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I’m amazed how the Yagi-Uda Antennas work.

You’re better off going for the 2.4ghz tuned yagis if you really want to maximize range. 2.4ghz has properties that are more favorable to long range, and 5.8ghz is shorter range with favorable properties for higher data rates...

Regardless of which band you choose, be sure that you’re going into the menus and taking the connection out of auto mode and selecting the band that your yagis are using specifically. If your drone pops over to 2.4 while you have 5.8 yagis on, your yagis aren’t going to be resonant for that frequency.
Depends upon the aircraft. The P4P gets far better range on Auto 5.8Ghz than Auto 2.4Ghz. That was and still is the undocumented secret to its 5 mile range in heavily congested urban areas with clear LOS. It also works equally well on Auto 5.8 GHz in rural areas, with clear LOS.

However, to your point, the untuned parabolic windsurfer is frequency independent and can be successfully used by itself in full Auto band selection on Ocusync 2.0 on both bands for best long range results.
 
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Depends upon the aircraft. The P4P gets far better range on Auto 5.8Ghz than Auto 2.4Ghz. That was and still is the undocumented secret to its 5 mile range in heavily congested urban areas with clear LOS. It also works equally well on Auto 5.8 GHz in rural areas, with clear LOS.

However, to your point, the untuned parabolic windsurfer is frequency independent and can be successfully used by itself in full Auto band selection on Ocusync 2.0 on both bands for best long range results.
That’s got to have something to do with it operating 5.8ghz with more wattage or something. It would be a completely anomalous situation if, with all things being the same, 5.8 achieved a longer range.

I say this not as a drone enthusiast but a ham radio operator..
 
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That’s got to have something to do with it operating 5.8ghz with more wattage or something. It would be a completely anomalous situation if, with all things being the same, 5.8 achieved a longer range.

I say this not as a drone enthusiast but a ham radio operator..
It's one of the counterintuitive anomalies of the P4P. I was only getting 2-3 miles on 2.4 Ghz and was actively looking for an antenna mod, when someone told me I didn't need one, as they were getting 5 miles stock, along with all their drone friends flying the P4P. Once I found out they were using Auto 5.8Ghz instead of 2.4Ghz, I tried it myself. It worked as represented, with clear LOS, and I never looked back! Makes no sense, but it works! Wattage is the same on both bands in the U.S..
 
I decided to take a gamble on a set of YAGI’s antenna for the MA2 & MM. I received both today via Prime.
Both are TOMAT 5.8 GHz

Mavic Air 2
Without antenna 2875 ft in location A
With YAGI 3795 ft

Mavic Mini
I will do the same flight location with the Mini another time.
4K feet on the Air 2 is supposed to be good? I've been out 20K with stock antenna. Maybe you left ot the zeros??

bob
 
Unfortunately, both of the above two statements are completely wrong.
Unlike the Yagis, the parabolic windsurfer is not tuned to any frequency. It simply focuses the signal, regardless of the frequency band. I have been successfully using parabolic windsurfers on the P4P set to only the Auto 5.8Ghz band for years with stellar results. The frequency specific 5.8Ghz Yagi in front of the parabolic windsurfer actually physically interferes with the proper focusing of the parabolic shape of the windsurfer, degrading its performance, with no improvement due to the Yagi when inside the windsurfer. I have tried both antenna modifiers together on the Mavic 2 Pro RC, set to Auto Frequency, and signal was significantly worse than with the parabolic windsurfer alone. I had to remove the Yagis to restore the signal. They do physically interfere with each other.
The response above is to the discussion about the MA2 (in response to the titled Mavic Air 2 Discussions). The statements given are in reference to the questions asked about the Drone Valley products sold direct or through Amazon for the MA2. I can not/would not comment on products I've not used but have the Drone Valley products are tuned to specific frequency ranges and without a doubt are an improvement and in theory would not cause a measurable performance hit when used together. My bad if the scope of this particular thread is across multiple DJI product antenna manufactures.
 
