The stock 5+ mile range of the Mavic 2 on FCC in the U.S. already exceeds the stock battery capacity for any safe round trip. I'd be looking for a battery mod to the aircraft first, to extend flight times, and then maybe a range increase might make sense to support the new extended flight times, unless one way suicide missions are the goal!
What is the BEST range extender right now for Mavic 2 Zoom?
- Thread starter Stringfellow-Hawke
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lannes
Well-Known Member
The other thing to take into account is legal transmission power
FCC Rules -
FCC Rules for Unlicensed Wireless Equipment operating in the ISM bands The ISM radio bands were originally set aside for electromagnetic radiation produced by industrial, scientific and medical (ISM) equipment. In the early 1990’s the Federal Communcat
afar.net
Like you I wanted a range extender for my MM. I looked at the Raptor XR but realised that it was just a passive antenna and not a booster. In the end I opted for the Alientech
Like you I wanted a signal amplifier for my DJI drone (MM). I almost bought the 4Hawks Raptor SR but realised that it was a passive antenna and not powered. In the end I opted for the Alientech 2.4 Ghz signal amplifier which is a genuine powered antenna. It’s much more expensive than the 4Hawks Raptor but in the end if it works I will be happy. It’s on it’s way and should be here in a couple of weeks.
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Ok so just upgraded my Mavic setup with dual Sunhans 5.8Ghz 2000mW signal boosters, USB powerbank & wired up to a 4Hawks Raptor XR directional antenna...
TOTAL FAILURE!! Mavic cannot get 300ft away without the signal dropping to 2 bars, went slightly further & the signal lost auto return to home initiated!... What is wrong!, I have both boosters firmly connected to 4hawks & controller & plugged into the USB fully charged battery.. Lights on boosters were on & battery on... What gives!
TOTAL FAILURE!! Mavic cannot get 300ft away without the signal dropping to 2 bars, went slightly further & the signal lost auto return to home initiated!... What is wrong!, I have both boosters firmly connected to 4hawks & controller & plugged into the USB fully charged battery.. Lights on boosters were on & battery on... What gives!
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Okay I figured out what happened and it's a pretty dumb mistake I hooked up the antenna wire to the radio side of the booster and then hooked up the remote side of the booster do the radio side of my remote. All would be fine and dandy except now I'm accounting a male to male connection and I don't even know who sells coupling that can couple two male connectors together does anyone know of a link on Amazon or something with exactly the connection that I would need connects two males I'm not sure of what wire to look up thanks for any help
For $200, you can go back to the awesome stock RC. That's the last price I saw here, for a lightly used M2 RC.
brett8883
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Flip the cable around you have it backwards.
Pin the middle to no pin in the middle is what we’re are looking for.
You have no pin to no pin and pin to pin currently.
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Also you have the Velcro on the wrong side of the amps. The lights on the front will turn blue when you have a successful connection to the drone via the amps so that a good way to tell it’s working and worth being able to see
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Yes, I had the wires initially wrong, I flipped the boosters over and have the lights facing me now. However on my second test flight I was not seeing any blue lights and when the Drone got to 500 feet away it lost signal and auto return to home. What am I doing wrong did I buy the proper boosters for this drone? I double-checked the connections everything is going to where it's supposed to go now the white lights come on but they never turn blue.
brett8883
Well-Known Member
Try selecting 5.8 manually in the transmission settings. Also send a screen shot of your interference graph in DJI Go 4.
You may have the issue that your set up is so powerful that it is interfering with its own signal at close range and trying to switch to 2.4 which is what its suppose to do with high interference. Any time you boost a signal you also boost the noise. The app measures noise as a discrete value instead of the signal to noise ratio which is what really matters. You should expect to see high interference on the graph which is a good sign cause that means the amps are working and the app doesn’t account for the increase in signal.
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The signal goes down rapidly with any distance.. Maybe I can't run this setup with the DJI app??. I will try to find out how to switch to 5.8ghz
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brett8883
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Turn on the amp, turn on the RC and then turn on the drone and watch the light when the RC connects to the drone you should see it turn blueish. There’s a white light that’s always on and then a blue light that turns on when the drone connects with the RC. It’s kinda faint but once you notice it it becomes apparent. If it’s working now you don’t really have to worry about it cause the only way your set up would get signal is through the amps since you have them on both sides.
You don't know how to change your frequency on your remote yet your experienced enough to fly outside of vlos with that horrendous contraption. New laws coming in next year.......check...MIC DROP!
Mavic2zoomAptos
Member
I have my charge cable hooked up with a angled micro silicones in then
usb A to usb A to a battery pack it is not metal on a rail far from controller
I use a Apple mini 2 have it log in to DJI with email I use a apple 7 + on do not disturb so it’s linked with the non cell tablet has background apps off not much on it except DJI sync
I keep the 16 gb cleaned o the middle usb uses a short apple cord never found angled one but DJI store has those might be 25 bucks might as well get charge cable micro mini to usb for the boost so your charging two things the control and ur cell
I have a strap around my neck I use the antenna boost and set freq to 5.8
The out put is huge 60 watts to drone yes calibrate i slowly take off on a carpet sample won’t blow away slowly go up only no moveing I hover at 30 ft for 60 seconds I like way points I also mirror to my Apple TV for a huge view. I stay out side so I don’t loose gps I use a stud sensor on a stick to look for metal where carpet is so then check my setting
I have a Mavic 2 zoom I am getting a holder for a apple mini 5 WiFi and that’s it so when battery is plugged in it shows charging I just think it’s max output to antennas I notice it does get hotter temp gun staid no bat charger dosent get hot power is heat
usb A to usb A to a battery pack it is not metal on a rail far from controller
I use a Apple mini 2 have it log in to DJI with email I use a apple 7 + on do not disturb so it’s linked with the non cell tablet has background apps off not much on it except DJI sync
I keep the 16 gb cleaned o the middle usb uses a short apple cord never found angled one but DJI store has those might be 25 bucks might as well get charge cable micro mini to usb for the boost so your charging two things the control and ur cell
I have a strap around my neck I use the antenna boost and set freq to 5.8
The out put is huge 60 watts to drone yes calibrate i slowly take off on a carpet sample won’t blow away slowly go up only no moveing I hover at 30 ft for 60 seconds I like way points I also mirror to my Apple TV for a huge view. I stay out side so I don’t loose gps I use a stud sensor on a stick to look for metal where carpet is so then check my setting
I have a Mavic 2 zoom I am getting a holder for a apple mini 5 WiFi and that’s it so when battery is plugged in it shows charging I just think it’s max output to antennas I notice it does get hotter temp gun staid no bat charger dosent get hot power is heat
Would you recommend this if I haven't yet purchased the passive satellite component?By the time you have bought the 2 sunhans and the battery and worked out how to mount it
It might be the same price to get a boosted solution using your 4hawks in a nicer form factor
Online Store | titandronesinc
www.commandcase.com
The sunhans are 5.8ghz while the Command Case solution is 2.4ghz. 2.4ghz will give the longer range in principle
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