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Really Losing Faith

But .jpg will not?

You certainly can create reasonable panos from a set of jpegs, especially if the light is good and the dynamic range of the scene is not too large. But in anything less than optimal conditions the shadows will likely end up noisy and the highlights, such as clouds, blown. You have a much better chance of constructing a good pano with the additional dynamic range of the raw images.
 
Oh sorry I forgot Mavic Air doesn’t have an adjustable focus. So many similarities with all the Mavic’s I forget the differences some times.

It will probably do the .jpg too but you aren’t allowed to complain about photo quality anymore if using JPEG when you could be using .DNG ?. Especially since you have high expectations (nothing wrong with that btw I do too.)

Meh...this is where my hangup lies - I hate Adobe products!
Very user unfriendly and before the subscription base...very expensive.
Maybe I will try again one day.

High expectations?
Never imagined getting that from the DJI Spark :D
 
Meh...this is where my hangup lies - I hate Adobe products!
Very user unfriendly and before the subscription base...very expensive.
Maybe I will try again one day.

High expectations?
Never imagined getting that from the DJI Spark :D

.DNG May have been designed by adobe but it’s an open source platform that just about any popular photo editing software can handle.

If you have a Mac the photos app has a great built in free editor. Also on Mac Preview(yes the program you use to view PDFs has a surprisingly powerful photo editor that can edit DNGs. Polar Pro has a decent one that most basic editing tools are free that is a free Google Chrome app that can be used on Mac or PC. I can’t really think of one that doesn’t actually.

It bewilders me when people don’t use the DNG feature. The only downside I can think of is it takes up more storage space but you could always edit the DNGs export a JPG copy of the final product and then delete the DNGs when you are don’t woth them.

It’s no harder to edit a DNG then a JPEG actually easier since they give you more range to work with
 
Just tried manual ISO 100 and shutter 1/2000
Yes, I got prop noise but same result:

Are you using a polarized filter here? You’d be better off using an ND-filter(not the PL kind) to reduce your shutter speed. 1/2000 is crazy fast. It’s amazing it’s looks as good as it does.

We talked about this in another thread recently about how the Spark is a point and shot camera. Just like your phone it has software that sets settings for you so you get s pretty decent photo no matter what.

The mavic on the other hand is more like a DSLR where the auto settings are an after thought because it’s expevted to be used as a manual camera. Somebody coming from a point n shoot to a manual camera I’m sure will feel Ike it doesn’t take as good of pictures. That’s not the case it just gives you more control so it will let you take a bad picture if that’s how you set it up.
 
Are you using a polarized filter here? You’d be better off using an ND-filter(not the PL kind) to reduce your shutter speed. 1/2000 is crazy fast. It’s amazing it’s looks as good as it does.

We talked about this in another thread recently about how the Spark is a point and shot camera. Just like your phone it has software that sets settings for you so you get s pretty decent photo no matter what.

The mavic on the other hand is more like a DSLR where the auto settings are an after thought because it’s expevted to be used as a manual camera. Somebody coming from a point n shoot to a manual camera I’m sure will feel Ike it doesn’t take as good of pictures. That’s not the case it just gives you more control so it will let you take a bad picture if that’s how you set it up.

Stock lens - no filter.
1/2000 was where I had EV at +/- 0
If I did 1/1600 as auto suggested, EV was +0.3

By the way, I really appreciate your time on this.
 
Stock lens - no filter.
1/2000 was where I had EV at +/- 0
If I did 1/1600 as auto suggested, EV was +0.3

By the way, I really appreciate your time on this.

Np. The prop thing is kinda weird was it real windy? Of course it can’t stick properly with all that going on
 
Are you using a polarized filter here? You’d be better off using an ND-filter(not the PL kind) to reduce your shutter speed. 1/2000 is crazy fast. It’s amazing it’s looks as good as it does.

We talked about this in another thread recently about how the Spark is a point and shot camera. Just like your phone it has software that sets settings for you so you get s pretty decent photo no matter what.

The mavic on the other hand is more like a DSLR where the auto settings are an after thought because it’s expevted to be used as a manual camera. Somebody coming from a point n shoot to a manual camera I’m sure will feel Ike it doesn’t take as good of pictures. That’s not the case it just gives you more control so it will let you take a bad picture if that’s how you set it up.

THIS^^^ It's the same argument that I have with Evo owners. I'm more than happy to concede that the Evo does a better job in auto mode than most DJI drones....Yay.
 
Np. The prop thing is kinda weird was it real windy? Of course it can’t stick properly with all that going on

Marginal winds.
But the horizon stitched perfectly.

THIS^^^ It's the same argument that I have with Evo owners. I'm more than happy to concede that the Evo does a better job in auto mode than most DJI drones....Yay.

