Yes, you should exchange it. I had this issue on my previous Mavic. The thing is the focus issue is not consistent. You may go into the store and find that it's working fine that day. The focus defect has to with the mechanical movement of the lens element. If can bind up such that the element tilts slightly. Other times the focusing is fine. That's what I saw with mine anyway. My new one does not have this issue. I would bring a sample video to the store like the one you shared with us and show them on your tablet or laptop.
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Yes, you should exchange it. I had this issue on my previous Mavic. The thing is the focus issue is not consistent. You may go into the store and find that it's working fine that day. The focus defect has to with the mechanical movement of the lens element. If can bind up such that the element tilts slightly. Other times the focusing is fine. That's what I saw with mine anyway. My new one does not have this issue. I would bring a sample video to the store like the one you shared with us and show them on your tablet or laptop.
Yes, the reason for that is that they were saved as level 12 jpegs.
I haven't compared full frame sizes but these were all captured from 100% displays.
The more detail that is in a picture the bigger the jpeg size need to be to record that detail. An extreme example might be a blank grey jpeg compared to a very complex scene. The grey one might be only a few k while the complex scene might be a meg or two. So the increased detail in the +3 means that jpeg will be bigger compared to the lesser-detailed -3.
This was filmed in 2.7K, None (+1, 0, 0). There's some pretty low light stuff at the end which doesn't get turned to mush (even after Youtubeisation). Bit grainy but I'm happy with it (no noise reduction in post either):
Monty Python
Monty Python
MavicNewb
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So i took some peoples advice and exchanged the drone locally at a retail DJI store within their 14 day return/exchange policy which would be a great amount faster than trying to send it into a repair facility. I will have to say the DJI store was not very professional as when i described to them that i had focus issues and that the bottom right corners are soft they spend 40mins taking photos with my drone and viewing the photos on a ipad mini and then trying to view the photos on a 1080p hp all in one pc and i told them you have to blow it up in photoshop to really see it. well long story short i nudge them a little bit and they agreed to exchange the drone for another one. Opened it up this afternoon and took some video footage and it seems clear corner to corner now. Now i just gotta deal with slow DJI customer care to return my emails asking them to switch over the DJI refresh agreement over to the new mavic pro serial number.
Check out the video in 4k coming off the brand new exchanged mavic pro. This video is unedited and didnt really dial in exposure or anything since it was about to rain and i wanted to take some photos and videos. Yes i know the photo that the sky is blown out.
Yes, that was exactly my point. One of the best indications of shot detail/quality is file size and your examples showcases that pretty well - further proving that negative sharpness is NOT the way to go.
I am having the same issue. My mavic is about a month old. Same water color look to the photos, especially trees.
It's all about the sharpening. +1 for low light, and 0 for good lighting. This has all been discussed in detail earlier in the thread.
I have tried this. I started shooting in just RAW with those settings to see if the quality is better. My video quality in 2.7k looks fine, it is the still photos that look really bad. Here are a couple samples.
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I've been reading a lot of comments about poor Jpeg compression on the Mavic. The lit up trees in my last post look like an oil painting zoomed in a bit.
Those samples are all pretty well lit, both contrast examples, where sharpening doesn't really kick in. Check out my posting earlier in the thread to see what happens in dim light.
Cannot shoot jpeg with the Mavic. It is worthless. This has been discussed over 9000 times in this thread.
They look fine to me. No focus falloff at the edges like some are reporting. At least not that I can see a web resolution.
What are HD sync images? I don't see any spot focus issues, but they do look like crap all over.
hello,
today i was out and here are my results.
trees are always really bad in the right corner.
not a good sharpness at all.
4K 25p / None, +1 / 0 / -1 / ND8 / cloudy / EV ca -0.3-+0.3 / shutter ~80
also made resett PAL/NTSC/PAL
what do you think?
here with better EV
today i was out and here are my results.
trees are always really bad in the right corner.
not a good sharpness at all.
4K 25p / None, +1 / 0 / -1 / ND8 / cloudy / EV ca -0.3-+0.3 / shutter ~80
also made resett PAL/NTSC/PAL
what do you think?
here with better EV
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I use ND16 to create 1/50 shutter speed during day time - in this case should I be using +1 since technically I am creating a "low light" situation? Or do I stick with 0?
The ND only creates a "low light" situation if the exposure is incorrect. Otherwise if you're shooting 25fps and have the SS at 1/50 and you're average a plus/minus .3 exposure I'd say you're creating the optimum lighting situation and stick with 0. Personally I prefer + 1.
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