NanoSync Antenna for DJI Mavic Coming Soon

[Samuelson]

Same result mate.
Guess the RC is knackered.
It wouldn't have messed up the mavic would it??
Will have to try and find a cheap replacement.
Thanks for trying to help.

 

[MrsTreat]

Same result mate.
Guess the RC is knackered.
It wouldn't have messed up the mavic would it??
Will have to try and find a cheap replacement.
Thanks for trying to help.

Sorry to hear this.

 

[sprtbkrydr]

Same result mate.
Guess the RC is knackered.
It wouldn't have messed up the mavic would it??
Will have to try and find a cheap replacement.
Thanks for trying to help.

@Samuelson
If it were me I would open that rc back up and check the mod wiring. You might have one side that's either not plugged in good or even unplugged. Remember you said that you could only get one side to show green. It's worth a chance nothing to loose now. keep us updated as to what you find.

 

[mel69hash]

Hi can someone advice me of turning ON sequence for DIY amplified Nanosync on Mavic pro. Thx in advance.

 

[mel69hash]

With Sunhans 2.4ghz on Power bank.

 

[UBCNME]

Hi can someone advice me of turning ON sequence for DIY amplified Nanosync on Mavic pro. Thx in advance.

NEVER switch on your remote without the boosters unpowered. So always , i say again, NEVER switch on your remote without the boosters unpowered. So always booster ON remote ON. Remote OFF boosters OFF ON remote ON. Remote OFF boosters OFF

 

[sprtbkrydr]

NEVER switch on your remote without the boosters unpowered

Didn't you mean to say "powered" instead of "unpowered"?? Even though it does not matter since they are not in a transmit state unless both the RC and the AC both are turned on.

 

[cderoche]

NEVER switch on your remote without the boosters unpowered. So always , i say again, NEVER switch on your remote without the boosters unpowered. So always booster ON remote ON. Remote OFF boosters OFF ON remote ON. Remote OFF boosters OFF

Ouch my head hurts! lol
This must be how it feels to be a computer! on off on off 1 0 1 01 10 10 10 10 10

 

[mel69hash]

NEVER switch on your remote without the boosters unpowered. So always , i say again, NEVER switch on your remote without the boosters unpowered. So always booster ON remote ON. Remote OFF boosters OFF ON remote ON. Remote OFF boosters OFF

Noted and Thanks buddy

 

[kwatts]

To add my experience/more noise to the channel, I installed a NanoSync and range is ****. I was another of the unfortunate ones that received two of the same short antenna cables, and worse, I think I did damage to the left antenna/side trying to get it to work. After taking it out the first time, with the smaller antenna, few hundred feet out and the radio signal would drop completely. The right antenna/video signal was strong with no bars dropped.

I reached out to MAXX support and they said they now send only "long" antenna cables and this was mistake. They sent me a replacement antenna kit, and after taking the controller apart - again - and putting the long antenna cable for the left it seemed to help, slightly, was able to get out max 1500ft before the radio signal dropped completely.

I will say support is great (Jake @Maxx UAV). He even sent me a replacement Nano to see if that would fix the problem, and sadly got the same results. It's the suck. I'm going to try some boosters that I had and see if it will help. Otherwise, my advice to others would be to stick with stock.


-Kevin

 

[CyberNate]

To add my experience/more noise to the channel, I installed a NanoSync and range is ****. I was another of the unfortunate ones that received two of the same short antenna cables, and worse, I think I did damage to the left antenna/side trying to get it to work. After taking it out the first time, with the smaller antenna, few hundred feet out and the radio signal would drop completely. The right antenna/video signal was strong with no bars dropped.

I reached out to MAXX support and they said they now send only "long" antenna cables and this was mistake. They sent me a replacement antenna kit, and after taking the controller apart - again - and putting the long antenna cable for the left it seemed to help, slightly, was able to get out max 1500ft before the radio signal dropped completely.

I will say support is great (Jake @Maxx UAV). He even sent me a replacement Nano to see if that would fix the problem, and sadly got the same results. It's the suck. I'm going to try some boosters that I had and see if it will help. Otherwise, my advice to others would be to stick with stock.


-Kevin

Go to digdat0 YouTube channel and look for his video on changing controller power for fcc and boosted 1.5w mode. I use the 1.5w mode and it works great with stock antennas and even better with externals like the Nanosync.

