Basic Photography ....Please

[Porky]

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You can only do so much in MSPaint
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Oh you just cracked me up with laughter, great answer

 

[charliesRig]

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No post anything. Right off the card.View attachment 53185

 

[Porky]

View attachment 53202
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Yep agree that’s another nice photo, see that one earlier on this thread. But put that through post & it’ll be the dogs dangly bits just like the other photo

Remember what we said about before & after shots, could also apply to post.

Like what I said in one of my last post here the op might be interested what post can do also

 

[dannybgoode]

Aerial photography is no different to terrestrial photography so light, composition, subject matter etc are all important - much more important than getting bogged down in the technical details.

On the plus side any good book on photography will be a useful read as will any tutorials on the web - they do not need to be drone specific.

Just remember 90% of a good photo is the light.

 

[Cymruflyer]

Let's not forget composition as well, that is a great help in creating a "pleasing to the eye" image.

So to recap simply, the ISO allows you to be able to take photos in darker situations without using additional lighting, however, there are drawbacks.
Low ISO like 100 means very clear images, with very, very little grain (in film days) noise (in digital speak). So the photo is more clear with a lower ISO like 100. In film days we called it ASA for the film speed with the average being about 125 ASA.

Now go to 1,600 ISO and you can shoot in much darker looking (to the eye) lighting situations and the camera will make the image look brighter to you in the view finder. With that said, the image will also look more degraded, which means less clear, because when you zoom in on a section of the image, especially the darker areas, you will see a lot of grainy looking sections or noisy looking parts of that image, which generally give you a somewhat more obscured or slightly less clear looking, image.

Therefore if you come across a UFO at night, crank up the ISO as high as it will go, and come home with a viewable image of it, rather than say it is too dark, I won't shoot it. But of course you would not do that if you were taking a photo of your daughter at her wedding.

The way around poor light yet keeping a low ISO is to reduce the speed of the shutter, so that means keeping it open for a longer time to allow more light in. That also means that if you want to freeze any action, that will not be happening. Slower shutter speed means more light falling on the sensor for a brighter looking image but you won't be freezing action. Faster shutter speed means less light falling on the sensor but you are getting closer to freezing the action in motion. Shutter speed depends on two things, what you are trying to achieve and how much light you have to play with to get a satisfactory image.

 

[Porky]

Let's not forget composition as well, that is a great help in creating a "pleasing to the eye" image.

So to recap simply, the ISO allows you to be able to take photos in darker situations without using additional lighting, however, there are drawbacks.
Low ISO like 100 means very clear images, with very, very little grain (in film days) noise (in digital speak). So the photo is more clear with a lower ISO like 100. In film days we called it ASA for the film speed with the average being about 125 ASA.

Now go to 1,600 ISO and you can shoot in much darker looking (to the eye) lighting situations and the camera will make the image look brighter to you in the view finder. With that said, the image will also look more degraded, which means less clear, because when you zoom in on a section of the image, especially the darker areas, you will see a lot of grainy looking sections or noisy looking parts of that image, which generally give you a somewhat more obscured or slightly less clear looking, image.

Therefore if you come across a UFO at night, crank up the ISO as high as it will go, and come home with a viewable image of it, rather than say it is too dark, I won't shoot it. But of course you would not do that if you were taking a photo of your daughter at her wedding.

The way around poor light yet keeping a low ISO is to reduce the speed of the shutter, so that means keeping it open for a longer time to allow more light in. That also means that if you want to freeze any action, that will not be happening. Slower shutter speed means more light falling on the sensor for a brighter looking image but you won't be freezing action. Faster shutter speed means less light falling on the sensor but you are getting closer to freezing the action in motion. Shutter speed depends on two things, what you are trying to achieve and how much light you have to play with to get a satisfactory image.

Couldn’t be explained any simpler than that, beginners guide

Thanks for sharing.

 

[BD0G]

That photo kicks ***, brilliant but now show the op what it was like before post so he can get a better understanding of what the camera can actually do.

A before & after would be good for the op so that he can see what’s achievable with photo editing.

I’m learning the post side myself but it’s daunting when you see photos like that as a beginner & think it was taken as standard, how the camera caught it.

I’m not criticising & love your photo but the op might also be interested what post can actually do too.

Here is the image in .jpg format right out of the camera with the exposure set at 0.
The image in post was shot as a bracketed photo with 5 exposure. Then combined into a High Dynamic Range picture and adjusted.
Beluga Point Alaska is the location

 

[Porky]

Here is the image in .jpg format right out of the camera with the exposure set at 0.
The image in post was shot as a bracketed photo with 5 exposure. Then combined into a High Dynamic Range picture and adjusted.
Beluga Point Alaska is the location

Thank you so much for sharing the before photo. It’s suprising what can be achieved in post, I hope the OP will have some understanding now that your photo, brilliant as it is can’t be captured on it own.

It’s also an eye opener for me too.

Again thanks for sharing @BD0G

 

[BD0G]

I shoot 5 bracketed photos to capture all of the exposure possible. I shoot in RAW (DNG) so the image is "flat". Then combine those bracketed photos into a single HDR image and that way I can capture the detail in the shadows and bring the highlights down if necessary so the image does not appear "blown out" then adjust for color , saturation, level of HDR emphasis, etc.

Its all about processing the image in post as shooting RAW is a very blah image to begin with.