How large can you go and still have a sharp photo?
- Thread starter ihavequestions
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Kilrah
Well-Known Member
The printing service my friend uses (he makes movie poster style stuff) prints at 100dpi for photo quality at such formats as the OP wants. They print on plexi as well, and he's made huge plexi prints of some of his work to hang on his walls, as well as a monstrous wall at the theatre with all of the season's shows. Comes out great even close.
Not even expensive, the OP's size comes out at about $80 for a paper print and $130 or so for plexi.
M2Z "super res" output comes out great as long as you set it to save the RAW images and stitch / process the pictures yourself with a decent tool and skills. Built-in auto stuff is never great, but the function is handy to automate taking the 9 shots.
Not even expensive, the OP's size comes out at about $80 for a paper print and $130 or so for plexi.
M2Z "super res" output comes out great as long as you set it to save the RAW images and stitch / process the pictures yourself with a decent tool and skills. Built-in auto stuff is never great, but the function is handy to automate taking the 9 shots.
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I've tested super-resolution imaging with the M2P, and it works just fine - as you would expect. The necessary sub-pixel shifting happens appropriately randomly due to slight gimbal movements. Obviously the more images in the stack the lower the noise and the better the ultimate resolution attainable.
Prints on raw metal are actually very dull, and they have their place but generally aren't what people are expecting when they hear about people printing on metal. What you probably want is coated metal (sometimes marketed as a "HD" metal print), which is the same sheet of aluminium but first very precisely coated with a glossy white substrate (matte also available). Just be aware of the different types. They make for the best looking prints out there, IMHO, but they are very reflective so you need to be careful where you display them so you aren't always having to look at a reflection of the nearest light bulb.
In the USA I know Bay Photo does them.
In the USA I know Bay Photo does them.
IMHO if I wanted a very large, quality image from my M2P, I'd shoot multiple overlapped images and stitch them together as a pano. Doing that you could easily end up with 100MP or more.
This is a tad rude of me making alteration without seeking your approval, but I think this in an improvement. Would be even better on the original RAW image. The thing is, there's a lot of noise so a very large print would be a real problem.
I agree but there is no chance of taking that image to 5-7 feet unless you were viewing it from 20-30 foot away. It's impossible to drag out shadow detail from a 1" sensor without introducing lots of noise. This is a classic example where the 5 shot (in RAW) exposure bracket would have made a huge difference. Plus... I posted the alteration to show E-Zap what is possible, it wasn't an attempt to produce a Salon print. And I was using the posters' JPEG image not the original RAW image (assuming he shot in RAW). There were other aspects i would have changed too if it was mine but it wasn't.
Sure - that would be really pushing it for a 7 MB jpeg. I was just demonstrating that you could get the noise down quite a bit more in that particular image. A raw version would have had a lot more potential.
Appreciated. I'm still really new at photography with the drone and any input helps.
That was my intention E-Zap. I wasn't trying to be a smart a*s.
No really, the details you dragged out of my initial upload surprised and amazed me. I have a lot to learn.
I am a graphic designer and i have several professional printers including ink jet as well as real photographic prints developed in chemicals. The photograpgic paper comes on a roll that is 60" wide. So you can print 60" wide by any length. Ink jets i can print much wider on a variety of different materials.
