DJI Mavic, Air and Mini Drones
Friendly, Helpful & Knowledgeable Community
Join Us Now

F4D3DKN1GH7's repair journey (from intro page)

F4D3DKN1GH7

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2022
Messages
9
Reactions
9
Age
38
Location
Usa
Hello all, this is a continuation of the thread I started in the introduction page. A quick recap for those just tuning in:



I fly a magic pro platinum (mpp) and have for a few years now but there was a learning curve and after noticing some instability that was not addressed after multiple recalibrations I went ahead and ordered a replacement upper canopy and mid frame (if considering doing the same please see my post in "pernacious pro platinum pilot's potential pain" under the intro page) and so far the damage seems to be the pins in the arms and... The lower circuit board (ugh) although I MAY attempt to repair that using a non-conductive epoxy the concern there is that it doesn't work and then I have to replace the wifi board as well.... And cost-wise it puts me into the range of a new mavic air so..m I'm conflicted. Thought I would post some pictures of the repair as it stands though for the amusement of others.

20211227_171528.jpg

The first is a reference shot for reassembly. I will tell you all that the contact points for the wires leading from the arms has been a pain In the butt to desolder and clean up: and keep in mind that's still not done.. just better than it WAS lol... Sigh..

received_1110519626366409.jpeg

The "kit" that I got had the canopy and the middle frame but NOTHING else.. and when I say nothing I mean nothing. That meant that I ended up having to take the pieces and parts around the sdcard slot and transfer them (thank GOD I have a magnification setup cause.. well.. see for yourself)
20220106_013620.jpg20220106_013516.jpg


So what your looking at is the little plastic window and all the tiny little bits that are in that area and whomever designed it like this is just sadistic!! But it's in there. I will have to end up getting a new vinyl skin as well because the shell I got isn't the same color.



So some pictures to show why I love my mpp are in order I think but if you're joining in from the other thread a couple of thoughts. 1. Does anyone know of a good non-conductive epoxy? And there has been a suggestion that, despite the diminutive size, I might be able to replace the swing down portion of connection that is busted (I'll post the pic showing it as well)

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image-1641683822234_6885721022334889903.jpeg

Any suggestions anyone might have as to any part of this process are always gratefully accepted!

Now for some fun. Just a couple pics I had lying around not being used. Enjoy!

Picsart_22-01-08_20-19-15-709.pngPicsart_22-01-08_20-15-38-751.pngPicsart_22-01-08_20-26-09-448.png
 

Attachments

  • 20220106_013620.jpg
    20220106_013620.jpg
    875.6 KB · Views: 6
  • 20220106_013444.jpg
    20220106_013444.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 7
  • 20220106_013438.jpg
    20220106_013438.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 7
  • 20220106_013516.jpg
    20220106_013516.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 6
With regards to the front arms, when refitting the pivots turn the silver square bits relative to the base until they are at the tipping point between the open and closed arm positions. If you do it carefully enough they will stick there. Refit the arm in the corresponding position and then the pivot is likely to near enough drop in. (based on rebuilding a Mavic 2).
With regards to photo 2 and the soldering if that is reassembly photo the two inner beads ao solder look very close to one another, are they touching and are they 'common'? It looks as if they might both be black which is why I am asking if they are common.
 
With regards to the front arms, when refitting the pivots turn the silver square bits relative to the base until they are at the tipping point between the open and closed arm positions. If you do it carefully enough they will stick there. Refit the arm in the corresponding position and then the pivot is likely to near enough drop in. (based on rebuilding a Mavic 2).
With regards to photo 2 and the soldering if that is reassembly photo the two inner beads ao solder look very close to one another, are they touching and are they 'common'? It looks as if they might both be black which is why I am asking if they are common.
I think I see what your talking about. So, while looking at that board and splitting it down the middle, there are three pads at the top running horizontally and then three pads running vertically forming a T shape. Under the top arm of the T there are two smaller points which are, in fact, very close to one another. Also, there is a bead of left over silicone that caught the flash of my camera on the right side (wasn't completely cleaned when I took the photo) but I'm going to double check the board tomorrow and make sure I didn't get a rogue bit of solder whilst using my solder wick
 
these may help, the first is what I should have done and 'painted' your photo to show which solder joints I was talking about. The second shows what the connector should look like and is a screen capture from an Ifixit tear down video. If you still have the silicon that you cut off the missing bits may still be imbedded in it.
 

