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Night time video, 24 or 30FPS?

hidaven

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I read where lower frame rate lets in more light.....True?
Also, should there be a cap on ISO with potential noise?
 
Ok, does it matter that the FPS is 24 and the shutter is at 50??
 
When you say does it matter. Well yes it matters. View the onscreen video feed to determine light levels when adjusting FPS and Shutter Speed. Then adjust as necessary to let in either more or less light depending on the subject you are trying to capture.

Also for pictures and not video you can experiment with Long Exposure shots by having the Mavic Pro's camera keep the shutter open for a longer duration and thus capturing alot more light from objects.
 
Always keep in mind the 180 rule for video. So if your FPS is 24 you would use the closest shutter speed to 48 (24x2) as possible which would be 50 in the Mavics case.. If you're asking if it matters that you can only get to 50 and not 48, the answer is no. 50 is perfectly capable.

As far as frame rates go, it all depends on the "look" you want. 24fps is a stand in film to create the most natural looking motion blur, 30 being a good mix between smooth motion and natural blur and 60 being very smooth and life like. Up to what you are looking for. But 24fps at a 1/50 shutter will be perfectly fine and bring in more light along with playing with your aperture and ISO.

Have fun!
 
Ok, does it matter that the FPS is 24 and the shutter is at 50??
Yes, you're not gaining anything then. If you want to gain then use the fact you're shooting at 24/25 to set your shutter to 1/25.

Always keep in mind the 180 rule for video.
That's terrible advice since it doesn't matter in most cases - and this one is where it matters the least. You have MUCH more to gain by having an extra stop of light at night than an unnoticeable difference in motion blur.
 
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Yes, you're not gaining anything then. If you want to gain then use the fact you're shooting at 24/25 to set your shutter to 1/25.


That's terrible advice since it doesn't matter in most cases - and this one is where it matters the least. You have MUCH more to gain by having an extra stop of light at night than an unnoticeable difference in motion blur.


*facepalm*
 
Hi all, just wondering how fast the FAA provides waivers for night time flights. I'd love to do some video and photography in some of the more scenic areas here past sunset.
 
Hi all, just wondering how fast the FAA provides waivers for night time flights. I'd love to do some video and photography in some of the more scenic areas here past sunset.

I believe you're supposed to give them 90 days for approval. I don't know that it will take that long, but that's time frame the FAA gives. I'm sure someone more experienced in that could confirm or correct this.
 
I see everyone quoting the 180 degree shutter "rule" , but not mentioning that it only applies in that it is a midpoint between "smooth" and "choppy" when it comes to motion blur in *most* cases. There is no RULE to what you can do creatively....maybe you want choppy motion/less motion blur? Maybe you want it smoother than normal, so you bump the frame rate down further. Maybe there is a lot of fast motion and even 2 x FPS is still too much? Maybe you're doing a *slow* move and you want to let more light into the lens - you wouldn't notice motion blur anyway because you aren't moving that much(to a certain point, though...)?

It should be noted that in film, which is traditionally shot at 24p, it's entirely ok to shoot at 1/25 shutter if there is really fast motion in your shot. Old school tilts & pans on a tripod at 24p 1/48 look horrible and jumpy if you move the camera too fast, but sometimes you needed the pan to finish quick and still look ok. In that case, you kick the shutter down to smooth things out. Sure, you lose detail, but your eyeballs don't feel like jumping out of your skull. And again, maybe you WANT it to be choppy to make the audience feel a certain way...these are creative decisions. Its not a RULE as in "Don't do X, but Do Y" - its a rule that explains how the shutter applies to the look of your shots.

There are no rules to creativity. You make decisions based on your intended goal/vision. But in general 2 x Frame Rate = Shutter Speed - Set it there, or slightly lower/higher, and things will generally be smooth. The further you get to either side, the more blurry/choppy it will look. Apply as needed.
 
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Hobbyists CAN fly thier drones at night
Rules for flying drones at night are:
  • Fly for hobby or recreational purposes only
  • Follow a community-based set of safety guidelines
  • Fly the UAS within visual line-of-sight
  • Give way to manned aircraft
  • Provide prior notification to the airport and air traffic control tower, if one is present when flying within 5 miles of an airport
  • Fly UAS that weigh no more than 55 lbs. unless certified by a community-based organization
Source: https://drones-pro.com/flying-drones-at-night/
 
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You can fly at night with an FAA waiver.
Unless you are flying a commercial job under a Part 107 you don't need a waiver or anyone's permission to fly at night.

But a little common sense helps to stay out of trouble.
 