I have read several published pieces on this product, you have to reset your auto connection to 5.8 as mentioned above from what I read it's heads you win and heads you loose, the controller has to be pointed exactly at your bird any deviation and it's not going to work, it may in that case work in reverse.

Next for LOS flying it's great but so is your built in antennas great for LOS because that's what they were made for, so now we come to flying your bird out of LOS again the controller has to be pointed directly at your bird and if not you will loose anything gained and may even loose signal altogether so if you are flying out of LOS it's going to be impossible to point those antennas exactly at your bird but hang on you can't see it so no real advantage, another thing many published pieces make mention that it is important to have a wide expanse of land in front of you with no interruptions in the way, so it seems to need a very good signal.

So after you have read this you will ask yourself why do I need to purchase these additions, answer you don't need them, I regularly fly my M2P out of LOS as far as just over 3 km (I'm in Cornwall so lots of room) and have no problems so I will not be purchasing these antennas.
 
I have read several published pieces on this product, you have to reset your auto connection to 5.8 as mentioned above from what I read it's heads you win and heads you loose, the controller has to be pointed exactly at your bird any deviation and it's not going to work, it may in that case work in reverse.

Next for LOS flying it's great but so is your built in antennas great for LOS because that's what they were made for, so now we come to flying your bird out of LOS again the controller has to be pointed directly at your bird and if not you will loose anything gained and may even loose signal altogether so if you are flying out of LOS it's going to be impossible to point those antennas exactly at your bird but hang on you can't see it so no real advantage, another thing many published pieces make mention that it is important to have a wide expanse of land in front of you with no interruptions in the way, so it seems to need a very good signal.

So after you have read this you will ask yourself why do I need to purchase these additions, answer you don't need them, I regularly fly my M2P out of LOS as far as just over 3 km (I'm in Cornwall so lots of room) and have no problems so I will not be purchasing these antenna
My personal experience has found the pin-point statement to simply not be true. With the Drone Valley Yagi in place and the controller turned 90 degrees off, the MA2 still will achieve a range greater than the typical LOS.

Side note:
The Drove Valley products are not advertised as extending the range but to insure you don't loose connection in areas of high interference or added obstacles. it will increase the range in an approximately 30 degree window but thats is not its only purpose.

Good example of its usefulness:
Recording in an area with parabolic antennas on a nearby tower and you don't know what frequency they are transmitting. With the standard antenna you may experience anything from a short drop-out to an extended loss of signal to the degree of the UAV invoking RTH. With a $20 optional antenna your chances of the dropout diminish anywhere from slightly to dramatically. Either way, whats the downside?
 
I just bought and tried the 5.8 Ghz yagi and am also impressed.

The one I bought was listed as FWV brand on Amazon with 5 director elements and one reflector element.

The experiment: flew until I was getting a red signal strength icon. Snapped on the yagi antennas and the signal strength went to 5 bars - full power.

I've done several flights at 11,000 feet distance - just a bit over 2 miles. During this experiment, I got the red signal strength icon at about that distance again. Popped on the antennas and went out to 17,700 feet - 3.3 miles. So I did get just about 50% more distance.

But that's not all! At that distance, I got a battery warning and turned around. I still had 4 bars and could have gone farther.

Things I noticed:

Signal was much more directional. Turning 30º to the left or right would give me the red signal strength icon again. Point it back to the drone and it jumped back to 5 bars.

The signal strength would switch back and forth from 5 bars to red icon until I went into the menu and set the frequency to 5.8g. Once I did that, it stayed steady at 5 bars.

All with a spotter of course.
 
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I am not sure you would get any benefit from using both a Yagi and parabolic antenna and may even see a degradation of the signal. From my understanding the Yagi catches indirect signals by branching off the main antenna. While a parabolic antenna refracts the signal waves out in a conical pattern. My bet is that the parabolic antenna would refract the signal back into the Yagi causing impedance. Essentially a large amount of interference or signal redundancy.

There is not harm in trying the combination as your Mavic Air 2 has Return to Home (RTH). Or you can just take them off it does not work.

