Here's the Case MOD I Did Using An Apache 4800 Case From Harbor Freight

[PITTMAV69]

Hello all. I wanted to share some pics of the case MOD project I just finished for my Mavic Air 2. I wanted a pro hard case for my rig but I felt like the available models with the die-cut foam; while looking good with their C&C cut inserts; were lacking some essential areas for some of my gear. Not to mention that a Nanuk or Pelican with a custom cut insert would run between $110 and $200 depending on the model.
I saw a few ideas in the Mavic Pilots forum involving die-cut foam hard cases; using Plasti-Dip that looked good. I also found out that Apache cases from Harbor Freight were highly recommended and this is what I came up with.
Apache Watertight Hard Case from Harbor Freight (Construction Orange): With insider track membership/$53.00
4 cans of Black Matte Plasti-Dip @ $6/ea = $24.00
About 8hrs Construction/Paint time + 4 days for Plasti-Dip to cure (10 coats all around)
All in Cost including tax: $82.39
I'm totally impressed with both the end result of the die cut foam as well as the overall construction of the case. When I decided to customize my own foam insert I knew that I wanted to add a few spots for things that weren't provided for in the custom cut inserts that I looked at.
First; I wanted a space for my MavMount. These things are absolutely top end if you like to fly with a tablet instead of your phone. I use an iPad Pro 9.7" and I'm planning on purchasing an iPad Mini after I get my Mavic 2 Pro. They are designed by a guy in the Hollywood Film Industry to provide a stable and balanced platform between controller and tablet and they; in my opinion; outperform any other model on the market. If you're interested in checking them out; here's the link:

Front Page - Mavmount brand DJI Mavic |Mini |Air iPad Tablet Adapter

MAVMOUNT adapters work with every iPad and every major android tablet device that exists. Whether you’re using the folding or newer top mount DJI controllers, Mavmount has a rock solid professional solution for you. All Mavmount adapters use precision engineering for top fit and finish, supports...

www.mavmount.com

Second; I wanted space to carry at least 5 batteries for extended jobs (4 in the case and 1 on the MAV.)
Third; I wanted to carry a full size tablet along with the rig; so I modified the top piece of foam that goes into the lid and the bottom most piece that sits below the 2 die cut middle pieces. I cut out a long section the width of the opening I created in the die cut pieces; in the top and bottom pieces. Note: I left about 1/8' of foam in the top and bottom under the cutout. This thin section was reinforced greatly when I applied the Plasti-Dip and it does provide adequate protection for the tablet when it rides in the slot. Further Update: I have been carrying the iPad 9.7" face down over the drone and battery compartments. I found out that; even with the top and bottom cutouts added; the 9.7" still sticks up a little too far for comfort when closing the lid. The slot works perfectly with an iPad Mini or other sizes 9" or under.
Lastly; I wanted a couple extra compartments for extra SD card/small components storage and for various cables and chargers.
Have a look and let me know what you think and feel free to throw in any ideas of your own. This won't be the only case I'm going to customize.
Thanks;
Kyle

 

[Weazel]

Great job!!! Nice you have a slot for your iPad. Seems like you got everything [emoji1303][emoji1303]

 

[itallica]

Well done! Send that to me for testing and I'll tell you how you did!

 

[Geekser]

Can you walk me through how you cut out your foam? - what kind of knife/razor did you use? Special tricks you did?

 

[Stealth Dog]

VERY NICE!!!

 

[aokusman]

Can you walk me through how you cut out your foam? - what kind of knife/razor did you use? Special tricks you did?

Foam should come precut in squares.

 

[marnat3]

Can I ask how you used the Plasti-dip. Was it to glue in the pieces?
Very nice work by the way.

 

[rstyles]

I'm wondering what the plasti-dip does as well.

 

[MA2 317]

I fiddled with one of these a few years ago.

With the ease of the pull / pluck foam pieces of the case, the Plastic dip or spray glue will help ensure the pieces you didn't pull out stay in place.

Over time, the foam may get brittle and flake apart, risking small particles of it to enter the aircraft and remote vents.

