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Which one is better ? AEB to HDR on computer or RAW photo editing on computer for Mini 2 ?

Cotyoran52

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Hi friends,

I'm curious about which one is better about photo editing for Mini 2 ? I tried both, i mean i tried AEB (You know it is three photo from same side having different light thresholds) to HDR on computer with Photoshop like programs which resulted nice and editing RAW photo directly on Photoshop like programs. But, i don't know real difference between them.

Thank you for your comments...

This is photo i took yesterday from a lake; (First one is AEB to HDR edited on Photoshop, second one is RAW editing on Photoshop )

AEB screenshot.PNG


RAW screenshot.PNG
 
I like the results of AEB. It's color gambit can be over the top, or surreal looking sometimes though. RAW gives you a different kind of color control. It will depend on what your filming, when, and what results you desire. That's just my limited two cents.
 
I like the results of AEB. It's color gambit can be over the top, or surreal looking sometimes though. RAW gives you a different kind of color control. It will depend on what your filming, when, and what results you desire. That's just my limited two cents.
Yes, i think i agree so. On some photos i saw AEB to HDR seems better over RAW editing, in some photos RAW editing makes things better. Thank you !
 
Raw will give you more overall flexibility to include better control over white balance and exposure of a single shot. HDR will provide a greater dynamic range to work with as you can properly expose the highlights and the shadows in two different shots and blend them to get the benefits of both.
 
Yes, i work with Photoshop CC 2020. I can make both editing. Yes, RAW gives me more option to edit.. Thanks..
The limitations are in DJI's AEB which only offers +/- 0.7 EV on a 3 shot AEB, which is well within the latitude of a well exposed single DNG. Even the 5 shot AEB is still only -/- 1.4 EV at the extremes. What you really want is +/- 2 EV, or even +/-3EV at the two extremes in a DNG, where you have 2 stops of recovery available in both directions on each DNG. That only requires 3 DNG shots total, when one is at the 0 EV shot. However DNG shots take forever to shoot and save on DJI drones because of the much larger file size, leading to misaligned images on moving subjects. Therefore, shooting a fast 3 shot AEB in JPG, with a good exposure at neutral, will usually work best for those types of moving images, unlike your static shot.
 
Both are nice shots....AEB to HDR has more color and contrast compared to the second one shot in RAW. Editing the RAW a bit more you might be able to replicate the AEB and slightly better. I do have a question for you though because I don't use the AEB function on my Mavic 2 Pro. Can you use the AEB if it's windy or should it be relatively calm to use it ?
 
I shoot AEB raw then render an HDR raw in Lightroom which produces a RAW HDR photograph. it would be nice if u could expand the AEB exposure settings but with the Lightroom hdr raw, you’ll still have a pretty good dynamic range and then plenty of colour rendering possibilities. My recomendation is stay raw for as long as you can.
 
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Both are nice shots....AEB to HDR has more color and contrast compared to the second one shot in RAW. Editing the RAW a bit more you might be able to replicate the AEB and slightly better. I do have a question for you though because I don't use the AEB function on my Mavic 2 Pro. Can you use the AEB if it's windy or should it be relatively calm to use it ?

Yes, you can still use it in windy days. But, it won't be in full quality like normal days. HDR merger applications like Photoshop have option as "remove ghosts" which is exist for this kind of unstable shoots..
 
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more shadow/midtone detail in the RAW shot. The AEB shot is a bit muddier in the dark areas. Go with RAW.
 
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I shoot 5 raw AEB and edit with Aurora HDR plugin within Lightroom. I like the results -which can be further edited within the plugin - much better than Lightroom's HDR but I also will do a Batch on dozens of AEB shots from within the Aurora HDR app itself where I can batch them which saves a lot of time. Almost any shot with clouds can benefit from HDR but I just do it as a matter of course which is why I end up coming back with a big workload. My recent trip to Phoenix for some desert droning resulted in roughly 800GB of files....which I will start on in a few days when I take care of stuff that accumulated while gone.
 
I would shoot AEB saving the images as Raw. Then you have the option of either working with only one raw file (if it has enough dynamic range) or going to HDR if it doesn't.

In the scene you posted it looks like there's enough dynamic range in a single exposure, so the AEB has the advantage of giving you leeway in nailing the exact exposure even if you're just using a single image.

Also, the HDR could be processed differently to look more like the Raw image, if that's what you want. Less sharpening, less colour saturation (or whatever Photoshop calls those adjustments). I tend to prefer results more like the bottom image, while ending up with images more like the top because I over-process without noticing it until later — a bad habit I'm trying to break by processing an image over several days so I can look at it with fresher eyes after an edit.
 
Have you tried taking a shot in RAW and then processing a copy of it one stop over-exposed and one stop under exposed and then combining all three as an HDR? I've been meaning to give it a go with some sunset photos but I've been flat strap lately. I figure taking one shot and doing the above will negate any affect that wind has on moving clouds or tree foliage in the time it would take to take three separate photos.
 
Can you use the AEB if it's windy or should it be relatively calm to use it ?
If you are shooting AEB DNG's, the wind is less of a problem than a moving subject. The AEB DNG's take significantly longer to process than JPG's in between the individual AEB images, and chasing a fast moving subject like a boat or car will be problematic. So, it depends upon your subject.

The minor movement in wind is insignificant compared to the movement of a fast moving subject in between successive frames.
 
If you are shooting AEB DNG's, the wind is less of a problem than a moving subject. The AEB DNG's take significantly longer to process than JPG's in between the individual AEB images, and chasing a fast moving subject like a boat or car will be problematic. So, it depends upon your subject.

The minor movement in wind is insignificant compared to the movement of a fast moving subject in between successive frames.
Thank you for your input
 
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Yes, you can still use it in windy days. But, it won't be in full quality like normal days. HDR merger applications like Photoshop have option as "remove ghosts" which is exist for this kind of unstable shoots..
Thank you for your input....I've thought it should be relatively calm for the best possible shot...thank you again.
 
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