around that person in a circle, the background will seem to really move past them behind, at a much greater speed.

This is the effect that I believe the OP was speaking of and wondering how you get that look. I don't think he was meaning the old "Alfred Hitchcock dolly zoom" effect Hitchcock created in a few of his films, which the Mavic 2 Zoom is capable of doing, which is a very different setup and exercise all together. I hope I have understood the OP correctly here, otherwise I just wasted several minutes of my life, for nothing, I shall never be able to get back.

 

[Personal Drone Repair]

I think the OP is talking about the demo shots you see in the DJI Zoom commercial where they have zoomed in and then rotate around a person. The only way to get such a shot to use a very low f stop, and a long zoom of the lens. The very low f-stop gives you the shallowest depth of field, which means the least amount of things in a straight line, are in focus. So, lets just give an example, for those not into or not yet understanding basic photography.

Now... what I am about to describe is ONLY for helping someone to understand how things work, it is not meant to be taken literally, regarding the distances or things actually in focus and it varies depending on the focal length of the lens being used, and to what really is in focus at different f-stops. Everyone understand that? Right, lets get on with the description for you then.

Let us say we line up 31 match sticks, standing up at, for arguments sake, an inch apart. As stated, this is just as an example here, this is not exactly what is or is not in focus. We set the lens at f11 and look at the line of matchsticks and focus on the one in the middle, which means there will be 15 stick in front, and 15 sticks behind that one we focused on in the middle.

Now, at f11 if we focus the camera on the one in the middle, we would have , for arguments sake, 13 in various stages of focus in front of that middle one and 13 in various stages of focus behind that middle stick. The closer to the middle stick, the sharper the images of all the other sticks are, with maybe no noticeable difference from, again for demo purposes only, about 9 sticks away from the middle one you focused on, both in front and in back of that middle one.

Now, at say f5.6 you may only be getting 7 in focus behind and in front of that middle stick, again with varying amounts of sharpness, getting sharper as you look closer to the middle stick. So now maybe we only see 5 each side of the middle stick looking the same sharpness. Again this is only for demo purposes, this does not mean it really is this amount of sticks.

Now we move to an f2.8 aperture setting on the camera, so the lens is now wide open. We again focus on that middle stick, but now we may only be getting 3 sticks in front and behind appearing to be sharp, and again, getting that variation of sharpness from less to most, at the middle stick. At f2.8 we may only be seeing 1 or 2 sticks in front and behind the middle stick looking sharp, with the sharpest stick being the middle one you focused on. This is called depth of field and it (the distance in front and behind the object you focused on) will vary depending on what f-stop you used, and the distance the camera is from the subject focused on.

One more point to make here, the longer the focal length of the lens, that is the greater the zoom, the greater the depth of field effect will be when using a low aperture. Use a wide angle lens for example, at any f-stop, and you will never get the effect we are describing here. Use a longer lens like 150mm plus, and the greater the effect will be seen.

Now you have an understanding of what is in focus and what is out of focus to the eye of the observer. We then put a person on a mountain peak and zoom in on that person with a high aperture of again f11 and fly around that person in a circle. The background will appear less blurred, focus wise, at the higher aperture so the person will not be as defined against the background. If we do the same thing, and this time use f2.8 as an aperture, we will see a sharp person but a very out of focus background. Also, as the camera is flown around that person in a circle, the background will seem to really move past them behind, at a much greater speed.

This is the effect that I believe the OP was speaking of and wondering how you get that look. I don't think he was meaning the old "Alfred Hitchcock dolly zoom" effect Hitchcock created in a few of his films, which the Mavic 2 Zoom is capable of doing, which is a very different setup and exercise all together. I hope I have understood the OP correctly here, otherwise I just wasted several minutes of my life, for nothing, I shall never be able to get back.

Great explanation and for what it is worth , I learned something from that .
Now on a lighter note . How cool would it be if someone lit the matches while filming ?

 

[Kilrah]

EDIT: I really messed up defining what I mean. All the JPEG files are great (looking on PC) and way more than perfect (Super Res., Hyperlight, HDR, various Panoramas, etc). The issue is the raw (DNG) pictures which look way too pixelated on my computer.

Looks like you're not opening the RAWs with appropriate software, and thus only seeing the small low res preview of it.

 

[Meta4]

EDIT: I really messed up defining what I mean. All the JPEG files are great ... The issue is the raw (DNG) pictures which look way too pixelated on my computer.
.. (can my comp. be incapable of displaying the raw files?)?

Unless you use specialised image manipulating software you can't open raw image files and all you'll see is the preview thumbnail jpg file that's inside the raw file.

Is JPEG enough for everyday use?

