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Upgrade to the ALIENTECH DUO II: Leave Beginner Mode Behind.

That would be wonderful!
Aren't extra antennas part of OS4, or is that only on the drone-side?
Well, we're all ultimately guessing since it's a proprietary spec and DJI doesn't share it. However, even if more antennas is in the spec, it doesn't present a barrier to supporting the protocol, which the antennas have nothing to do with. That's a simple matter of programming the SDR in the remote to implement it.

Keeping in mind the main objective, the goal is supporting legacy drones for the convenience of one really nice remote for them all. When needing maximum O3 performance, use the original remote.
 
Well, we're all ultimately guessing since it's a proprietary spec and DJI doesn't share it. However, even if more antennas is in the spec, it doesn't present a barrier to supporting the protocol, which the antennas have nothing to do with. That's a simple matter of programming the SDR in the remote to implement it.

Keeping in mind the main objective, the goal is supporting legacy drones for the convenience of one really nice remote for them all. When needing maximum O3 performance, use the original remote.
Well, I just bought a second RC Pro to sandbox my first one solely for non RID compliant drones, so you better be right! LOL!

Interestingly, during the setup of the new one, on older FW from 8/2022, I was offered a toggle to enable GPS on the RC Pro, which I immediately turned off. The only apparent consequence so far is saying that I will be flying without maps. So if the RID compliant Mavic 3 Pro can still be flown without updating the pilot's location, by keeping GPS off on the RC Pro, that would be a major win! Launch, and move far enough away to not be found on RID that only reveals the launch site and the drone path, until you are ready to land elsewhere, and quickly disappear! No confrontations from Karens or robbers during the flight, who won't know exactly where to find you, until you have already left! Peace at last!

Installing an external RID device on my non compliant RID drones offers the same safety. Unlike internal RID, external RID devices are not required to continuously update the pilot's location!
 
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I like the fact that with no limit drones you put the booster in the remote and in the drone . Just because you put some thing on the remote, does not help the drone.cost is also a big difference, if you can install nld yourself, then your talking only 200.00. For me in populated areas it’s a no brainer.
 
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During that flight, I noticed something on the beach below me. I decided to make a separate flight, so I could examine it more closely.

...maybe I could do better by climbing up a folding ladder. ...

Bottom line, I'm interested in being able to fly lower, rather than fly farther.

If you're flying a Mini 3 Pro, the antenna are easily removable and cabled to a reverse SMA outside the case without any mods to the case. I have done that with good result but how about an external remote antenna on a tripod or ladder?
Something like this: Amazon.com

Or one with an even longer cable to accommodate a taller tripod. One would have to balance cable loss against a potentially improved line of sight for the antenna. I tried it with poor results but it was just a cheesy antenna I had lying around. I would expect a better antenna to do better.

Good Luck!
 
If you're flying a Mini 3 Pro, the antenna are easily removable and cabled to a reverse SMA outside the case without any mods to the case. I have done that with good result but how about an external remote antenna on a tripod or ladder?
Something like this: Amazon.com

Or one with an even longer cable to accommodate a taller tripod. One would have to balance cable loss against a potentially improved line of sight for the antenna. I tried it with poor results but it was just a cheesy antenna I had lying around. I would expect a better antenna to do better.

Good Luck!
I am flying a Mini 3 Pro, & using the RC controller; on neither unit are there any external antennas, unless you're referring to post-installation of a booster such as the AlienTech model.

In which case, there does need to be modifications to the case of the RC controller, during the process of installation.
 
Actually I know that in the US the FCC is starting to monitor and crack down on the use of active signal boosting. That is not restricted to just drone control, but includes illegally boosted WiFi equipment.

Just a note of caution to those in the US. I leave it to the individual consumer to make their own choice. I was contacted by a member of the FCC monitoring team on a source outside of this forum, but they stated that in addition to signal monitoring they also keep an eye on relevant forums.
How exactly would the FCC monitor these signals? Could they actually tell if someone is using a 2w stock legal amplifier versus a 4w booster Alientech amplifier? Do they have equipment that could measure these differences miles away? It seems like it would easier to track down a boosted Wi-Fi signal since it always stationary as opposed to an RC signal.
 
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I am flying a Mini 3 Pro, & using the RC controller; on neither unit are there any external antennas, unless you're referring to post-installation of a booster such as the AlienTech model.

In which case, there does need to be modifications to the case of the RC controller, during the process of installation.
I should have said "RC Controller with Mini 3 Pro." Lots of threads, lots of Youtubes, lots of strange opinions. Here's one: DJI RC External Antennas

For the RC Controller, popping out the rubber holders for the sticks reveals holes large enough to accommodate the new antenna wires without drilling holes. But either you're forgetful or you're trolling since you posted in that thread.