 

[cderoche]

Go to digdat0 YouTube channel and look for his video on changing controller power for fcc and boosted 1.5w mode. I use the 1.5w mode and it works great with stock antennas and even better with externals like the Nanosync.

I thought about doing the 1.5w boost trick with mine, does the distance flying with the external packs cause things to overheat? Remote or aircraft?

 

[CyberNate]

I thought about doing the 1.5w boost trick with mine, does the distance flying with the external packs cause things to overheat? Remote or aircraft?

I run 1.5w boost exclusively on all 3 of my controllers. No longer use my external amps. No issues.

 

[cderoche]

I run 1.5w boost exclusively on all 3 of my controllers. No longer use my external amps. No issues.

Awesome, I need to boost mine, might help me with the interference I get. Which one do you use? 2.4-2.475ghz, 2.33ghz or 2.57ghz?

 

[MacIak]

I run 1.5w boost exclusively on all 3 of my controllers. No longer use my external amps. No issues.

I thought that this thing is App (Go4) related, not remote?
Edit: any noticeable extra power consumption on the bird-side? I will give this a try as soon as i have more urgent stuff sorted out.

 

[cderoche]

Does anyone know if @digdat0 1.5w boost trick works on the latest DJI Go 4 on IOS 11? Can't trust using my Android phone flying long distance, apps of many varieties crash for me. (patched, stock, older, latest etc.)

 

[kwatts]

Does anyone know if @digdat0 1.5w boost trick works on the latest DJI Go 4 on IOS 11? Can't trust using my Android phone flying long distance, apps of many varieties crash for me. (patched, stock, older, latest etc.)

I think it does, dji.retroroms.info/howto/dji_configs shows it working to 4.1.12 which is pretty **** recent.

I'm giving this a go on the Android version, know what you mean about stability but it's easy to modify the DJI app and do these sort of mods. I'm trying the 1.5w per @CyberNate suggest and will report back. I tried attaching a 2016 Sunhans eSunRc 3W 2.4GHz mini-Wifi Signal Booster to the radio signal/transmitting side (left) and for some reason it crushed the signal strength, app was showing it to be half bars? After taking it off back to full bars. Anyone know what what cause this?

 

[cderoche]

I put the config file in the ipad in the DJI Go 4 app, I assume its working, Mavic doesn't seem to be any hotter, and the file disappears as soon as its copied to the app folder. I guess because of the type of file it is. I don't have an RF power meter so I don't know for sure its working. If it helps me fight the interference at distance even a little it will be awesome.

 

[MacIak]

I think............I tried attaching a 2016 Sunhans eSunRc 3W 2.4GHz mini-Wifi Signal Booster to the radio signal/transmitting side (left) and for some reason it crushed the signal strength, app was showing it to be half bars? After taking it off back to full bars. Anyone know what what cause this?

You mean you attached a sunhans AND had the 1.5w mod at the same time??
If that the case it s logical your signal went apeshlt, the booster cannot handle this. Max it can take is around normal FCC output (=input for booster). Might be busted now.

I put the config file in the ipad in the DJI Go 4 app, I assume its working, Mavic doesn't seem to be any hotter, and the file disappears as soon as its copied to the app folder. I guess because of the type of file it is. I don't have an RF power meter so I don't know for sure its working. If it helps me fight the interference at distance even a little it will be awesome.

You will not be able to measure the bird side temperature couse it will increase power as the signal gets weaker up to a maximum. You could try to put the bird inside something that nearly kills signal and see if it gets warm then..
The RC side does transmit full strength constantly regardless the signal strength so fairly easy to determine overheat issues.

 

[cderoche]

You mean you attached a sunhans AND had the 1.5w mod at the same time??
If that the case it s logical your signal went apeshlt, the booster cannot handle this. Max it can take is around normal FCC output (=input for booster). Might be busted now.



You will not be able to measure the bird side temperature couse it will increase power as the signal gets weaker up to a maximum. You could try to put the bird inside something that nearly kills signal and see if it gets warm then..
The RC side does transmit full strength constantly regardless the signal strength so fairly easy to determine overheat issues.

I've only had time to fly once since trying the 1.5w mod, I might be able to tell just from flying my normal long distance runs. From that one run it seems like I was able to fly a little farther and not having to go as high to go so far. For these long distance run every tweak helps. Its too bad there isn't something in the app or data log that shows max rx/tx power output.