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Best (long exposure) photosettings?

jonpetersen

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Hi all,

When taking aerial photo's in low light conditions (shutter speeds > 0,5 sec), is it best to use "lock gimbal while shooting" or will it work contra-productive?

And AFC, does that matter?

best

Jon
 
I'm looking into this as well. I've seen some really nice photos taken with long exposures.

One trick is, you need a ND filter. One guy on FB stated he uses an ND1000. After this crisis is over I'm going to order one and give it a try.
 
I'm looking into this as well. I've seen some really nice photos taken with long exposures.

One trick is, you need a ND filter. One guy on FB stated he uses an ND1000. After this crisis is over I'm going to order one and give it a try.
I am not sure why you would need an ND filter when the lighting conditions are already low light? ND filters are to slow movement of cars, clouds, water, but in low light, wouldn't you actually remove the ND filter?
 
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Maybe he was using the ND1000 to take pictures in daylight and give them a look like they were taken at night. Sort of like old films that give the impression of a night time scene, but you can still detect shadows from objects, like on the night of a full moon.
 
No. The ND filter is to allow you to take a long exposure and not over expose it.

Take a pick at 1 second and see how blown out it is. You can't fix that even with changing the fstop. To limit the amount of light you have to use an ND filter.

 
Hi, good discussion, but it's not an answer to my question... I want to make sharp photo's in the evening. So, what's the best setting to get a sharp photo when the shutterspeed is low (e.g. > 0,5 s). Lock gimbal while shooting?
 
Hi, good discussion, but it's not an answer to my question... I want to make sharp photo's in the evening. So, what's the best setting to get a sharp photo when the shutterspeed is low (e.g. > 0,5 s). Lock gimbal while shooting?
Hey Jon- My all time best teacher on the web is Vittorio (VIC VideopIC) who produces amazing teaching videos. I looked up his tape on ND filters for drone video and I think this might be worth looking at.
If you are looking for cinematic motion blur, you will want to use a filter that slows the shutter speed but not blurs the images. I think it is probably a trial and error . Start with the lower filters like 4ND or 8ND or 16 ND.Try to keep shutter speed around 0.5 second.
 
Hi, sorry, I'm afraid I did not formulate my question correct. My fault,

It's not about blurring the images. I just want to make photo's (not movies) in the evening which are as sharp as possible. So, if I lock the gimbal, will the photo be sharper compared to not-locking the gimball. IMHO I do think that a locked gimbal will result in a less sharpen picture because the drone moves a bit during the opening of the shutter, and the gimbal cannot compensate that because its locked.

So, again, many thanks for all information, but my original question is still open,

best!

Jon
 
Hi all,

When taking aerial photo's in low light conditions (shutter speeds > 0,5 sec), is it best to use "lock gimbal while shooting" or will it work contra-productive?

And AFC, does that matter?

best

Jon
Yes to lock gimbal while shooting and really would rather have it on all the time to tell you the truth.

It’s usually very difficult to auto focus in low light so it’s better to manually focus.
 
Yes to lock gimbal while shooting and really would rather have it on all the time to tell you the truth.

It’s usually very difficult to auto focus in low light so it’s better to manually focus.
Simple to go ahead and do a trial run taking shots with gimbal locked and gimbal unlocked. Try to adjust your settings looking at the screen and do a lot of test shots. Also try AEB Auto exposure bracket with and without looking gimbal. That is what I would do to find out. I have never flown at night so I am really no expert but I am good with a camera at ground level on a tripod.
 
AFC = Auto Focus Continuous
 
That's a very nice image. Do you recall the settings? All of our round about and cloverleafs are in restricted zones, near the main airport so I would really be afraid to put my M2P up in the dark there. Still a chicken regarding night flying.
Dale
Miami
 
Hi, no, I don't even have the original image I'm afraid... Probably 200-400 ISO and a shutterspeed between 0.5-4 secs. I was also impressed by the capabilities of that little Spark.
 
Hi, no, I don't even have the original image I'm afraid... Probably 200-400 ISO and a shutterspeed between 0.5-4 secs. I was also impressed by the capabilities of that little Spark.
Yeah- I would have guessed increasing the ISO at shutter of 0.5 second until image is acceptable. Do I lock or unlock gimbal? Where is that in the app. (I would guess under gimbal icon).
 
No in Photo settings. And I don't think the Spark has even te possibility to lock the gimbal. Now I do have a more powerfull MPP, but I'm still impressed by the handling and capabilities of my ol' Sparky.
 
Simple to go ahead and do a trial run taking shots with gimbal locked and gimbal unlocked. Try to adjust your settings looking at the screen and do a lot of test shots. Also try AEB Auto exposure bracket with and without looking gimbal. That is what I would do to find out. I have never flown at night so I am really no expert but I am good with a camera at ground level on a tripod.
Locking the gimbal refers to locking it onto the direction or scene. If you’ve even used an Osmo then this is the same thing as pulling the trigger on the Osmo.

I don’t need to test this because I know this is desirable when trying to get the sharpest photo and why it is turned on by default. The only reason you would want to turn this off is if you wanted intentional camera motion in your photo.

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