Attachments

  • received_1110519626366409.jpg
    received_1110519626366409.jpg
    27.3 KB · Views: 13
  • Screen Shot 2022-01-09 at 08.12.43.png
    Screen Shot 2022-01-09 at 08.12.43.png
    203.8 KB · Views: 13
these may help, the first is what I should have done and 'painted' your photo to show which solder joints I was talking about. The second shows what the connector should look like and is a screen capture from an Ifixit tear down video. If you still have the silicon that you cut off the missing bits may still be imbedded in it.
Ah yes I see that and those are actually the original connection points. They are crazy close to one another but don't quite touch. Sundays are crazy busy around here but glad I was able to hop on for a moment. Think I'll be looking at a replacement board just to keep things simple as possible. Going on vacation in a couple weeks so trying to get the house in order. Updates soon as I can!
 
Alright my aeronautical brothers and sisters are we ready for an update?!

I am hoping that my updating this thread will cause it to jump out at folks again. Needless to say, things have been a bit crazy around here trying to get my household in order before a (somewhat) extended vacation has added a whole new level of busy work and, as such I have been essentially radio silent for a moment.

I have been surfing the forums when I have a spare moment and feel as if I have gathered some good academic knowledge while other things have brought up more questions.

Therefore, while I have a (gasp) moment of free time I thought I would give a status update and ask questions of you that may know!

First to the update on the m.p.p.:

(Huge thank you to all of you that have reached out to me from my introduction onward BTW your assistance and insights have been invaluable, not to mention make a new member feel welcome)

If you recall there was a potentially oh S#!7 moment when the connection to the main A board for the wifi ribbon cable seemed to be broken. Bit of good news, by all appearances, the only thing that "broke" was the top shield of the connection (imagine the hinge style locking connection) and, while that is missing, the black swing down portion which actually "locks" the ribbon in place seems to be fully operational. Therefore the plan has become to carry on with reassembly and, when doing the final button up prior to systems check I will simply use something to seal off that area, with the understanding that it is a one time action and a new board would be needed should anything go badly


This brings me to my first question: Conformal . Or the same 702 rtv sealant as will be used throughout the rest of the build?

I seem to remember a sleepy moment where someone said DJI uses Conformal in one of their final steps and this seems to be likely, as there was something on the board during breakdown.

If so, does anyone have any preferred brands or suggestions?

I do have one other question as far as if there is any sort of site aside from Amazon where I can find parts I'm looking for something like RockAuto but for drones and I'm pretty sure that there's something here on the form but even as I'm typing this I am being pulled away yet again to put out a fire so if anybody knows off hand I would appreciate the info it looks like the plastic washer that is part of the components of the front arm axis which Phineas fogg mentioned has indeed gone missing at some point and for the life of me I cannot imagine what I would even search for to find one. Thank you again for your assistance on that stuff and just real quickly and closing part of my vacation will be to Georgia and I know that Stone mountain is a place that I would very much like to film but I know that it is also verboten as far as drone flight goes and wanted to know if anyone might know of a side channel one might use in contacting the powers that be regarding a flight variance or exemption. Otherwise I will simply follow normal procedure when trying to obtain these. Final assembly should take place this Saturday so everyone wish me luck and if I find myself with a moment to spare of course I will be on here picking y'all's brands LOL

Cheers,
F4D3DKN1GH7


 
Last edited:
regarding the washer, go frame by frame* from 4:47 in
.
*= pause the video and whilst paused repeatedly press the full stop button, pressing the comma button = frame by frame backwards.


From memory the hole in the M2Z's washer was just slightly larger that the pin OD of the pivot i.e. it was a good fit around the pin. The washers' diameter was just small enough to fit into a shallow recess in the top of the arm (go frame by frame around the end of 5:10). Thickness maybe 1.5 - 2mm. Maybe an out of date credit card thickness? If you find someone selling 2nd arms on ebay you could try asking them if they have the washers and how much they'd want for them.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Lycus Tech Mavic Air 3 Case

DJI Drone Deals

New Threads

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
130,954
Messages
1,558,298
Members
159,955
Latest member
Michael N