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The sharpest aperture for the Mavic 2 Pro ?

drekko

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hey guys

What is the sharpest aperture you find for the Mavic 2 Pro?

From looking at videos and guides. (film Poets to be specific) they said f4 is

But others say 5.6 (toms tech time)

I cant tell the difference though but I havent looked really hard to compare

what do you think is the sharpest?
 
try them both ??
 
try them both ??

Like I said I cant tell the difference personally so I have tried them both
Just wanted to ask if anyone here always sticks to one and their opinion on the sharpest aperture
 
The fact you can’t see a difference in sharpness between the apertures in your testing should give you some comfort. There isn’t a big difference between f4-5.6.

All current digital cameras have a diffraction limit that isn’t hard to find and all lenses have a sweet spot aperture that gives optimum sharpness. Not all creative decisions you may make to create the image you have in mind will employ technically optimum settings. It is all part of the compromise and always has been with every type of photography.

That small aperture you needed for maximising depth of field in landscape photography was almost never that which would reveal the best performance of the lens shooting a test chart- the same as the speed of the film stock you needed to get a high enough shutter speed for the conditions wouldn’t give you the finest grain and best perceived print sharpness.

The advantage you have here is that with a small sensor and short focal length at the camera to subject distances usually involved f4 will give great DOF when the lens if properly focussed. It also seems to be sharper than smaller aperture settings from my usage however I haven’t gone to great lengths to test extensively.
 
hey guys

What is the sharpest aperture you find for the Mavic 2 Pro?

From looking at videos and guides. (film Poets to be specific) they said f4 is

But others say 5.6 (toms tech time)

I cant tell the difference though but I havent looked really hard to compare

what do you think is the sharpest?
5.6 is more optimal but you or anyone would be very hard pressed to see a difference
 
I've been also very curious about this as well and I've done tons of searches on Google and Youtube. All the data I've collected so far is either 3.5 or 4 and I saw it's said the blurry is noticable beyond 4, so I'm bit skeptical about 5.6 to be honest.

I also read on a DJI forum post which says the best sharpness is at the native aperture and it's F/2.8. And I always shot at F/2.8 and didn't notice any problem but to be fair I'm just an amateur.
 
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Both Polarpro Filters and Quadcopter Guide says f/4 is the sharpest, but the differences are not that big f/2.8 - f/5.6. You should stay away from f/8 - f/11 though.

 
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I've been also very curious about this as well and I've done tons of searches on Google and Youtube. All the data I've collected so far is either 3.5 or 4 and I saw it's said the blurry is noticable beyond 4, so I'm bit skeptical about 5.6 to be honest.

I also read on a DJI forum post which says the best sharpness is at the native aperture and it's F/2.8. And I always shot at F/2.8 and didn't notice any problem but to be fair I'm just an amateur.
The f stop range of the lens most likely ranges from f2.8 when it’s fully wide open to something like f16 when it’s closed down as much as possible. The higher the f stop, the greater the depth of field (i.e. the more that is in focus). However the “sweet spot” optically of a lens is in its middle f stop range - 5.6 being pretty optimal. There would be nothing unique about the lens on a drone that would allow it to deviate from this mathematical truth. That being said, for most drone work, with the focus close to infinity, it shouldn’t really matter what the f stop is. If the footage does not look good, it’s probably for some other reason than f stop setting.
 
A possible way to check for sharpness may be to view the image, let’s say, with PS CC, & zoom in on the image.
 
A possible way to check for sharpness may be to view the image, let’s say, with PS CC, & zoom in on the image.
If you are working with manual focus on your drone the best way to check for focus is definitely NOT to zoom in. Doing that is a good way to ensure your footage is not in focus when you zoom back out. Only very expensive large “parfocal” zooms hold their focus during zooms. A zoom lens on a drone would hold its focus automatically by constantly recalibrating and refocusing during its zoom
 
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My comment, sorry if it was not clear, was to view an image for sharpness out of camera. May be I’m missing something?
 
There is a focus peaking function available on Mavic 2 Pro. Activating that is the best confirmation for good focus. I personally find it a bit distracting to leave it on, so I just check it at beginning of shot and then turn it off
 
I've made some tests with my 1st faulty and then 2nd drone and I couldn't not see any real difference between f2.8 and f4.
It is said, that f4 should be the optimum, after that, diffraction starts to kick in slightly with f5.6 and noticeably with f8 and f11.

I keep shooting at f2.8 ...
 
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hey guys

What is the sharpest aperture you find for the Mavic 2 Pro?

From looking at videos and guides. (film Poets to be specific) they said f4 is

But others say 5.6 (toms tech time)

I cant tell the difference though but I havent looked really hard to compare

what do you think is the sharpest?

