The front left motor wires in the Mavic can be close enough to the front compass attachment point to generate compass errors. I found that out after replacing my ESC board. I'm not sure how they are routed stock cause I didn't take note before pulling it out.
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I tried a few things to stop the compass issues I’m having…I started looking into it and noticed it said compass error in the go app and the RC said “Mag Interference”. Also in the go app a warning kept coming up “Compass redundancy switch” (I think that means its switching between compass 1 and 2 IDK) so I looked at the compasses in the sensors and both of them had an error “Abnormal Compass Dire”…I bought a spare compass with the intentions of seeing if I can modify the wiring and moving the position of it but before I started that I decided to try wrapping the battery in foam and copper tape. At first when I hooked it back up the error wasn’t there and I was thinking it worked until I wrapped the Velcro zip tie to the battery to pull it tight to the Mavic then it came back. So that gave me an idea and I noticed when I pulled the battery away from the bottom of the bird the compass error would go away and when I got it closer it would come back. So ultimately putting a 5mm thick piece of foam between the bird and the battery was enough to get rid of the error. I may take all the copper tape and insulation off and add another piece of 5mm piece of foam to give it a little more distance away from the bird…
Some interesting magnetic interference testing:
Also:
Magnesium for light weight. I use aluminum tape to make that shield wider all around. I do know that without the Mg plate, less satellites are acquired so I figure a little more area might be good.I wonder what the plate that's under the compass is made of? The new one came with that plate too.
Maybe your batteries are off center in a way that is causing one set of motors to draw more current and thus throw off the compass.
It was petty ugly out today like flying in a cloud but I managed to get an over in a hover with this battery. I wasn't planing on hovering but the compass error appeared
.When i would face away from home id have the compass error and towards home it would go away. I think because of it fighting the wind. I ordered Magnetic shielding film MCF5 to see if i can do anything. .
It was petty ugly out today like flying in a cloud but I managed to get an over 46min hover with this battery. I wasn't planing on hovering but the compass error appeared so instead of chancing losing the bird i thought id keep it close by. MAN is that one of the most boring things you can do for 46min! If i had a knife i may have stabbed myself. I think it was actually a little longer maybe another min because i landed once and air data split it into 2 flights but yeah at least 46min hover. I know a 6500rpm hover is a lot different then a 7500rpm flight but still not too bad.
http://app.airdata.com/main?share=qaYUFn...When i would face away from home id have the compass error and towards home it would go away. I think because of it fighting the wind. I ordered some of this to see if i can do anything. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4D8GZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ...
3 x Mavic battery mod 11490mAh. Weight 633.6g.
Think not good top on mavic battery. Under the vps with battery mod but mavic pro under hot and fan air touch to battery mod?
11.5Ah plus 3.8Ah stock battery?3 x Mavic battery mod 11490mAh. Weight 633.6g.
Think not good top on mavic battery. Under the vps with battery mod but mavic pro under hot and fan air touch to battery mod?
11.5Ah plus 3.8Ah stock battery?
Under mount is better and heat into the external is actually a good thing. If your ESC temps go up you can pop the rear light cover off and the screens behind the stock vents to get airflow across the circuit boards.
XT30 connectors would save you significant weight and space.
The screens are behind the rear vents beside the tail light.
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