- Joined
- Feb 10, 2018
- Messages
- 8
- Reactions
- 4
- Age
- 67
Im a new M2 Pro owner and have read various recommendations as to the sharpest aperture to use for still photography with this drone.
Any suggestions/recommendations from experience would be greatly appreciated.
Great question! If you do a search on You Tube you can find a lot of useful and helpful information on the subject.
I think you'll find that a lot of people here recommend f4 as the sweet spot. I've done well @ f5.6. It's generally known that the lens does not perform well with apertures smaller than that. With this lens having such a huge depth of field, I have also had good results wide open @ f2.8.
Chris
Lower ISO, without ND filters if possible. My preference is lowest possible ISO first, any aperture before I have to out on a ND filter to maintain a low ISO. Finally I would prefer to be a bit under exposed rather then over exposed because once the detail is lost to being blown out you can't get it back but you didn't ask about that.
There is no perfect answer for the OPs question. It depends on what effect you want with the background, light, etc. I think its best to learn and practice with what effect aperture, shutter speed, ISO and EV all have on the resulting image. Lots of info out there just google and read up.
I use F4-F5.6 when possible as this is the known sweet spot, but there’s no magic. I recommend manual settings and experimenting a bit.
An nd filter reduces light therefore will require a higher iso. It will lower your shutter speed so if you want blurry noisy shots snap on the nd.Lower ISO, without ND filters if possible. My preference is lowest possible ISO first, any aperture before I have to out on a ND filter to maintain a low ISO. Finally I would prefer to be a bit under exposed rather then over exposed because once the detail is lost to being blown out you can't get it back but you didn't ask about that.
How does under exposing jive with ETTR (expose to the right)? My understanding is that by using ETTR the blacks and dark shades are better captured and the white and lighter colors can be handled in post processing.Lower ISO, without ND filters if possible. My preference is lowest possible ISO first, any aperture before I have to out on a ND filter to maintain a low ISO. Finally I would prefer to be a bit under exposed rather then over exposed because once the detail is lost to being blown out you can't get it back but you didn't ask about that.
You’re right it doesn’t.How does under exposing jive with ETTR (expose to the right)? My understanding is that by using ETTR the blacks and dark shades are better captured and the white and lighter colors can be handled in post processing.
While you shouldn’t overexpose under exposing and boosting it gives you more noise.There is detail in the whites that progressively gets destroyed if blown out. Kind of like pinning the mic in audio recording. You can boost a low signal in post but you can't fix a signal distorted by blowing it out. I would assume that ETTR wouldn't tell you to move to the right if you are blowing out detail in the bright areas.
I also shoot raw and do all adjustments off camera. I don't trust software to judge what I will like.
I just know what works for me and my workflow. People always develop their own over time.
Increasing ISO is basically the same as dragging the exposure slider to the right.I agree to a certain extent, but ISO is more related to sensor noise then slight under exposure. The noise is present but the higher ISO turns up the volume on that noise making it much more noticable. Photo in a black room with the only difference being ISO demonstrates how sever this can be.
Edited for clarity of exampl
I should have clarified....when I use ETTR I am referring to the histogram.....I will compose the shot so the graph is more to the right than left in the histogram. This comes from my DSLR experience.There is detail in the whites that progressively gets destroyed if blown out. Kind of like pinning the mic in audio recording. You can boost a low signal in post but you can't fix a signal distorted by blowing it out. I would assume that ETTR wouldn't tell you to move to the right if you are blowing out detail in the bright areas.
I also shoot raw and do all adjustments off camera. I don't trust software to judge what I will like.
I just know what works for me and my workflow. People always develop their own over time.
Though basically the same, one is tweaking the hardware and one is tweaking the raw file. I have a whole lot more options in post then I do on camera. So it a little bit of personal approach and preferences here. Not to mention there is still shutter speed and HDR captures to work with but that's just more things to make the whole convo more complex.Increasing ISO is basically the same as dragging the exposure slider to the right.
It’s an amplifier so yes increasing ISO will increase noise.
Take your low ISO black frame drag the exposure slider to the right.