What major things should I do or steer clear of either flying or buying for my MavicAir?

[Amarand]

In Sports Mode, keep in mind these two things: 1. All the protective sensors are deactivated, so don't fly it low. 2. It is designed to get you to a spot very quickly. THEN use normal modes...

Conversely.... I fly in sports mode all the time, and the protective sensors -seem- to detect and react to things like potential mid-air collisions, and the landing sensors are always watching, because I descend super rapidly from height in Sports Mode, and when it gets closer to the ground, even with the stick fully down, it slows down rapidly as it approaches 10-20' feet, and dramatically slower when it detects it's about 3 or 4' off the ground.

Where I fly, I'm higher than my backyard by about three or four feet, and regularly fly negative-AGL. It's still watching. It's just not as likely to do automatic things. You can still run into a tree, for example, but if you try to fly too close to a tree (even in Sport Mode), the craft will slowly back away, trying to keep you a reasonable distance away. I watched it do this today while I was flying intentionally close to a tree-top. Complete VLOS, so I knew I was safe, but it was absolutely detecting and reacting to the front sensors being too close.

 

[Amarand]

You'll want a decent SD card. I got a 64 GB. Actually, I bought two, but I haven't filled one during a session of flying. I don't remove it either, choosing instead to plug into the USB-C port in the back and download direct to my laptop. The second 64 GB card is resting undisturbed in my hard case.

Just took a drone photography class, and I can absolutely, positively steer folks toward using smaller (64 GB) cards, rather than going with larger (128 GB+) cards. The reason being: you should probably change out your SD card each time you replace your battery, especially in potentially dangerous areas (water, fly-away prone spaces like near towers or in valleys).

One of the instructors was talking about how she had been shooting all day, the best shooting day of her life, from a kayak, shooting whales, and after completely filling up a huge card, the AC just decided to fly away....

I -think- she ended up catching it, eventually, but she's in the water, and she's got her friend shooting above her with a drone, and she's freaking out that her drone is just flying away from her for no reason and is probably going to take a dunk in the water and die.

And these are professional (ex-DJI employee) photographers and drone fliers. They know all the DJI drones.

Me, I used to buy larger cards for my dSLR (128/256 GB), but no more. I usually stick to the 64 GB range, and just swap them out. I usually get about 5000 RAW images on them, which is plenty.

If you want to spend more money on the cards, buy a higher-quality, faster card. I've been happy with the SanDisk Extreme PRO microSDXC Memory Card Plus SD Adapter up to 100 MB/s, Class 10, U3, V30, A1 - 64 GB

Amazon.com: SanDisk Extreme PRO microSDXC Memory Card Plus SD Adapter up to 100 MB/s, Class 10, U3, V30, A1 - 64 GB: Computers & Accessories

Buy SanDisk Extreme PRO microSDXC Memory Card Plus SD Adapter up to 100 MB/s, Class 10, U3, V30, A1 - 64 GB: Micro SD Cards - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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At $28, you can buy one for each of your three batteries for less than $100.

Heck, they even have the newer A2 for less money! $19.74

Amazon.com: SanDisk Extreme Pro MicroSDXC UHS-I U3 A2 V30 64GB + Adapter: Computers & Accessories

Amazon.com: SanDisk Extreme Pro MicroSDXC UHS-I U3 A2 V30 64GB + Adapter: Computers & Accessories

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It's incredible how the memory card prices keep coming down, too.

 

[Spinny McSpinster the 3rd]

I got the fly-more package, then bought a 4th battery, and a hard case with shaped foam cutouts. Holds all four batteries, the drone, the controller (with joysticks still mounted), the charging gear, plus a zippered mesh part where I carry spare props, cables...

I've got ND and ND/PL filters on the way. Not essential, but the ND filters will help you towards better looking film if that is important to you. The ND/PL will enhance your saturation (eg give you bluer skies) and can help you get shots into water, through glass, etcetera.

I don't understand why anyone buys the leg extensions. Especially if you have a pad. I don't have my pad yet, so if the area doesn't have a suitable launching area -- because of tall grass, dirt, not level -- I set my hard case on the ground and launch off that. I land it in my hand -- easy to do. You can launch that way too.

