Really Losing Faith

[pmshop]

The pano thing is a mess. Fortunately something I've only used once, but even so, yes that's terrible and I WOULD expect better.
May I ask, have you purchased all of these from the same supplier? I think you may know where I'm going with that line of question, but it's not beyond reasonable to think it may be the suppliers you have used. Or maybe I just got lucky with mine.

Refurb Flymore package was DJI direct from their store - did the trade up turning in two iPhone 6 16gb and got $140 credit. Also got $30 credit posting in DJI forums for 18 months.

Second was an authorized DJI dealer where I could build my credit so to speak..

 

[pmshop]

And add this 180 pano attempt:

 

[brett8883]

And add this 180 pano attempt:
View attachment 70858

Use manual exposure and manual focus

 

[sar104]

Better still - shoot the pano elements completely manually in raw and then post-process - it gives much better results than the quick onboard pano process:

 

[brett8883]

Better still - shoot the pano elements completely manually in raw and then post-process - it gives much better results than the quick onboard pano process:

View attachment 70870

I believe even if you use the auto pano feature it will still save the DNG to the SD card if you have raw as the image setting in camera settings selected no?

 

[sar104]

I believe even if you use the auto pano feature it will still save the DNG to the SD card if you have raw as the image setting in camera settings selected no?

Yes - that's correct, and should work fine too.

 

[jzguitar]

Better still - shoot the pano elements completely manually in raw and then post-process - it gives much better results than the quick onboard pano process:

View attachment 70878

+1 for this. I always prefer to assemble the pano in Lightroom. And definitely make sure the camera settings aren’t changing between shots (not sure if it locks your exposure for the whole series, so make sure you’re shooting in full manual to keep the exposure consistent).

 

[Thomas B]

One comment, somewhere above an ISO of 800 was recommended. This is way too high. Try to keep it at 100... never more than 200. Letting it be high will introduce artifacts.

 

[brett8883]

One comment, somewhere above an ISO of 800 was recommended. This is way too high. Try to keep it at 100... never more than 200. Letting it be high will introduce artifacts.

That was for shooting in pitch black darkness... 100 or 200 ISO ain’t gonna work.

 

[Lon Denard]

+1 for this. I always prefer to assemble the pano in Lightroom. And definitely make sure the camera settings aren’t changing between shots (not sure if it locks your exposure for the whole series, so make sure you’re shooting in full manual to keep the exposure consistent).

That's a good question. I've found that depends on where you start the pano. Ie you go from dark to light or light to dark. I'd image that the program either averages the exposure or brings them all down to the lowest.

 

[brett8883]

That's a good question. I've found that depends on where you start the pano. Ie you go from dark to light or light to dark. I'd image that the program either averages the exposure or brings them all down to the lowest.

You really don’t want to change settings during the pano or you get something like this⬇

View attachment 70858

 

[Lon Denard]

I may have missed it but had anyone asked what resolutions the OP is using? He's comparing the Spark vs Mavic Air but the Spark is locked at 1080p while the MA shoots in 4k. Are we talking just stills?

Spark
F2.6 81.9mm fov (25mm equiv) 3968x2976

Mavic Air
F2.8 85mm fov (24mm equiv) 4056x3040

The Mavic Air doesn't claim to have a better camera, it's a similar (maybe the same) sensor. It has a "better" processor, more obstacle avoidance, better performance, on board storage, shoots in 4k, has more modes/features, more flight time, etc. Considering the specs, I'd expect the Spark to perform better in low light.

 

[Lon Denard]

You really don’t want to change settings during the pano or you get something like this⬇

Hahaha...so how does the program handle it in "auto"? When I shoot that kind of shot, I try to match the exposures to make my job easier in post, does the computer do the same thing and if so what does it use as a base line? The first photo, the last photo or some average?

 

[Lon Denard]

That was for shooting in pitch black darkness... 100 or 200 ISO ain’t gonna work.

You could hire a helicopter to fly above the Mavic Air with a search light...

 

[Thomas B]

Or adjust other settings to avoid spreading pixels and or grainy appearance, at least in stills.

 

[Lon Denard]

Last I checked, if you want to shoot at night, you can get a refurb Phantom 4 for a decent price. Why keep messing with these budget models, especially if you're making money with them?

 

[Lon Denard]

Or adjust other settings to avoid spreading pixels and or grainy appearance, at least in stills.

REALLY SLLLLOOOOOWWWWW SHUTTER...

 

[brett8883]

Or adjust other settings to avoid spreading pixels and or grainy appearance, at least in stills.

At some point the aircraft moves enough that the you won’t be able to get a good shot any longer with a slow enough shutter. Besides noise isn’t that big a deal with stills. Nothing a little Nik Collection Define 2 cant handle.

Sure when you get up to 1600 or 3200 then that’s when you have to get a better camera or

...hire a helicopter to fly above the Mavic Air with a search light...

 

[pmshop]

WOW!
I should have split off the main topic when I hit the Pano issues.
From post 23 on, thanks for the input.

I believe even if you use the auto pano feature it will still save the DNG to the SD card if you have raw as the image setting in camera settings selected no?

Yes - that's correct, and should work fine too.

But .jpg will not?

You really don’t want to change settings during the pano or you get something like this⬇

I didn't change them.
Unlike the Spark, Mavic Air tries to lock exposure on the second movement of the gimbal.
Spark sets the exposure wherever you point it first.
So it is difficult for me to get the exposure to hit right.
Someone said use manual exposure and manual focus?
I know of the manual exposure but where is the manual focus?

 

[brett8883]

WOW!
I should have split off the main topic when I hit the Pano issues.
From post 23 on, thanks for the input.




But .jpg will not?



I didn't change them.
Unlike the Spark, Mavic Air tries to lock exposure on the second movement of the gimbal.
Spark sets the exposure wherever you point it first.
So it is difficult for me to get the exposure to hit right.
Someone said use manual exposure and manual focus?
I know of the manual exposure but where is the manual focus?

Oh sorry I forgot Mavic Air doesn’t have an adjustable focus. So many similarities with all the Mavic’s I forget the differences some times.

It will probably do the .jpg too but you aren’t allowed to complain about photo quality anymore if using JPEG when you could be using .DNG ?. Especially since you have high expectations (nothing wrong with that btw I do too.)