Despite common opinions to the contrary, jpg files are fine for everyday use and are probably all that most photographers would need, most of the time.

What if you're going to do some commercial work (like DroneBase's client missions), -- is, for example, HDR alright with them?

If you use the inbuilt HDR function, the results aren't very good.
If you shot 3 or 5 bracketed images and processed them in specialised HDR software, the results could be quite good (or not depending on how much you cook them).

 

[Lit Gimbal]

" What do professionals and others use to color correct their photos with DaVinci and other platforms..."
Remember RAW and Jpeg are still images, so you wont use Davinci to edit them, you will use Photoshop or an equivalent. RAW is uncompressed and contains a lot of data, hence large files. Jpeg is a compressed format, so some data is lost so reducing the file size. How heavily the file is compressed will determine its size.

You all guys thank you for taking time to help me. I really appreciate it.

 

[Lit Gimbal]

I think the OP is talking about the demo shots you see in the DJI Zoom commercial where they have zoomed in and then rotate around a person. The only way to get such a shot to use a very low f stop, and a long zoom of the lens. The very low f-stop gives you the shallowest depth of field, which means the least amount of things in a straight line, are in focus. So, lets just give an example, for those not into or not yet understanding basic photography.

Now... what I am about to describe is ONLY for helping someone to understand how things work, it is not meant to be taken literally, regarding the distances or things actually in focus and it varies depending on the focal length of the lens being used, and to what really is in focus at different f-stops. Everyone understand that? Right, lets get on with the description for you then.

Let us say we line up 31 match sticks, standing up at, for arguments sake, an inch apart. As stated, this is just as an example here, this is not exactly what is or is not in focus. We set the lens at f11 and look at the line of matchsticks and focus on the one in the middle, which means there will be 15 stick in front, and 15 sticks behind that one we focused on in the middle.

Now, at f11 if we focus the camera on the one in the middle, we would have , for arguments sake, 13 in various stages of focus in front of that middle one and 13 in various stages of focus behind that middle stick. The closer to the middle stick, the sharper the images of all the other sticks are, with maybe no noticeable difference from, again for demo purposes only, about 9 sticks away from the middle one you focused on, both in front and in back of that middle one.

Now, at say f5.6 you may only be getting 7 in focus behind and in front of that middle stick, again with varying amounts of sharpness, getting sharper as you look closer to the middle stick. So now maybe we only see 5 each side of the middle stick looking the same sharpness. Again this is only for demo purposes, this does not mean it really is this amount of sticks.

Now we move to an f2.8 aperture setting on the camera, so the lens is now wide open. We again focus on that middle stick, but now we may only be getting 3 sticks in front and behind appearing to be sharp, and again, getting that variation of sharpness from less to most, at the middle stick. At f2.8 we may only be seeing 1 or 2 sticks in front and behind the middle stick looking sharp, with the sharpest stick being the middle one you focused on. This is called depth of field and it (the distance in front and behind the object you focused on) will vary depending on what f-stop you used, and the distance the camera is from the subject focused on.

One more point to make here, the longer the focal length of the lens, that is the greater the zoom, the greater the depth of field effect will be when using a low aperture. Use a wide angle lens for example, at any f-stop, and you will never get the effect we are describing here. Use a longer lens like 150mm plus, and the greater the effect will be seen.

Now you have an understanding of what is in focus and what is out of focus to the eye of the observer. We then put a person on a mountain peak and zoom in on that person with a high aperture of again f11 and fly around that person in a circle. The background will appear less blurred, focus wise, at the higher aperture so the person will not be as defined against the background. If we do the same thing, and this time use f2.8 as an aperture, we will see a sharp person but a very out of focus background. Also, as the camera is flown around that person in a circle, the background will seem to really move past them behind, at a much greater speed.

This is the effect that I believe the OP was speaking of and wondering how you get that look. I don't think he was meaning the old "Alfred Hitchcock dolly zoom" effect Hitchcock created in a few of his films, which the Mavic 2 Zoom is capable of doing, which is a very different setup and exercise all together. I hope I have understood the OP correctly here, otherwise I just wasted several minutes of my life, for nothing, I shall never be able to get back.

Man, you made a difference! I now know how to use my Mavic 2 Zoom's a bit more. I really appreciate your time and effort. I'm glad there are people like you who are willing to help out. I am so pumped up to try this feature out. In addition, I'm also wondering on how do you use the spotlight mode in active track? The drone focuses its camera on the selected subject, and you can control it. The controls are messed up (when you right throttle u, the drone does not go straight, like usual). On YouTube I have not found any videos describing how to use spotlight on even 1st Mavic pro. I want to use it like Inspire 2 with its rotating camera. There are exceptions, but you might get close, but I don't know how. Thank you! God bless you