The dip also helps seal the foam to keep this from happening.

 

[PITTMAV69]

Can you walk me through how you cut out your foam? - what kind of knife/razor did you use? Special tricks you did?

Heya brother. The foam is die cut when you buy the case so there really isn't a trick per say. I just used my fingers to "punch out" the little foam blocks either one; or several; at a time; depending on the size and shape that I wanted. There are 2 layers of the die cut foam with a top piece (The one in the Lid with the "dimples"; and the bottom piece that lies underneath the 2 die cut pieces) this allows you to choose how much of the top or bottom die cut pieces you want to expose. For example: I poked all the way through both die cut pieces when I needed a Deep Set cutout for the batteries; controller and drone. Conversely; when I did the cutouts for the cables; power supply and charging board I only poked out the topmost piece of foam so that those accessories wouldn't sink all the way to the bottom when I packed them for travel. It's really up to the individual and how they want to design the cutouts for what they want to hold in the case. That's why I like the die cut foam. That said; I also HIGHLY recommend using the Plasti-Dip as it will greatly reinforce the foam; especially in the areas where you may only have the width of a single block of foam between components. There are a bunch of videos on YouTube that will show you how to do it but I would recommend this one for a more pro look to your finished product.

Good luck and fly safe.
Kyle.

 

[PITTMAV69]

Can I ask how you used the Plasti-dip. Was it to glue in the pieces?
Very nice work by the way.

Heya brother.Thanks for asking. The Plasti-Dip is applied to both strengthen the foam; as Die Cut inserts; while offering the convenience of customizing your design; will also flake away and fall apart after repeated use and ageing. To prevent this; and to give a professional look to your finished product I would highly recommend using the Plasti Dip. There are a ton of YouTube videos on how to do it but this is the one I went by and the one I would suggest to anyone who wants the final results to have a professional; heavy duty look.

Happy flying and Mahalo.
Kyle.

 

[PITTMAV69]

I'm wondering what the plasti-dip does as well.

Thanks for the ask. Check out my replies to the same questions here in this thread.
Fly safe and have a great weekend.
Kyle.

 

[marnat3]

Thank you. That makes a lot of sense now.
Will be picking up the 4800 case tomorrow and some dip as well.

 

[PITTMAV69]

MA2 317" data-source="post: 1126763" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">

I fiddled with one of these a few years ago.

With the ease of the pull / pluck foam pieces of the case, the Plastic dip or spray glue will help ensure the pieces you didn't pull out stay in place.

Over time, the foam may get brittle and flake apart, risking small particles of it to enter the aircraft and remote vents.

The dip also helps seal the foam to keep this from happening.

You are absolutely correct. I posted a link to a very good YouTube video showing the professional way to apply the Plasti-Dip product in this thread. Check it out if you're interested.
Fly safe.
Kyle.

 

[PITTMAV69]

Thank you. That makes a lot of sense now.
Will be picking up the 4800 case tomorrow and some dip as well.

Sounds great. Keep us posted on the project. I'd like to see the finished case. It will take around 4 cans of black matte Plasti-Dip to cover all the pieces in the 4800 Apache case; front; back and inside the cutouts. Please make sure to cure the finished foam pieces for 3-4 days in a well ventilated area and as close to ambient room temp as possible. This will allow the VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds) in the Plasti-Dip to evaporate sufficiently so as not to cause damage to lenses and other sensitive electronics; as well as dissipating any unpleasant odor from the solvents. Good luck and have fun.
Kyle

 

[marnat3]

W

Sounds great. Keep us posted on the project

Will do.

 

[Geekser]

Heya brother. The foam is die cut when you buy the case so there really isn't a trick per say. I just used my fingers to "punch out" the little foam blocks either one; or several; at a time; depending on the size and shape that I wanted. There are 2 layers of the die cut foam with a top piece (The one in the Lid with the "dimples"; and the bottom piece that lies underneath the 2 die cut pieces) this allows you to choose how much of the top or bottom die cut pieces you want to expose. For example: I poked all the way through both die cut pieces when I needed a Deep Set cutout for the batteries; controller and drone. Conversely; when I did the cutouts for the cables; power supply and charging board I only poked out the topmost piece of foam so that those accessories wouldn't sink all the way to the bottom when I packed them for travel. It's really up to the individual and how they want to design the cutouts for what they want to hold in the case. That's why I like the die cut foam. That said; I also HIGHLY recommend using the Plasti-Dip as it will greatly reinforce the foam; especially in the areas where you may only have the width of a single block of foam between components. There are a bunch of videos on YouTube that will show you how to do it but I would recommend this one for a more pro look to your finished product.