It's F4 - it's something that can be mathematically proven based on sensor size and pixel density. In the simplest terms, with a 20MP 1" sensor, beyond F4, the details intended for a single pixel begin to spill over into adjacent pixels, giving you a blurry image (diffraction). By F8-11 image quality is so bad that it is unusable, for my personal sharpness standards. I would not go above F5.6 personally, and I stay at F4 unless I am in a pinch. Most people won't notice a big difference between F2.8, F4, and F5.6, but beyond that it starts to go downhill fast. F4 is objectively the sharpest aperture assuming no other issues with the drone.

The other benefit of shooting at F4 is you have on stop of leeway both above and below F4 without a significant negative impact on image quality, so you can change the aperture rather than having to land and swap ND filters if lighting conditions change mid-flight.
 
The f stop range of the lens most likely ranges from f2.8 when it’s fully wide open to something like f16 when it’s closed down as much as possible. The higher the f stop, the greater the depth of field (i.e. the more that is in focus). However the “sweet spot” optically of a lens is in its middle f stop range - 5.6 being pretty optimal. There would be nothing unique about the lens on a drone that would allow it to deviate from this mathematical truth. That being said, for most drone work, with the focus close to infinity, it shouldn’t really matter what the f stop is. If the footage does not look good, it’s probably for some other reason than f stop setting.
Not all lenses are sharpest at the midpoint in the Fstop range. At current digital sensor photo site densities you won't find many if any lens/camera combinations that might realise this performance.That is the issue here where it seems the most significant contribution to apparent softness we have on the M2P is the diffraction limit.
 
The f stop range of the lens most likely ranges from f2.8 when it’s fully wide open to something like f16 when it’s closed down as much as possible. The higher the f stop, the greater the depth of field (i.e. the more that is in focus). However the “sweet spot” optically of a lens is in its middle f stop range - 5.6 being pretty optimal. There would be nothing unique about the lens on a drone that would allow it to deviate from this mathematical truth. That being said, for most drone work, with the focus close to infinity, it shouldn’t really matter what the f stop is. If the footage does not look good, it’s probably for some other reason than f stop setting.

I think this deserves some further explanation, though your basic principles are generally correct.

The M2P aperture range is F2.8-F11. The sensor is so small however that DOF is not really an issue - at F2.8 you are already getting DOF equivalent to F8 on a full frame camera - by F4 you are getting DOF equivalent to F11 on a full frame camera, and so on. On top of this, the nature of drone flight usually means huge distances between the drone and the scene, so if you have focused properly, everything is going to be in focus all the time. At F4, once you're about 60 feet in the air, everything from 3 feet to infinity is going to be in focus. Unless you're flying extremely close to something, DOF on drones is for the most part a non-issue. The combination of huge DOF, a wide angle lens (28mm equiv.) and large subject distances ensure that you can have everything in focus pretty much all the time on a M2P.

A lens' sweet spot is entirely dependent on the individual lens, and that does not take into account sensor size or sensor resolution, both of which are very important variables to the resulting image quality. On a MTF test bench, most lenses are tuned to be sharpest between F2.8 and F5.6, approximately, but this is not a rule - many lenses are specifically designed to be their sharpest either wide open or very close to wide open. Macro lenses are tuned to be sharpest at smaller apertures and prioritize edge-to-edge sharpness over peak center sharpness. Many lenses are on the decline by the time they hit F5.6 - it simply depends on the individual lens design. Nothing about that is a mathematical truth, the sharpest aperture is simply what the lens engineers design it to be. It's also more complicated than that when you look at the whole frame - a lens that might be sharpest at the center at F2.8 might be sharpest across the whole frame at F8, albeit at a lower overall level, so you have to decide what compromise you want. Photography is a giant world of compromises or "pick 2 of the 3" type scenarios.

The second part of the equation is the sensor size and resolution (pixel density). The M2P sensor is tiny, and at 20MP, has a very high pixel density (equivalent to a 147 MP full frame camera). The higher the pixel density, the earlier diffraction is going to start ruining your image quality. This is something that is objective and can be mathematically calculated. On the M2P (Or any camera using a 20MP 1" sensor), diffraction will start to degrade the image after F4. On the M2P, there isn't a big difference in image quality between F2.8 and F4, but by F5.6 it is noticeably softer, and by F8-F11 in my opinion diffraction has softened the image to the point it is barely usable outside of lower resolution applications like social media. The aperture matters a great deal if you care about image quality, because the high pixel density starts to cause you problems pretty early on with the 1" 20MP sensors. Everyone has their own subjective thresholds for what is "good enough", which is totally fine, but if we're discussing sharpness those are the facts.
 
F/4 although not much of a difference when opening up to F/3.5 or F/2.8.

F/5.6 also totally fine but don’t go beyond that.
 
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