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In ATTI it is off by default I believe. I presume your not going to beginner mode.Everyone thank you so much for all your input. @sar104 your graph's and calculations always impress me. One thing I'm unsure of is. How do I turn obstacle avoidance off while non P mode?
just as a generic comment - it is not an idiocy, just a bit lack of skill - so, to clarify what would be best - when you take off and go, every time you need to establish first the direction of the wind. best way to do it is to have a switch for the ATTI mode, so when you get drone up to the desired altitude - you switch to ATTI and then you will _see_ with your own eyes how fast and where it drifts.Hello
So flew my MP2 straight out. Flew out to 54% (yes I ignored low battery rth warning = yes I'm an idiot) in sport mode.
Now the I'm confused about apart from it dropping into a field at 0% in the fact that at 54% in turn 180 degrees and returned back to me. I noticed soon after turning 180 degrees the battery was depleting at a huge rate. 1% for every 2 seconds. It's it have a chance to get even close to the home point. Any ideas. Please don't keyboard bash me to much
to elaborate what said above - and it is also a general advice to everybody - have an ATTI swtich done. it is way more effective to go over long distance in ATTI, as, drone will not be spending power on fighting for position and stabilizing wind effects while you drive it where you want it to be. keep stock angle for P and ATTI modes, if you get to that level of params, as that angle is most power efficient one. modify sport mode angle and speed params only.In ATTI it is off by default I believe. I presume your not going to beginner mode.
Here’s a link to the full (70+ page) manual;
Sir, you are phenomenal!Connection was lost because the cell voltages collapsed, as expected:
View attachment 75890
That means it effectively fell from its last recorded point. Simulating the descent with the wind field calculated from the AirData aerodynamic model and using a reasonably accurate drag model for the Mavic produces the following:
View attachment 75892
On Google Earth, that maps as:
View attachment 75891
So yes - I'm afraid that it is almost certainly in the river.
On the main Go 4 screen tap the sensor icon or from the main controller settings page tap the second item down.Stupid question how do you turn the forward facing sensors off in P mode?
I need to check the flight log regarding wind speed etc. Battery had recently been charged. Was at 100 or 99% no less. As I said I know I'm an idiot. The rth warning is there for a very good reason. Lesson learnt there. That very interesting regarding getting better distance on P mode than on Sport mode.
Wow, as Maxwell Smart would say: "missed it by this much."Connection was lost because the cell voltages collapsed, as expected:
View attachment 75890
That means it effectively fell from its last recorded point. Simulating the descent with the wind field calculated from the AirData aerodynamic model and using a reasonably accurate drag model for the Mavic produces the following:
View attachment 75892
On Google Earth, that maps as:
View attachment 75891
So yes - I'm afraid that it is almost certainly in the river.
Question: how do you get wind speed from those flight log charts?
Comment: I'm not sure that increasing the speed when returning home is going to get you the most distance on whatever charge remains in the battery. Wind resistance goes up as the square of the drone's forward speed + wind speed. There is probably some simple algebra or calculus equation that would determine the optimum speed, but you'd have to know the energy/rpm/speed equations for the drone.
Question: how do you get wind speed from those flight log charts?
Comment: I'm not sure that increasing the speed when returning home is going to get you the most distance on whatever charge remains in the battery. Wind resistance goes up as the square of the drone's forward speed + wind speed. There is probably some simple algebra or calculus equation that would determine the optimum speed, but you'd have to know the energy/rpm/speed equations for the drone.
Ah right that could have been it
@sar104 any chance you could take a look?
Worth uploading fly record.
More than anything I'd like to learn from this experience and make sure I don't put my self in the same situation
Agree. When I push the hyperlapse time I always do it within 200 or so yards from home.I pushed my limits today with the M2P. I only pushed it because it was a hyperlapse on the way to the home point. I was at picture 180 when i got the notice and canceled that notice. told myself id stop at 200 of 250 pics. I did that and initiated RTH... on its way home, it said enough and stopped and started landing, luckily only 20 yards from home in a field. I interupted the forced landing sand flew it to the pad, barely. still had 5%. they dont fool around, head their RTH warnings, save your battery and shorten recharge time, which is useful for in-field charging with power packs.
I'm stunned that a M2P could burn through a battery to 18%, even in S mode, in 11 mins.
You have a 3Ah battery on the bird. Faster speed and extra activity increases amount of consumed current. Racing drone has roughly 5-7 min flight time as it can burn up to 60-80A while lipo can sustain it. Mavic at loiter burns about of 7-8A, similar during stock RTH mode. Sport mode pushes it closer to 14-17A max, on my drone at least. So, it means 2 time shorter flight time.As i surprised noticed in past, the sport-mode has an big impact to the Flight Air Time.
The linked example shows a battery usage of 77% in just 13 minutes even there was (almost) no wind.
It looks, the sport-mode should be used with care.
Nick, did you recover the craft ?????So basically lessons learnt are
- take note of low battery rth message / warning
- P mode would have probably beeny best friend
- check wind speeds / direction of wind speed
I didn't know any of that. This is really useful information. Thanks for posting this!You have a 3Ah battery on the bird. Faster speed and extra activity increases amount of consumed current. Racing drone has roughly 5-7 min flight time as it can burn up to 60-80A while lipo can sustain it. Mavic at loiter burns about of 7-8A, similar during stock RTH mode. Sport mode pushes it closer to 14-17A max, on my drone at least. So, it means 2 time shorter flight time.
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