You'll want a decent SD card. I got a 64 GB. Actually, I bought two, but I haven't filled one during a session of flying. I don't remove it either, choosing instead to plug into the USB-C port in the back and download direct to my laptop. The second 64 GB card is resting undisturbed in my hard case.

You might want to consider buying an external SSD USB drive to store the collection of media you are about to start generating. I've got four batteries, giving me about an hour of "safe" flight time. I don't have the camera rolling all the time, of course, but even on planned shoots at 4K, 30fps, I haven't exceeded about 38GB. But I'm sure I could generate a lot more if I really ran the camera.

The point is, you are going to generate a lot of GB worth of media, so you're going to need somewhere to put it.

-----

Then you'll want to think about post processing. Do you just want to grab photos and video for friends and family without too much care about squeezing the best quality out of it, or do you intend to get serious.

Those answers will determine whether or not you'll want to invest in serious software (there are plenty of free options will do you just fine if you aren't after perfection), and they'll also dictate how much study you are going to need to do.

Average quality okay? Then a few "how to" videos on YouTube will probably do you.

Want to pursue perfection? Then you are going to begin a journey (if you haven't already) that may last over years of learning about photography and videography.

Enjoy!

Thanks Dan - Some great advice there! Im actually going to get a Landing Pad now - makes total sense than feet.

 

[Spinny McSpinster the 3rd]

I also , always use the landing gear extentions.Helps control unwanted dust and other ground clutter from damaging your paint job. Also, you should check in to the Master Airscrews. I just installed them and am highly impressed with the reduction in the "Scream of Angry Bees". also picked up quite a bit of air time. If you are into cool pictures a set of PolarPro cinima series
Exposure collection. Do some research on them. Kind of spendy but excelent quality.. Range extender';s suck.
Fly safe
PoonDog.

I got some Master Airscrews too just recently! One thing, the instructions inside with the Basic Gain adjustments - is that really necessary to dial in?

 

[Chas2379]

Congrats on the Mavic Air, you should get a lot of pleasure using it.
It's not the best all around, but it's probably the best little drone on the market with the best video.

I'd highly recommend MasterScrew Props. Once you set the gains as recommended, they fly better and "a lot" less high pitch scream! Probably the nicest improvement for the MA.
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Owning all Mavic's the M2P/Z are a great improvement for Mavic, but the MP & MA still have a strong presence. I'd agree that the MP is better in Sport mode due to the gimbal design & movement.
If you're shopping for a 2nd Mavic... and can find a used M2P/Z, I'd suggest that over a MP.

Most video will probably be shot in normal mode or sport with not so aggressive movements.
The Camera of the MA is an improvement over the MP and that is probably it's biggest advantage.
The 2nd advantage is a smaller package to transport... it's quite a bit smaller than the MP when folded.
One of the biggest negaitives on MA was the Radio & WiFi... but you'll still get ample distance, over not a problem.

The Camera Sensor on the MP & MA are the same size but the MA produces much better results.
Here's pretty open comparison by a reputable source - Cinima5D.

I agree the best upgrade you can make to the Mavic Air is Master Airscrew Stealth Props. Master Airscrew says the suggested gain values are optional and are based on extensive tests they have performed to ensure the highest level of compatibility. I changed mine. Directions are on their web site.
I don't use the MA in sport mode, I have a P4A for that.

 

[Spinny McSpinster the 3rd]

I agree the best upgrade you can make to the Mavic Air is Master Airscrew Stealth Props. Master Airscrew says the suggested gain values are optional and are based on extensive tests they have performed to ensure the highest level of compatibility. I changed mine. Directions are on their web site.
I don't use the MA in sport mode, I have a P4A for that.

Thanks for the info bro!
Alas I changed the gain settings as recommended by MA and my drone drifted into my wall (whilst indoors)!
I dont know quite what happened but the drift definitely wasnt there when i tried the drone before changing the basic gain settings.

 

[Dan C]

Thanks for the info bro!
Alas I changed the gain settings as recommended by MA and my drone drifted into my wall (whilst indoors)!
I dont know quite what happened but the drift definitely wasnt there when i tried the drone before changing the basic gain settings.

Indoors? You probably didn’t have gps, and thus no stabilization.

 

[Dougcjohn]

Thanks for the info bro!
Alas I changed the gain settings as recommended by MA and my drone drifted into my wall (whilst indoors)!
I dont know quite what happened but the drift definitely wasnt there when i tried the drone before changing the basic gain settings.

