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Discharge to low % and back up again might fix cell charge imbalance or "gas tank" miscalculation but that won't solve swelling. Actually it might make it worse.
The only thing I've found brings down the swelling is keeping them cool. But then when you use them, they heat up and swell.

Both latches have to be disengaged for the warning to come up. Only one unlatched won't do it. The problem is, it's easy to have only one side unlatched, especially if you have some swelling.
 
The recent firmware did include an additional check that the battery was fully seated, if it's tending to swell when it gets hot it could still conceivably pop the latch I guess.
It's clear that if you see any sign of swelling or difficulty latching in, it's unwise to continue to use that battery.
Yes definitely. Those things I didn't notice and I do check my drone before take off.
 
Discharge to low % and back up again might fix cell charge imbalance or "gas tank" miscalculation but that won't solve swelling. Actually it might make it worse.
The only thing I've found brings down the swelling is keeping them cool. But then when you use them, they heat up and swell.

Both latches have to be disengaged for the warning to come up. Only one unlatched won't do it. The problem is, it's easy to have only one side unlatched, especially if you have some swelling.
Looking at the data it shows nothing. A healthy drone ?.
 
It is possible for a battery to show signs of swelling, but otherwise seems fine electrically and in the logs. If the swelling is bad enough or in the right spot, it could unlatch and lose power contact. A power loss won't show as such specifically. It can't without power to radio back data.

I have a battery that has some swelling and now tends to unlatch on one side. However a hover test showed I maybe lost 2 minutes flight time and cells show balanced.
 
There have been a few supposedly 2019 batteries but not nearly as many produced 7-8/2018
Yes, but those few anecdotes I read were of "slight" swelling, which is very subjective, and definitely wasn't affecting the ability to properly latch the battery in place, unlike the 2018.07 and 2018.08 Production Dates. They also already had 100+ cycles, as I recall, and were consistently used in climates with extremely high heat and high humidity. I'll happily accept 100 cycles as a worst case scenario on any battery! M2 battery users really have nothing to worry about, unless they own 2018.07 or 2018.08 production dates.
 
It is possible for a battery to show signs of swelling, but otherwise seems fine electrically and in the logs. If the swelling is bad enough or in the right spot, it could unlatch and lose power contact. A power loss won't show as such specifically. It can't without power to radio back data.

I have a battery that has some swelling and now tends to unlatch on one side. However a hover test showed I maybe lost 2 minutes flight time and cells show balanced.
Yes, the swollen battery flight issues appear to be limited to proper fit and secure attachment, rather than any actual battery failure. The greater the swelling, the greater the possible expansion of the swelling when the gas expands during use, putting pressure on the latches, possibly disconnecting the battery. That's the main risk of flying with them. Best to retire them for warming up and satellite acquisition on the ground, and swap out for an unswollen regular battery before flight.
 
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That's what I did with my original 3 batteries. Battery one isn't too bad, you barely notice the swelling when at room temperature, but is more noticeable after flight. Battery 2 will latch but snug, especially after flight. Battery 3 is a bit worse, but left latch was always a bit weak. It can completely latch when cold but definitely unlatches on left after flight.
 
With regard to sensing the latches. I took my third battery apart which I ended up breaking the wires to the latch switches. Now it reports unlatched so its definitively closed circuit latched, open circuit, not latched.
Then with a good battery pressed on a latch button, one at a time but not pulling up where the other latch might also get pressed. Either one would trigger the warning.
However if I **** the battery so that only one latch is engaged, it doesn't sense it. I suspect the latch doesn't get pressed far enough with only one disengaged.
 
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