Mavic 2 Pro error?

[idave]

Hi there
Just wondering if anyone has seen this issue before.
Upgraded the firmware to the latest - few days later I went to fly and the gimbal/camera does not respond
and I get an error in the Go App - see attachments
How downgraded the firmware but no joy - although the firmware update may be just co-incidence.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Dave

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

No crashes?

I've never seen firmware upgrades do anything like this, so I very much doubt that's the issue.

Chris

 

[idave]

No crashes. The only past issues has been gimbal shake - when that happened I landed and restarted and it fixed it.
The gimbal does not go through its self check routine.

Dave

 

[Drone Master]

Have you tried a different USB cable? Almost seems like that maybe the problem.

 

[Paul2660]

I 2nd the idea of a different cable. Everything else looks good, just no image details and that would cable related. What is your controller, SC or stock controller with phone?

Also if you are using any type of holder on the controller for a phone make sure none of the buttons on the controller are depressed by the holder.

Paul C

 

[idave]

Yes have tried a couple of cables (including the original) and diff computers too.

Thanks

 

[Fizzbang]

Fully Charge the controller and drone battery/ies.

Whilst they are charging uninstall (Assistant 2) and the (Go 4 App) on any devices.
Download and install (Assistant 2 for Mavic ) onto a PC or MAC.
Reinstall a new download of the (Go 4 App).

With the controller fully charged connect it by wire to your PC or MAC.
(be careful to have the flat side of the USB C cable towards the bottom surface of the controller)(The curved side to the top surface)

Run (Assistant 2 for Mavic ) switch the controller on and update the controller firmware.
With a fully charged battery in the drone now connect the drone to the PC or MAC.
Run (Assistant 2 for Mavic ) switch the drone on and update the controller firmware. Ignore any warning messages about unable to read the USB device.

For both of the above you should see three phases
Download 0 to 100%
Transmit 0 to 100%
Update 0 to 100%
Hopefully you will see Update Complete and a Green tick.
You might also be asked to update flight zone data.

set up for flight without any blades and run the (Go 4 App)
Click on the controller icon top right (Remote Controller Settings)
Click on the Camera Icon with a bar above it (Gimbal Settings)
Click on (Gimbal Auto Calibration)

If you can do all of the above and get correct responses the gimbal should be working correctly.

If not let us know how to get on.

 

[idave]

Hi FB - thanks for the suggestions but I think I have a hardware fault as the gimbal doesn't even go through its self test routine on power up. Will have to send it away I think.
(All firmware is fully updated)

Dave

 

[Fizzbang]

All I can add is. I went there and did that. Finally I disassembled the gimbal and rebuilt it. Same result no gimbal dance.

I downloaded python and the dji tools software.
I ran the JointCoarse and the gimbal moved.
I ran LinearHall which tweaked the movement.

I then followed the procedure in post #7.
All functionality fully restored.

 

[idave]

Hi FB - am keen to try something else of course.
Not sure what the python and DJI tools software is? Can you explain.
Also I didn't realise you can connect the Mavic 2 Pro controller (I have the standard one) to a computer. The USB-C cable is the same on both sides (no flat side) and the port on the controller is USB-A.

One thing that may not have been clear is the video stream is not working either. I did reseat the gimbal cable just in case. Feels like a physical disconnection.

Thanks
Dave

 

[Fizzbang]

Firstly I need to correct my Error. I wrongly stated to use a [USB-C cable] with the controller.
The USB-C cable is used to connect the drone to a PC.
The RC Controller is connected to a computer with a [micro USB 2.0] cable.
DJI usually supply a small [micro USB 2.0] adapter to fit on the end of the [USB-C] cable


The [micro USB 2.0] plug is mostly flat but curved on the top face and only flat on the bottom face. (upside down in the picture above).
The Controller side port is rectangular (Not curved and flat) but the thin blade connector, inside the side port is offset towards the bottom, (with the controller siting display up on a flat surface).
ALWAYS be careful to orientate the [micro USB 2.0] plug with the flat side down when connecting to the side port of the controller. (Wrongly inserted the plug will damage the controller).

The port on the side of the RC controller is rectangular but will take a [micro USB 2.0] plug.
This is the port used to charge the controller.
(I don't know why DJI do not use a standard [micro USB 2.0] socket but they do not)

OK this is getting lengthy and complicated but its really quite simple.

From what you say (lack of video) it does sound like something physical but its best to eliminate all software issues first before dealing with the hardware. As an aside. Check out this thread and the links in it. It just shows that others have had the same issue.

I am surprised that you do/did not know that the RC controller should be connected to the computer and is the correct way to update the firmware.
The drone; the battery; and the RC controller; each have firmware which needs to be updated from time to time.
This can be done using the (Go 4 App) but sometimes there are inconsistencies and the (Go 4 App) itself should be updated.