Yeah, I had zero issues with the Spark stitching or manually stitching.
That is until the gimbal cannot hold the horizon after adjusting the gimbal.
 
...and now the other controller to my second Mavic Air is rebooting in flight
 
...and now the other controller to my second Mavic Air is rebooting in flight

I'll be honest with you. I think it's you. It's more than one device with the same problem. "Rebooting" as in the remote is turning itself off while you are flying? The remote, not your phone or tablet but the remote? I have never even heard that complaint before and you've had it happen to two separate drones? There's something going on here.
 
I'll be honest with you. I think it's you. It's more than one device with the same problem. "Rebooting" as in the remote is turning itself off while you are flying? The remote, not your phone or tablet but the remote? I have never even heard that complaint before and you've had it happen to two separate drones? There's something going on here.

Well, DJI did replace the main board of the controller I sent in.
So they did find something.
71373

The controller spontaneously restarts, chirps the startup sound and in some instances will beep loudly after the boot sound.
Yes, on two different remotes...two different suppliers.
One direct from DJI.

I am mindful of my inputs and I am not accidentally hitting it.
On two occasions, the one I sent to service would reboot just sitting on the table.
 
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Well, DJI did replace the main board of the controller I sent in.
So they did find something.
View attachment 71373

The controller spontaneously restarts, chirps the startup sound and in some instances will beep loudly after the boot sound.
Yes, on two different remotes...two different suppliers.
One direct from DJI.

I am mindful of my inputs and I am not accidentally hitting it.
On two occasions, the one I sent to service would reboot just sitting on the table.

It sounds like you have been very unlucky, since it's difficult to see how you could have caused the problems.
 
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Hot and cold pixels are a reality on all but the most expensive CCDs. Usually they aren't visible, but reduce the light, increase the gain and exposure and you will see them.

I take long exposure (10 min) astronomy pictures with a dedicated 35mm cooled camera, it costs about 5x the price of a MA, that has some hot pixels, if you pay another £1,000 you can get a grade A sensor, but even that is not guaranteed to be free of hot or dead pixels, it is just that they will be below a certain level.

Push my expensive camera even further (higher gain and 20 min exposure) and I can see a column of pixels which are not as sensitive as the rest, perhaps these will fail eventually.

Anyway all this is to say that all camera sensors have hot and cold pixels, dead pixels and even dead columns, usually you don't see them, but if you push the exposure and gain, you will.

There are programs which will do dark frame subtraction or hot pixel removal, but you are probably going to see a lot of noise in your video and or grains/motion blur, so you might be loosing a battle.

Probably best just to fly in a bit more light.

You are right about sensors and hot pixels, and, 2 hot pixels out of 12 million isn't that bad. During QC for DSLR sensors, they run a mapping program that records them and saves them on the image processor in most good cameras, and they are automatically ignored during image processing as one takes a picture. Sometimes pixels go bad after the mapping process and the camera has to be remapped. I used to have a Nikon remapping tool when I had my D300, it worked very well. DJI may do the same if their camera sensors can be remapped.
 
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Think I found the deal with the Mavic Air Controller.
The controller that was JUST serviced at DJI has rebooted on me.
I was using a 3rd party micro USB to lightning to connect the controller to the iPad.
When I use a 3rd party USB to lightning connector, it works fine.

Yes, connecting the USB out under the controller to the iPad.

Need more research but that seems to be it.
 
Sorry to hear its been this much headache, especially for an enthusiast such as yourself... As of tomorrow its legal to fly at night in Canada, so I will see if my Spark has any pixel issues. I read these mavic forums as a pre-purchase ritual. Waiting... Watching...
 
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Sorry to hear its been this much headache, especially for an enthusiast such as yourself... As of tomorrow its legal to fly at night in Canada, so I will see if my Spark has any pixel issues. I read these mavic forums as a pre-purchase ritual. Waiting... Watching...

Can't wait to see your productions!
 
Never let your ISO go above 800. Set it to manual mode with ISO 800 and shutter 1/30. -3 sharpness, -2 contrast, +1 saturation at night. You still might want to but it through s noise reduction software. That’s just what you have to do with this type of camera. As for the dead pixels that’s another matter but it’s pretty common for a sensor that small
Well, Im a newbie and probably out of line, but, could the battery problem actually be a charger problem??
 
Well, Im a newbie and probably out of line, but, could the battery problem actually be a charger problem??

It is all good.
We learn by sharing experiences.

Best way to tell if a battery is DOA:
1) No lights when the button on the battery is pressed
2) No signs of power after 4 hours of charging and
3) Known good batteries charge.

The two batteries in my case were recognized by DJI as DOA and were both replaced under warranty.
Still trying to get the time to tackle the other stuck pixel situations.
 

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