Hobbyists CAN fly thier drones at night
Rules for flying drones at night are:
  • Fly for hobby or recreational purposes only
  • Follow a community-based set of safety guidelines
  • Fly the UAS within visual line-of-sight
  • Give way to manned aircraft
  • Provide prior notification to the airport and air traffic control tower, if one is present when flying within 5 miles of an airport
  • Fly UAS that weigh no more than 55 lbs. unless certified by a community-based organization
Source: https://drones-pro.com/flying-drones-at-night/
Thank u for clarifying that. It can get confusing since I do fly under p107 for some projects and I automatically assumed that my rec flying had to be packed up at sunset. [emoji561] [emoji106]
 
I see everyone quoting the 180 degree shutter "rule" , but not mentioning that it only applies in that it is a midpoint between "smooth" and "choppy" when it comes to motion blur in *most* cases. There is no RULE to what you can do creatively....maybe you want choppy motion/less motion blur? Maybe you want it smoother than normal, so you bump the frame rate down further. Maybe there is a lot of fast motion and even 2 x FPS is still too much? Maybe you're doing a *slow* move and you want to let more light into the lens - you wouldn't notice motion blur anyway because you aren't moving that much(to a certain point, though...)?

It should be noted that in film, which is traditionally shot at 24p, it's entirely ok to shoot at 1/25 shutter if there is really fast motion in your shot. Old school tilts & pans on a tripod at 24p 1/48 look horrible and jumpy if you move the camera too fast, but sometimes you needed the pan to finish quick and still look ok. In that case, you kick the shutter down to smooth things out. Sure, you lose detail, but your eyeballs don't feel like jumping out of your skull. And again, maybe you WANT it to be choppy to make the audience feel a certain way...these are creative decisions. Its not a RULE as in "Don't do X, but Do Y" - its a rule that explains how the shutter applies to the look of your shots.

There are no rules to creativity. You make decisions based on your intended goal/vision. But in general 2 x Frame Rate = Shutter Speed - Set it there, or slightly lower/higher, and things will generally be smooth. The further you get to either side, the more blurry/choppy it will look. Apply as needed.


Yeah fair enough. But to be fair I wasnt implying that it HAS to be done that way, I mean its litterally called the 180 degree shutter angle rule; its a name. And a good thing to know when like me when I started and didnt understand why the footage was choppy and awkward. Creativity has no bounds but its better to understand your equipment and things that can improve your shot than blindly shooting and thinking you dont have good gear. Either way we all learn from each other.
 
I mean its litterally called the 180 degree shutter angle rule; its a name
It's a name but who gave it that name, in what context and for what reasons? It's much less of a "rule" than you think especially when it comes for drone shots..

Yes if you're shooting at 1/1000 like what happens with no filter and you have fast motion it will be ugly and stroby. But if you do slow movements at 100m high it won't be noticeable at all.
Same as if you're low and fast being at 90° or 360° aka 4x or 1x basically won't be noticeable either.

You're not going to be flying low and fast at night where you don't see what you're doing, being at 1/25 rather than 1/50 is barely noticeable anyway, BUT it gives a very significant 2x advantage in noise. So no doubt about the most appropriate choice to make.
 
It's a name but who gave it that name, in what context and for what reasons? It's much less of a "rule" than you think especially when it comes for drone shots..

Yes if you're shooting at 1/1000 like what happens with no filter and you have fast motion it will be ugly and stroby. But if you do slow movements at 100m high it won't be noticeable at all.
Same as if you're low and fast being at 90° or 360° aka 4x or 1x basically won't be noticeable either.

You're not going to be flying low and fast at night where you don't see what you're doing, being at 1/25 rather than 1/50 is barely noticeable anyway, BUT it gives a very significant 2x advantage in noise. So no doubt about the most appropriate choice to make.


Hey, to each his own ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Who gave it the name is irrelevant since it's been around for a very long time. I'm extremely picky and always notice when its just not right. I haven't done any night shots so i can't say anything there. but when I shot at 60 fps during the day and accidentally left the shutter at 1/300 something I noticed an extreme difference. Just because it fly's doesn't change the fact that it still has a fully functioning camera. But it's not worth arguing about because no one can be "right" about this as it will just come down to a preference. =)
 
At 1/300 maybe, at 1/120 you wouldn't.
I haven't done any night shots so i can't say anything there.

Then why did you "facepalm" and contest what those with actual experience say? The whole point of this topic is about specificities of night shots.
 
At 1/300 maybe, at 1/120 you wouldn't.


Then why did you "facepalm" and contest what those with actual experience say? The whole point of this topic is about specificities of night shots.

Right... 120... which is the 180 shutter. that is my entire point. lol And because day and night do not change the fact that a camera behaves a certain way. It's something mechanical. You are arguing just to argue at this point, which neither of us i'm sure have any time for. So we'll end this here.
 

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