Your location sound about like mine. Open area then city. Urban areas are tough as the wifi saturation the main culprit of signal loss. I have been thinking about the Alientech Duo II. It is a powered 2.4 GHz and 5.8 GHz antenna and from what I have seen in both reviews and technical specs it should help. But it requires opening the controller and about $350.
Wrong technical concepts, sorry, the EE in me screams.
 
The response above is to the discussion about the MA2 (in response to the titled Mavic Air 2 Discussions). The statements given are in reference to the questions asked about the Drone Valley products sold direct or through Amazon for the MA2. I can not/would not comment on products I've not used but have the Drone Valley products are tuned to specific frequency ranges and without a doubt are an improvement and in theory would not cause a measurable performance hit when used together. My bad if the scope of this particular thread is across multiple DJI product antenna manufactures.
Windsurfers are not tuned to specific frequencies. Not sure where you got this idea from. Drone Valley Rick never said they are. Only the Yagis are frequency specific. Rick suggested the possibility of using a windsurfer with a Yagi together, but I can tell you for a fact, from personal use, that they do seriously interfere with one another. Not everything Rick says is gospel. Between theory and reality, reality trumps theory every time!
 
I have read several published pieces on this product, you have to reset your auto connection to 5.8 as mentioned above from what I read it's heads you win and heads you loose, the controller has to be pointed exactly at your bird any deviation and it's not going to work, it may in that case work in reverse.

Next for LOS flying it's great but so is your built in antennas great for LOS because that's what they were made for, so now we come to flying your bird out of LOS again the controller has to be pointed directly at your bird and if not you will loose anything gained and may even loose signal altogether so if you are flying out of LOS it's going to be impossible to point those antennas exactly at your bird but hang on you can't see it so no real advantage, another thing many published pieces make mention that it is important to have a wide expanse of land in front of you with no interruptions in the way, so it seems to need a very good signal.

So after you have read this you will ask yourself why do I need to purchase these additions, answer you don't need them, I regularly fly my M2P out of LOS as far as just over 3 km (I'm in Cornwall so lots of room) and have no problems so I will not be purchasing these antennas.
This is why a windsurfer is invariably a far better choice. It is not tuned to any specific frequency, and will concentrate whichever band is auto selected. It converts the 360° omnidirectionality into a roughly 180° directionality, so keeping it pointed at the drone is no problem. Yagis are frequency specific and narrow the beam field to roughly 90°, so they require more attention to being kept pointed at the drone.
 
1) The Yagi antenna is tuned to the 5Ghz range only. It does not offer much help the 2.4Ghz gain. Just to set expectations, it's only going to help in the frequency range it's tuned for.
From what I see they have 2 models , 1 for 5Ghz and 1 for 2,4Ghz ....

 
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What is a "booster"? Is it just a directional antenna or does it actually increase the transmitter power? If it's a real booster and increases the transmitter power, it seems like the signal to the drone will go farther but the signal back won't, unless you also mod the drone to transmit with more power.

So, what do these things actually do?
 
So I currently have the MM and want to upgrade to to AIR 2 being it has Octusync I was hoping to loose the antennas add on like the MM. How is range on the Air 2 with out add ons
6 miles! No need for any antenna modifiers or amplifiers. Adding them, expecting more, without a battery mod to support any increased distance beyond 6 miles, is a fool's folly!
 
It's one of the counterintuitive anomalies of the P4P. I was only getting 2-3 miles on 2.4 Ghz and was actively looking for an antenna mod, when someone told me I didn't need one, as they were getting 5 miles stock, along with all their drone friends flying the P4P. Once I found out they were using Auto 5.8Ghz instead of 2.4Ghz, I tried it myself. It worked as represented, with clear LOS, and I never looked back! Makes no sense, but it works! Wattage is the same on both bands in the U.S..
The unknown here then are the antennae for the bands at each end. Perhaps a discone in the drone and crossed-folded doublets in the RC?
 

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