I'd agree on the lack of GPS and if low light in room the various sensors for non-GPS stability may be poor too.

On a oddity, I've noticed it's helpful to have first flight after setting 2 new gain values outside where you can climb and have a little short flight... not certain, but it acts like it needs to fly a bit to complete the gain adjustments.

I've noticed this when I've experimented with the gains... needs to climb and fly a bit to settle into the new setting... like some matrix is being saved or updated with the first flight.

 

[Spinny McSpinster the 3rd]

Indoors? You probably didn’t have gps, and thus no stabilization.

Ahhh thank you! I learned something today But then I wonder why it was stable before indoors (across different rooms - same setup)

 

[Spinny McSpinster the 3rd]

I'd agree on the lack of GPS and if low light in room the various sensors for non-GPS stability may be poor too.

On a oddity, I've noticed it's helpful to have first flight after setting 2 new gain values outside where you can climb and have a little short flight... not certain, but it acts like it needs to fly a bit to complete the gain adjustments.

I've noticed this when I've experimented with the gains... needs to climb and fly a bit to settle into the new setting... like some matrix is being saved or updated with the first flight.

Copy that! Thanks bro! Im going to test it later today - in the garden this time.

 

[Ridgeback]

Hi Spinny
I am not far from you living in Skellow near Doncaster, I have both a Mavic Air 1 & a SparK I will be taking my A2 C of C exam shortly , I am awaiting CE certification on drones before I purchase my next drone.
The Mavic Air controller charger port is easily damaged, there are plenty of posts on this site regards subject this if you do a search.

Follow this link I posted regards Mavic Air Controller charging port.

Mavic Air Controller Charging Port Solution

I I I charge my controller with a magnetic adaptor which fits into the charging port see image, a lead is held on to the charger by magnetism.I leave the adaptor in place and use the USB 2 port to connect to my phone. The above eliminates the possibility of damage to the charging port for a...

mavicpilots.com

 

[Nostris]

Watch this video - the air doesn't like sport mode

That’s an obvious one, and it’s operator error I think. When the Mavic Air is in sport mode and you move it forward, it assumes a very nose down attitude. The gamble will sort its self out. However, if you adjust the gamble tilt to full up, it will block against the body of the drone. I have never experienced this problem.

 

[Jordaneer]

Congrats on the Mavic Air, you should get a lot of pleasure using it.
It's not the best all around, but it's probably the best little drone on the market with the best video.

I'd highly recommend MasterScrew Props. Once you set the gains as recommended, they fly better and "a lot" less high pitch scream! Probably the nicest improvement for the MA.

DJI Mavic Air STEALTH Upgrade Propellers - x4 Black

Upgrade your DJI Mavic AIR for quiet low noise operation, long flight time and improved performance. Low noise propellers with 50% noise power reduction. Enhanced flight time with up to 14% (2.8min) longer flight. Master Airscrew MAVIC AIR Low Noise STEALTH Premium Propellers feature advanced...

www.masterairscrew.com

Owning all Mavic's the M2P/Z are a great improvement for Mavic, but the MP & MA still have a strong presence. I'd agree that the MP is better in Sport mode due to the gimbal design & movement.
If you're shopping for a 2nd Mavic... and can find a used M2P/Z, I'd suggest that over a MP.

Most video will probably be shot in normal mode or sport with not so aggressive movements.
The Camera of the MA is an improvement over the MP and that is probably it's biggest advantage.
The 2nd advantage is a smaller package to transport... it's quite a bit smaller than the MP when folded.
One of the biggest negaitives on MA was the Radio & WiFi... but you'll still get ample distance, over not a problem.

The Camera Sensor on the MP & MA are the same size but the MA produces much better results.
Here's pretty open comparison by a reputable source - Cinima5D.

Oh gawd, that's what I hate about the mavic air is that it sounds like an angry swarm of bees, the MA2 is a little bit quieter but SIGNIFICANTLY less annoying as it has low noise props on it already

 

[Unknown Pilot]

MAS props are great and a guard to protect the sticks on the remote is useful if you don't want to spend your time removing them all the time.

Bought a set of ND filters six months ago but I'm a photographer, as opposed to a videographer, so I've never used them.