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Mavic Mini prop has unstable shape ?

If increased rear motor speed was due to AC geometry, then swapping props would have no effect. The speed after swap would still show rear ones faster, since the cause would not have changed.

So if motor speed has changed, then it would have to be the props.
A proper test would be to go back and forth a few times to rule out errors in the tests. That's not a good idea though since the props are screwed in, adding to potential variables such as screws not down tight enough or too tight, slight angle, danger of cross-threading, etc.
 
Cross threading would be the bigger concern. The proper torque will be an indicator of the experience of the tool operator.
 
your data pretty much confirmed others’ decisions. It is a waste of money & time, if one cares exceeding the 249g weight limit.
 
In Greek forums quite a few people exchange the original props of the mini with the spares that they got and that seems to stop the "Not enough force/esc error" that the were getting previously even without wind.
 
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OPA !

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Well, here is my 4 cents worth, because I have 2 Mini’s. One is early production (I bought the first one I could find) and the other is post revision (changed how the battery plug is supported in the drone). ALL of my prop numbers begin with the letter A or B (clockwise or counterclockwise) and they all have a sloppy fit when installed - some more sloppy/loose than others. The first flight with the Mini was impressive - not on par with my Anafi’s but I was very impressed!
After flying about 5 hours I thought it was more noisy and not as stable/calm hovering and flying slowly. So, more hours flying and more attention? ? ? A couple of weeks ago someone wrote here about a similar situation. After reading that, I examined my props closely and concluded that some of them were without a doubt deformed. They all went directly into the garbage can.
I do most of my flying in S mode, I fly when it’s windy and this time of the year, here in Rio, it is often 40° more than 100°F. These could all be contributing factors as well?
I have been thinking about the CG being incorrect for some time. Always believing that DJI must have got that right. I removed the battery cover door (that’s easy) and thought it gave an improvement. I think it needs more...
One week ago I met a person with a new Mini flying it for the first time. His prop numbers began with the letters E and F. Looks like a 3rd generation. His props were loose but certainly a better fit than mine. Does any other DJI drones have SLOPPY fitting props? NO!
I examined all of my new props. The leading edge is like a signwave (like an S). The trailing edge is like a gentle curve OR almost straight. They ARE NOT consistent in their shapes. They should be!
About being deformed in the case? I imagine that could be possible. I am a meticulous person and NEVER put my MM into the case without great attention to the props.
The DJI person “said”. WELL, their job is to “say” ??. If they didn’t they would be walking down the street talking to themselves or working in some back office.
If the CG is wrong, the rear motors would have to run faster and increase the pressure placed on very flexible propellers of, at this point, a questionable design.
 
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Well, here is my 4 cents worth, because I have 2 Mini’s. One is early production (I bought the first one I could find) and the other is post revision (changed how the battery plug is supported in the drone). ALL of my prop numbers begin with the letter A or B (clockwise or counterclockwise) and they all have a sloppy fit when installed - some more sloppy/loose than others. The first flight with the Mini was impressive - not on par with my Anafi’s but I was very impressed!
After flying about 5 hours I thought it was more noisy and not as stable/calm hovering and flying slowly. So, more hours flying and more attention? ? ? A couple of weeks ago someone wrote here about a similar situation. After reading that, I examined my props closely and concluded that some of them were without a doubt deformed. They all went directly into the garbage can.
I do most of my flying in S mode, I fly when it’s windy and this time of the year, here in Rio, it is often 40° more than 100°F. These could all be contributing factors as well?
I have been thinking about the CG being incorrect for some time. Always believing that DJI must have got that right. I removed the battery cover door (that’s easy) and thought it gave an improvement. I think it needs more...
One week ago I met a person with a new Mini flying it for the first time. His prop numbers began with the letters E and F. Looks like a 3rd generation. His props were loose but certainly a better fit than mine. Does any other DJI drones have SLOPPY fitting props? NO!
I examined all of my new props. The leading edge is like a signwave (like an S). The trailing edge is like a gentle curve OR almost straight. They ARE NOT consistent in their shapes. They should be!
About being deformed in the case? I imagine that could be possible. I am a meticulous person and NEVER put my MM into the case without great attention to the props.
The DJI person “said”. WELL, their job is to “say” ??. If they didn’t they would be walking down the street talking to themselves or working in some back office.
If the CG is wrong, the rear motors would have to run faster and increase the pressure placed on very flexible propellers of, at this point, a questionable design.
Hi, can you please post some pictures of the ‘changed how the battery plug is supported in the drone’, I’d very much like to see the two versions
 
Regarding prop wear and change out interval: has anyone correlated flight hours (minutes) to the needed time change or are you just basing replacement based on performance and visual inspection? If this is a wear item (which it presumably is) it would be good to have a PREDICTIVE time frame/value to replace before flight stability issues arise. If this was mentioned earlier, I apologize. SAR or anyone collecting and analyzing data, have you guys looked at this?

I see the earlier post indicating issues at about plus 5.0 hours but am interested in if this is the mean or not.
 
Regarding prop wear and change out interval: has anyone correlated flight hours (minutes) to the needed time change or are you just basing replacement based on performance and visual inspection? If this is a wear item (which it presumably is) it would be good to have a PREDICTIVE time frame to replace before flight stability issues arise. If this was mentioned earlier, I apologize. SAR or anyone collecting and analyzing data, have you guys looked at this?

I haven't - most people posting don't seem to be tracking prop usage. It would be an interesting study. It would be better if DJI had conducted such a study before releasing the Mini.
 
I'm not seeing much difference. All I see is posts in the plastic on 1 and plastic "shelf" on 2. Can't see how that would do anything.
 
I'm not seeing much difference. All I see is posts in the plastic on 1 and plastic "shelf" on 2. Can't see how that would do anything.
i think its an attempt to align the battery as it is pushed into the drone, and also to stop it moving from side to side during flight, to prevent damage to the connector pins
 
Are you saying the cavity is tighter?
The only two items that secure the battery is the cavity the battery slides into and the latch on the battery to the chassis. The battery door has little to do with it, and I don't see any difference in battery latch to chassis.
 
Does it seem like there's any difference in how securely it locks in? I have the original version and it seems to lock in there pretty securely. No play at all.

The difference is that in the new version, there is this part to ensure the alignment between the connector on the battery side and that on the craft side.

1582102436281.png
 
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I haven't - most people posting don't seem to be tracking prop usage. It would be an interesting study. It would be better if DJI had conducted such a study before releasing the Mini.

I have just applied a thin coating of JB Weld Bond to one pair of DJI MM props. I’ll let it cure, and coat the undersides as well. I’m planning on a hover test over the weekend.

Still no receipt of the CF props.

Glenn
 
The difference is that in the new version, there is this part to ensure the alignment between the connector on the battery side and that on the craft side.

View attachment 94457

I get that but I don't see any movement at all with the battery fit on my Mini which doesn't have the guides.

Maybe this has to do with the Japanese version of the battery. From what I understand, it uses the same shell but in order to meet the 200g weight limit in Japan, it only has one cell in it. I can imagine that would make the shell somewhat less solid than the two cell version. Maybe some engineer realized it could be an issue after the first manufacturing run and decided to add the guides.

Ah well. Pure speculation on my part. :)
 
I'm pretty sure the Japanese version is 2 cell, but lighter cells with less capacity. I can't otherwise see having two versions of Mini with different input voltages.
1S = 3.7v average
2S = 7.2v average

However it's possible the battery latch is narrower for the Japanese version so that you can't use a non-Japanese version as the blocks would block full insertion.
 
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