In my case in September 2020 I missed this update
Mavic 2 Pro/Zoom Firmware Released (07/07/2020)
Overview:
Date: 2020.07.07
Aircraft Firmware: v01.00.0670
DJI GO 4 App iOS: v4.3.37
DJI GO 4 App Android: v4.3.36
And I had (Assistant 2) and not (Assistant 2 for Mavic).
My firmware updates failed and I had a none responsive gimbal.

I have explained in post #7 what needs to be done to ensure that the firmware is correctly updated but I will expand a little here based on your post #10 above.

Update the RC Controller firmware first by connecting the controller via the [micro USB 2.0] port to a PC
and running (Assistant 2 for Mavic ).
Switch on the controller which should be recognized by (Assistant 2 for Mavic ).
Ignore any USB error messages and wait for (Assistant 2 for Mavic ) to carry out three phases
Download 0 to 100%
Transmit 0 to 100%
Update 0 to 100%
Hopefully you will see Update Complete and a Green tick.

Update the drone next.
With a fully charged battery connect the drone to the PC with a [USB-C] cable.
Run (Assistant 2 for Mavic ) and switch on the drone. Update the drone firmware. (If the battery firmware needs updating the battery firmware will be updated along with the drone firmware.)
You might also be asked to update flight zone data.

If you have more than one battery you can repeat the above with each individual battery or wait and use the (Go 4 App) which should update any inconsistencies.


DJI tools are a set of software commands which can be sent to the drone. They are part of a collaborative github project.

There are two commands that are useful to you, JointCoarse; and LinearHall.
JointCoarse instructs the drone to move the camera to all of the extremes of the gimbal movement. This data is then stored in the gimbal firmware.
LinearHall uses the stored data to determine where the neutral at rest position should be and sets the working extremes. This is written back to the firmware.

Once both of the commands are executed the camera should be sitting level and ready to go.
See This video for their usage.

Just for good measure afterwards I use the Gimbal Calibration in the (Go 4 App) .

I am only an amateur but I have repaired four of these gimbals now but only two had physical defects and one was caused by my clumsiness whilst trying to reassemble.

Let us know how you get on and lets hope you will not have to disassemble the gimbal which has its own problems and risks.

 

[idave]

Hi FB
That is great info you have supplied. I'm learning new stuff!
After getting hold of my purchase documentation etc I have decided to have a go for a warranty repair before going any further as we have pretty good consumer support laws in our country. The drone will have to be sent away so it may take a while.
I have had some gimbal shake problems before this and your info will be useful if I have further probs.
Will update when I hear back. If not covered by warranty and is expensive to fix I will get it back and work on it my self (I did repairs on my original MP - including gimbal).

Thanks again for sharing the knowledge.

Dave

 

[Fizzbang]

Hi FB
That is great info you have supplied. I'm learning new stuff!
After getting hold of my purchase documentation etc I have decided to have a go for a warranty repair before going any further as we have pretty good consumer support laws in our country. The drone will have to be sent away so it may take a while.
I have had some gimbal shake problems before this and your info will be useful if I have further probs.
Will update when I hear back. If not covered by warranty and is expensive to fix I will get it back and work on it my self (I did repairs on my original MP - including gimbal).

Thanks again for sharing the knowledge.

Dave

That is sensible I suppose, I hope you do not need to, but like Arnie you will be back.

 

[idave]

Final update: (it has taken a while) Drone was sent to DJI (AU) through the place I bought it from. DJI never exactly said what the problem was but wanted to charge me 300 for repair as they only do 1 yr warranty. Fortunately the store was going to cover it but due to their inaction they have ended up by replacing it with a new (unopened) M Pro 2. Would have liked to know the what the actual fault was.

 

[Maviac]

Firstly I need to correct my Error. I wrongly stated to use a [USB-C cable] with the controller.
The USB-C cable is used to connect the drone to a PC.
The RC Controller is connected to a computer with a [micro USB 2.0] cable.
DJI usually supply a small [micro USB 2.0] adapter to fit on the end of the [USB-C] cable

View attachment 125610
The [micro USB 2.0] plug is mostly flat but curved on the top face and only flat on the bottom face. (upside down in the picture above).
The Controller side port is rectangular (Not curved and flat) but the thin blade connector, inside the side port is offset towards the bottom, (with the controller siting display up on a flat surface).
ALWAYS be careful to orientate the [micro USB 2.0] plug with the flat side down when connecting to the side port of the controller. (Wrongly inserted the plug will damage the controller).

The controller-side port is a Micro USB-A plug. It’s pretty rare - in fact, I’ve never seen one except on DJI controllers. I know there are technical reasons for this but given the ease that they can be damaged by inserting a Micro-B cable to charge (Micro-A cables are almost non-existent) this is a design flaw, in my opinion. I assume it was cheaper to go with that instead of USB-C but it’s annoying since the aircraft use USB-C.