Good luck and fly safe.
Kyle.

The main reason I asked is that I have a case with foam made for the MA2 - but I find that the area that holds the drone itself - while it is cut out properly (or so it seems) it does fit very tightly and I wanted to find a way to loosen it up a bit by cutting a small amount around the cut out area - just so I don't have to work so hard to pull the drone out of or into the case.

If you have any thoughts, I would appreciate your insight -

 

[PITTMAV69]

The main reason I asked is that I have a case with foam made for the MA2 - but I find that the area that holds the drone itself - while it is cut out properly (or so it seems) it does fit very tightly and I wanted to find a way to loosen it up a bit by cutting a small amount around the cut out area - just so I don't have to work so hard to pull the drone out of or into the case.

If you have any thoughts, I would appreciate your insight -

Is the foam in your case die cut? I mean; did you buy a pre-made cutout or did you use the same pick and pull die cut foam with the plasti-dip method I used? If it was die cut prior to applying the plasti dip then you can use an Exacto style knife or other very small razor knife to cut through the plasti dip coating and pop out the blocks as needed. If the foam is one solid piece; there is only one way that I know of to cut the foam neatly and accurately. That is to use a "Hot Wire" or "Hot Knife" foam cutter. I haven't done this before so I won't make any recommendations except to say that you can purchase these types of cutters at Lowes or Home Depot and that there are several videos on YouTube for instruction but again; I don't have any first hand experience with doing this type of foam cutting. The results on some of the videos do look very good though. I suppose; like anything else detail oriented; it's a matter of using the proper tool and taking your time as well as planning ahead where you want to make your cuts.
Let me know how you make out with it. I'd like to see the results. I may try this method myself on other cases.
Thanks.
Kyle.

 

[PITTMAV69]

Is the foam in your case die cut? I mean; did you buy a pre-made cutout or did you use the same pick and pull die cut foam with the plasti-dip method I used? If it was die cut prior to applying the plasti dip then you can use an Exacto style knife or other very small razor knife to cut through the plasti dip coating and pop out the blocks as needed. If the foam is one solid piece; there is only one way that I know of to cut the foam neatly and accurately. That is to use a "Hot Wire" or "Hot Knife" foam cutter. I haven't done this before so I won't make any recommendations except to say that you can purchase these types of cutters at Lowes or Home Depot and that there are several videos on YouTube for instruction but again; I don't have any first hand experience with doing this type of foam cutting. The results on some of the videos do look very good though. I suppose; like anything else detail oriented; it's a matter of using the proper tool and taking your time as well as planning ahead where you want to make your cuts.
Let me know how you make out with it. I'd like to see the results. I may try this method myself on other cases.
Thanks.
Kyle.

By the way. The cutout for my MA2 is also snug; but not to the point that I have to struggle to get it in and out. I don't think I would want it any looser though just because; if it were; The drone might jiggle around inside the case during travel.
K.

 

[WobblingWillie]

Can you walk me through how you cut out your foam? - what kind of knife/razor did you use? Special tricks you did?

There are 4 layers of foam in the case.The top and bottom layers are solid. The 2 middle layers are "pick and pluck" foam. You decide what shape and size holes you want placed where. Each partially separated pick and pluck square is approximately 5/8" x 1/2" and 1 1/2" tall. After you make your "holes", the best thing to do is spray the top and bottom of each of the 2 center foam sections with Plastidip to seal them so that they don't separate any further. I used almost 2 complete spray cans on a 3800 case and once I was completely satisfied with my set up I used contact cement to glue the 2 center sections of foam to each other.