Edit: For those who didn't know about the RC controller mod: a pair of antenna with cables is $10-$25 and most report a 30%-100% real world range increase with all the usual caveat emptor regarding conditions. If careful, even a non-technical person should be able to do the mod. It's an effective and cheap alternative to something like the Alientech add on amplifier.

And no, neither with this mod or any other, will you see the rated "11 miles range."
 
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I like the fact that with no limit drones you put the booster in the remote and in the drone . Just because you put some thing on the remote, does not help the drone.cost is also a big difference, if you can install nld yourself, then your talking only 200.00. For me in populated areas it’s a no brainer.
Do you have NLD 2.5w booster install on any of your drones? I’ve heard mixed results about this setup.
 
I like the fact that with no limit drones you put the booster in the remote and in the drone . Just because you put some thing on the remote, does not help the drone.cost is also a big difference, if you can install nld yourself, then your talking only 200.00. For me in populated areas it’s a no brainer.
The main problem with the NLD booster installed in the drone is, & this is especially true the longer it flies, the higher percentage reduction of battery capacity, thus negatively impacting flight time &/ range.

I did a quick & rough calculation for that loss with the Mini 3 Pro, & with the (estimated maximum on paper) flight time with the Plus battery of ~45 minutes, with the 6W of power draw of the NLD booster installed on the drone, that would have a rough reduction of 1/3, that is, a flight time down to ~28 minutes – those numbers come with all the associated inaccuracy guesstimates, ofc. & before any real-world actual-use reductions applied.

It seems to me that the NLD drone-installed signal booster is a good idea, in theory, but since it needs, by design & function, to be an omnidirectional based RX & TX system, lots of that power is wasted unavoidably, & only useful in certain situations.

But, installing it into the drone, & making (semi?) permanent connections, situations where it might be beneficial would be limited vs. the constant detriment of significant reduction in available battery capacity.

On the RC controller, a similar situation exists, also due to the omnidirectional RX/TX nature & resultant power inefficiency, the benefit being not having to constantly aim & orient the RC to the drone. The RC battery capacity loss is easily addressed with plugging an external power source, which, ofc, isn't possible for the drone.

Despite the additional cost of the AlienTech type, where the RX/TX of the drone isn't modified, & with an internal battery not impacting the RC controller itself, the only drawback to the RC controller would still be needing to aim the antenna array directly at the drone.

For FPV (I'm presuming, since I don't fly the type) the direction would likely change a lot more & often, & generally be flown closer to the pilot & controller, rather than a camera drone such as the Mini 3 Pro, generally flown farther away & with less aiming needed, IMO the NLD product might make more sense.

At this point, considering everything above, I'm more inclined to go with the AlienTech product; for non-boosted RX/TX alternatives, I'm looking forward to seeing real-world actual use comparisons, & decide if they're worth the effort & expense vs. performance.
 
I don’t post much, mainly just read all the interesting threads and feedback from all the pilots on this site. All this talk about VLOS is what I find the most interesting, from a DJI mini to a Matrice, after 98ft the VLOS varies and that’s w/ 20/20 vision. So if those that make the statements that they consistently adhere to VLOS, kudos to you for keeping an eye on your drone, because once it’s in the sky on a clear or cloudy day, you almost need eagle vision to be responsibly keeping an eye on the your aircraft while flying either recreationally or commercially.

Be Safe out there.
 
According to the regulations of the FCC (Federal Communications Commission), the radiation power of radio transmitting equipment must be kept below the maximum limit allowed. For amplifier antennas, these limits are usually based on frequency and band. In the 2.4GHz frequency band, the power limit is usually 36dBm EIRP (Effective Isotropic Radiated Power), and in the 5.8GHz frequency band, the limit is usually 36dBm EIRP. Our power output will ensure that it falls within this range.
Oh leave the company alone. Get a better attitude. Stop the negative.
 
The main problem with the NLD booster installed in the drone is, & this is especially true the longer it flies, the higher percentage reduction of battery capacity, thus negatively impacting flight time &/ range.

I did a quick & rough calculation for that loss with the Mini 3 Pro, & with the (estimated maximum on paper) flight time with the Plus battery of ~45 minutes, with the 6W of power draw of the NLD booster installed on the drone, that would have a rough reduction of 1/3, that is, a flight time down to ~28 minutes – those numbers come with all the associated inaccuracy guesstimates, ofc. & before any real-world actual-use reductions applied.

It seems to me that the NLD drone-installed signal booster is a good idea, in theory, but since it needs, by design & function, to be an omnidirectional based RX & TX system, lots of that power is wasted unavoidably, & only useful in certain situations.

But, installing it into the drone, & making (semi?) permanent connections, situations where it might be beneficial would be limited vs. the constant detriment of significant reduction in available battery capacity.

