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Greg Peter

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Hey guys,

I just bought the standard polar 6 piece nd filters. I put the nd 16 on the Mavic Air. I pressed auto, I saw the shutter speed and ISO. I then went to Manual adjust everything.

If I point to the sun, I get these white black lines on the screen around the sun. When I stop recording and look at the footage, of course the lines are not there.

I haven’t bought the 32 or 64 yet, but will these lines always be there?

I tested it out with adding the 16, and then increased the shutter speed to the highest. Of course it got very dark, and when I pointed to the sun, it still had these black and white lines on the sun.

How do we take away these black and white lines, and what nd filter is good for strong sunny days?

And what filter is good for sunsets?

Best
Greg
 
B&W lines are probably overexposure warning.
Can be turned off in camera settings.

Test filters in various light situations, but I find in harsh Aussie summer sun if I have to film say between 1000 and 1500, I would try an ND 32.
Usually use ND 4 or 8 for blue and golden hours.
 
Hey guys,

I just bought the standard polar 6 piece nd filters. I put the nd 16 on the Mavic Air. I pressed auto, I saw the shutter speed and ISO. I then went to Manual adjust everything.

If I point to the sun, I get these white black lines on the screen around the sun. When I stop recording and look at the footage, of course the lines are not there.

I haven’t bought the 32 or 64 yet, but will these lines always be there?

I tested it out with adding the 16, and then increased the shutter speed to the highest. Of course it got very dark, and when I pointed to the sun, it still had these black and white lines on the sun.

How do we take away these black and white lines, and what nd filter is good for strong sunny days?

And what filter is good for sunsets?

Best
Greg
Hi Greg!

The white zebra lines are an over exposure warning; they are basically telling you that part of the shot will be over exposed. When you get these overexposure stripes, increase your shutter speed gradually till they are mostly gone. You can also keep an eye on the EV value which is another important indicator. Most of the time you are aiming at an EV value between -0.7 to + 0.3; an EV value of 0 is of course ideal. When the camera is on auto, it will try to keep this EV value on 0 by decreasing or increasing the shutter speed and iso. But when it in manual mode, you have to make the adjustments yourself. If you are filming in day light hours, it is better to leave the ISO at 100 and adjust the shutter speed till your EV value is a little less or more than 0. Having said that, you will always have areas that are either under or over exposed or both when flying directly towards the sun. So I would fly with the sun at an angle or I would point the camera down wards if I was you.

Now ND filters are a totally different matter. The purpose of an ND filter is enable you record video at a shutter speed that is twice your frame rate. This makes the footage cinematic, or pleasant to look at. So if you want to use an ND filter properly, your shutter speed is determined by the frame rate you are recording at. If you are recording in 4k @ 30fps, your shutter speed needs to be 1/60. What ND filter you use depends on the time of day and the amount of light. If it is morning and evening either an ND8 or an ND16 will be enough. If it is a very bright day, then an ND32 will be needed. The brighter the day, the darker the ND filter needs to be in order to allow you to record at that set shutter speed.

If you are new to all of this, I would suggest that you forget about ND filters for the moment and read practice with manual exposure settings for a while. Play with the shutter speed and learn how to properly expose the picture by using the over exposure warning, the EV value, and the histogram as indicators. Once you have sufficiently mastered manual exposure settings; then you can start to learn about ND filters. Good luck!
 
How do we take away these black and white lines
You can disable the Over Exposure Warning setting in the following section of DJI GO:

72102
 
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B&W lines are probably overexposure warning.
Can be turned off in camera settings.

Test filters in various light situations, but I find in harsh Aussie summer sun if I have to film say between 1000 and 1500, I would try an ND 32.
Usually use ND 4 or 8 for blue and golden hours.

Thanks a million that really helped ?
 
Hi Greg!

The white zebra lines are an over exposure warning; they are basically telling you that part of the shot will be over exposed. When you get these overexposure stripes, increase your shutter speed gradually till they are mostly gone. You can also keep an eye on the EV value which is another important indicator. Most of the time you are aiming at an EV value between -0.7 to + 0.3; an EV value of 0 is of course ideal. When the camera is on auto, it will try to keep this EV value on 0 by decreasing or increasing the shutter speed and iso. But when it in manual mode, you have to make the adjustments yourself. If you are filming in day light hours, it is better to leave the ISO at 100 and adjust the shutter speed till your EV value is a little less or more than 0. Having said that, you will always have areas that are either under or over exposed or both when flying directly towards the sun. So I would fly with the sun at an angle or I would point the camera down wards if I was you.

Now ND filters are a totally different matter. The purpose of an ND filter is enable you record video at a shutter speed that is twice your frame rate. This makes the footage cinematic, or pleasant to look at. So if you want to use an ND filter properly, your shutter speed is determined by the frame rate you are recording at. If you are recording in 4k @ 30fps, your shutter speed needs to be 1/60. What ND filter you use depends on the time of day and the amount of light. If it is morning and evening either an ND8 or an ND16 will be enough. If it is a very bright day, then an ND32 will be needed. The brighter the day, the darker the ND filter needs to be in order to allow you to record at that set shutter speed.

If you are new to all of this, I would suggest that you forget about ND filters for the moment and read practice with manual exposure settings for a while. Play with the shutter speed and learn how to properly expose the picture by using the over exposure warning, the EV value, and the histogram as indicators. Once you have sufficiently mastered manual exposure settings; then you can start to learn about ND filters. Good luck!

Thank you very very very much for your extended explanation. This community is amazing and I’m very greatful to have people like you in this community. Have a wonderful weekend

Best
Greg ??☀️☀️
 
Thank you very very very much for your extended explanation. This community is amazing and I’m very greatful to have people like you in this community. Have a wonderful weekend

Best
Greg ??☀☀
You are quite welcome! And yes, this is a great community. I learned everything I needed to know in this forum. You will too, just look around and don't be afraid to ask questions.
 
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You are quite welcome! And yes, this is a great community. I learned everything I needed to know in this forum. You will too, just look around and don't be afraid to ask questions.


Can I ask one more question?
Does Mavic Air have the Fixed Wing Mode, and if not is it coming ?
Cheers
Greg
 
Unfortunately no. The Mavic Air doesn't do that. Does the M2P also have a fixed wing mode?

Edit: tapfly on the mavic air may be the closest thing what you want.
 
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