Manual Takeoff using CSC has stopped working

[Stellarat]

Hi there,

I have just bought a second hand Mavic Air, yesterday I was able to manually takeoff by pulling in the controller sticks diagonally down and towards each other to get the motors started, and then throttling up. Today the motors won't start when I CSC, however automatic takeoff works fine.

The Status was green
I have made sure the Controller firmware is up to date using Assistant 2
I have re-calibrated the controller using GO4
I have re-calibrated the Mavic Air using Assistant 2
I have checked that I wasn't in Beginner Mode
I have restarted MA and Controller several times

I am a total noob with the MA so it's probably something silly, but I have read the manual and searched the forums and haven't found an answer.

Any ideas?

 

[msinger]

Which remote controller stick mode are you using?

 

[PLeg]

Hi Stellarat, for me if I want to manually start motors, I am always pulling the sticks straight down first and then apart, not toward each other and this always work
but I never tried other ways

 

[Stellarat]

"Which remote controller stick mode are you using?"
I am using the default Mode 2

" pulling the sticks straight down first and then apart, not toward each other and this always work "
Thanks for the tip, I think I have tried every combination but will try this again tonight.

 

[msinger]

If you aren't able to figure it out, then please upload your TXT flight log for the next flight where it does not work. If needed, you can find instructions for locating your TXT flight log here.

 

[PLeg]

An update to my post of yesterday, I try it this morning and as I have said yesterday I had never tried it other way, and now after trying to pull the sticks apart and toward each other... it's
working both ways, sorry!!!

 

[Stellarat]

Thanks for the tip, useful app!
This is what I see:


Is the "Starting Motors" shown only for Manual Takeoff or is it also shown for AutoTakeOff?
I'm guessing the GEO warning shouldn't make any difference - I was able to manually take off from the same place a couple of days ago.

 

[msinger]

Is the "Starting Motors" shown only for Manual Takeoff or is it also shown for AutoTakeOff?

You should always see that message.

I'm guessing the GEO warning shouldn't make any difference

Right. That shouldn't prevent you from manually taking off.

This is what I see

Got a link to that page?

 

[Stellarat]

Got a link to that page?

Apologies - did't think it would persist, two flights...
DJI Flight Log Viewer - PhantomHelp.com
DJI Flight Log Viewer - PhantomHelp.com

 

[Stellarat]

I also have a video of me trying to get it to work. There's a lot of glare of the screen but you should be able to make out that I tried the CSCs and neither worked, followed by a successful auto takeoff.
No manual takeoff.mp4

The version numbers for App and firmware are:
App: 4.3.14
Aircraft: 01.00.0560
Controller: 01.00.0200

Also, I tried the DJI Simulator with the controller and it worked fine.

Hope that's of some use?

 

[Stellarat]

I tried using the DJI Flight Simulator and starting and stopping the rotors and found that 70% it was not working. This led me to believe that it must be a controller calibration problem, so even though I had already tried it I went back in to calibration.

Moving the sticks to the CSC positions I did indeed find that the left stick wasn't always getting to 100% down.

I calibrated and this time just moved the sticks up, down and left right, i.e. not diagonally. The reason for this is it seems the diagonals give slightly higher readings than the orthoganals which seems odd as you would have thought they would be less if you move through a circle - but I guess it's actually more like a square.

After this calibration I can happily report that it is all working fine!

So thanks to all who have read and contributed to this thread, and sorry for wasting your time.

I suspect that this is all down to a couple of factors: a second hand controller being slightly worn, a new user being a bit tentative and not wanting to ram the sticks into the corners too hard.

This does make me wonder how the calibration works? I can understand it can reduce the reported reading if it starts getting readings that are two high, but how does it know it's getting a low reading that it needs to boost?