On the RC controller, a similar situation exists, also due to the omnidirectional RX/TX nature & resultant power inefficiency, the benefit being not having to constantly aim & orient the RC to the drone. The RC battery capacity loss is easily addressed with plugging an external power source, which, ofc, isn't possible for the drone.

Despite the additional cost of the AlienTech type, where the RX/TX of the drone isn't modified, & with an internal battery not impacting the RC controller itself, the only drawback to the RC controller would still be needing to aim the antenna array directly at the drone.

For FPV (I'm presuming, since I don't fly the type) the direction would likely change a lot more & often, & generally be flown closer to the pilot & controller, rather than a camera drone such as the Mini 3 Pro, generally flown farther away & with less aiming needed, IMO the NLD product might make more sense.

At this point, considering everything above, I'm more inclined to go with the AlienTech product; for non-boosted RX/TX alternatives, I'm looking forward to seeing real-world actual use comparisons, & decide if they're worth the effort & expense vs. performance.
If you have trouble keeping the RC pointed at the drone, you have bigger problems than the directionality of the boosted signal. It's never a problem. At a bare minimum, your situational awareness as a pilot requires looking in the direction of the drone, which automatically points the RC in the same direction. Then there is that whole VLOS thing, and both your radar grid and map make it easy to keep the RC pointed at the drone, if you do ever get "lost."

Omnidirectionality is for newbies who do stupid things like flying behind themselves, which never ends well! Keep the drone in front of you at all times for a happy drone experience. If you need to fly behind yourself, turn around!
 
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If you have trouble keeping the RC pointed at the drone, you have bigger problems than the directionality of the boosted signal. It's never a problem. At a bare minimum, your situational awareness as a pilot requires looking in the direction of the drone, which automatically points the RC in the same direction. Then there is that whole VLOS thing, and both your radar grid and map make it easy to keep the RC pointed at the drone, if you do ever get "lost."

Omnidirectionality is for newbies who do stupid things like flying behind themselves, which never ends well! Keep the drone in front of you at all times for a happy drone experience. If you need to fly behind yourself, turn around!
LOLLL So true !!
 
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I love the green indicator showing the optimal aiming for the strongest signal, & use it regularly.

Going off-axis & it changes to blue.

I think, as I said above, the aiming might be more important for FPV pilots, as they might be more likely to fly off-axis, & generally tending to fly closer & faster, further increasing the likelihood of being off-axis.

That, & if they use FPV goggles, that problem might be increased.

I can imagine that while using those goggles, maintaining balance without external visual cues, might be exacerbated if they have to keep turning, & I'm unsure if they can still see that same signal aiming feature.

Camera UAVs, tending to fly slower & farther away, would likely have less of the difficulty.

I've been wishing & thinking of some sort of collapsible/portable swivel-seat so that those that can't stand for long periods of time, would find it easier to swivel to keep their antenna aim on-axis.
 
I love the green indicator showing the optimal aiming for the strongest signal, & use it regularly.

Going off-axis & it changes to blue.

I think, as I said above, the aiming might be more important for FPV pilots, as they might be more likely to fly off-axis, & generally tending to fly closer & faster, further increasing the likelihood of being off-axis.

That, & if they use FPV goggles, that problem might be increased.

I can imagine that while using those goggles, maintaining balance without external visual cues, might be exacerbated if they have to keep turning, & I'm unsure if they can still see that same signal aiming feature.

Camera UAVs, tending to fly slower & farther away, would likely have less of the difficulty.

I've been wishing & thinking of some sort of collapsible/portable swivel-seat so that those that can't stand for long periods of time, would find it easier to swivel to keep their antenna aim on-axis.
Which green indicator?
 
Which green indicator?
It's the transmitter indicator, located in the lower left of the screen, that turns from blue to green when the antenna aim is pointed in the optimum direction to the drone for best signal strength.

Also, keep in mind, that the antennae should be oriented 90 degrees perpendicular to the drone, not pointed directly at the drone.

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It's the transmitter indicator, located in the lower left of the screen, that turns from blue to green when the antenna aim is pointed in the optimum direction to the drone for best signal strength.

Also, keep in mind, that the antennae should be oriented 90 degrees perpendicular to the drone, not pointed directly at the drone.

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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.
Great tip and very helpfull video link! I hadn't realized how to make the controller the center, to be able to clearly see the color change. The tiny little triangle on the circle was all I have had to work with, keeping it pointed at the drone in the compass area. The color change is much more visible!

I prefer the map view, and just keep the line to the drone vertical with North unlocked. Worked great in GO 4, where that line was a bright green color, as I recall. However, in Fly, the new faint red line between the drone and the RC is hardly visible on the map view in the corner.
 
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