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MOTOR SPEED ERROR MAVIC MINI

That you said you arent convinced heat has to do with anything makes me want to give up on you having an open mind. Of course heat would greatly affect a piece of plastic with warping.
 
I current have 2 space heaters going in my small bathroom and a laser temp gun. But im not yet capable of getting the temps in there up to 170°F. not even close. 105°F is best i can do as far as ambient temp but im gonna work on seeing how close I can put other plastic items to the heat source get the plasic temp up to 17020210103_193619.jpg20210103_193619.jpg
 

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I'm just gonna let the pics and video do all the explanation. If you keep in mind that the entire head of the drone cut out in the case from motor cut outs to nose tip is the same flat level in the case Notice where the ridge starts and stops as well. Just as it sits on this flat mirror is as it would sit in a flat bottom case if it needed to as in such case as I have. As far as the props are concerned it might as well be a totally flat case just like my flat bottom MPP Fly more case I modified and use for the Mini. Theres nothing more that the flatness of the bottom of the case can do than this flat mirror, EVEN IF IT REACHED but it doesnt even.. Then as you can see the that grey tape on the mirror would be where that raised edge/red line starts and stops. Any other way of folding them than directly across as you see will bend them at all random places depending on they lay each time. Start out with the design of the case and drone body lines. The red mark represents the grey tape i used. Blades running directly under motors precisely. The raise in the case is 1/2 inch. The motors and prps and velcro thickness only 1/4 inch. The props never touch bottom in the fly more case this way. What all this means is that ANY OTHER WAY is bad news






https://youtu.be/V8TXJyoI4WU
 
I put a velcro strip on top and bottom and I don't intertwine them a certain way, so all the tips get equally bent but just slightly. Apparently not enough im not squeezing them together im just slightly wrapping them just enough to keep them in place
But, keeping them in place crossed laterally is what's bending the blades. You're bending the tip of the blade from its undeflected position, all the way down to touching the motor bell. That's a lot more than "just slightly" bent.

Undeflected.jpg

This is unassisted without the velcro. See how both the right and the left still sticks up depending on which side I tuck?
Right over left, or left over right, whichever blade is forced underneath is the one being bent. If you alternate, folding them one way one time, then the other way next time, it just means both sides will eventually end up equally bent, rather than only one side.

That's my whole point. The way they're shipped, and the way DJI recommends storing them per the label in the bottom of the Fly More Case, shows the left-rear blades bent to fold under the right-rear. If you always store them that way, or if they've been stored that way for a long time before delivery to you, that's why it's almost always the left-rear motor that first triggers the Motor Speed warning.

That you said you aren't convinced heat has to do with anything makes me want to give up on you having an open mind. Of course heat would greatly affect a piece of plastic with warping.
That's not what I said. Heat alone likely has nothing to do with it. If you store the blades straight, they're not likely to ever sag under their own weight. But if you store the blades bent AND apply heat, then they're much more likely to remain bent when removed from storage.

Of course if you apply enough heat any plastic will melt. Like these guys trying to dry out their DJI Phantom after it fell into a lake. They put it into an oven. :oops:

Melted.jpg
 
But, keeping them in place crossed laterally is what's bending the blades. You're bending the tip of the blade from its undeflected position, all the way down to touching the motor bell. That's a lot more than "just slightly" bent.

View attachment 120842


Right over left, or left over right, whichever blade is forced underneath is the one being bent. If you alternate, folding them one way one time, then the other way next time, it just means both sides will eventually end up equally bent, rather than only one side.

That's my whole point. The way they're shipped, and the way DJI recommends storing them per the label in the bottom of the Fly More Case, shows the left-rear blades bent to fold under the right-rear. If you always store them that way, or if they've been stored that way for a long time before delivery to you, that's why it's almost always the left-rear motor that first triggers the Motor Speed warning.


That's not what I said. Heat alone likely has nothing to do with it. If you store the blades straight, they're not likely to ever sag under their own weight. But if you store the blades bent AND apply heat, then they're much more likely to remain bent when removed from storage.

Of course if you apply enough heat any plastic will melt. Like these guys trying to dry out their DJI Phantom after it fell into a lake. They put it into an oven. :oops:

View attachment 120841
Can't fix stupid
 
I'm just gonna let the pics and video do all the explanation. [...]
Those pics and videos show that improperly positioning the prop blades into the Fly More Case, in such a way that the blades rest onto the raised ridge in the bottom of the case, will certainly bend the blades. Of course. That's perfectly obvious.

Even without wrapping them in velcro, as long as the blades are crossed laterally to hang into the depression ahead of that raised central portion, they still won't touch the bottom and the weight of the Mini will not rest onto the blade tips because the belly of the Mini is raised and supported by that 1/2" raised block.

But what I've been saying all along is the rear blades must bend when forced to fold together over/under each other. Whether or not anything is then used to keep them crossed, merely crossing the blades is what's bending them.

Your photo above shows the tips of your undeflected new blades standing high, but then they're bent waaaay down to fit under the opposite side's blades whenever they're crossed.

The last video you posted, quoted here, shows how easily your rear blades now slip over/under each other to nest in the crossed position. New blades cannot do that without forcing the tips from one side to bend down to fit under the opposite side.
 
What do you see that pertains? Those back motors look as if they are angled forward for the hoke shot. If the motors don't have to be exact front and back then its very likely the props don't have to be exact either. Because im telling you mine are as if not just as strong as any
 
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