yep whats happening is your shutter speed is so fast that its adding a slow mo effect or jello effect. a rule of thumb when shooting video is to stay 2x the frame rate for a cinematic look, unless you are going for an unconventional effect. Overall, your shot look amazing compared to before a lil more tweaking and your shots will be perfect. I also like to shoot in 4k because i can take stills if i want and i can crop the video as i please when i downgrade to 1080p. my rule is always shoot the highest resolution and downscale later, gives a lot more freedom when editing.
Another poor mavic shoot?
- Thread starter jimnz
- Start date
Thanks for your input.
I was running 4K but read the mavic doesn't Handle it so well and 2.7 was better while still being able to crop a bit
I was running 4K but read the mavic doesn't Handle it so well and 2.7 was better while still being able to crop a bit
Thread is confusing - started out about problems with RAW then became about Video.
For stills you don't really want to be deliberately slowing shutter so NDs are unlikely to help much.
If shooting in D-Log strange things happen to RAW due to a known bug.
Firstly it underexposes and y quite a lot, secondly some sort of processing is applied so not a proper RAW anymore - quite odd really.
In Cinelike it should be OK though.
Most mavics start to blur or go 'watercolour effect' round the edges as light gets lower - it's important to avoid underexposing. Often the centre looks OK but one side is usually worse than the other. Tapping focus somewhat to that side might help.
But mainly the key thing to avoid is underexposing as light starts to fail and you still have ND on.
For stills you don't really want to be deliberately slowing shutter so NDs are unlikely to help much.
If shooting in D-Log strange things happen to RAW due to a known bug.
Firstly it underexposes and y quite a lot, secondly some sort of processing is applied so not a proper RAW anymore - quite odd really.
In Cinelike it should be OK though.
Most mavics start to blur or go 'watercolour effect' round the edges as light gets lower - it's important to avoid underexposing. Often the centre looks OK but one side is usually worse than the other. Tapping focus somewhat to that side might help.
But mainly the key thing to avoid is underexposing as light starts to fail and you still have ND on.
If youre taking photos you WANT as high a shutter speed as possible. Those speeds are fine. Its a camera so the same things apply. Video you want ideally 2x the frame rate but for stills you want a nice high shutter speed to prevent blur. So if youre looking at stills not video, dont fly with ND filters.
I started by asking why are my images so crap, not so much RAW, more lack or image quality.. it seems most threads merge to video comments as well as they are closely related.
so what im getting is slow shutter for vid (2x) fps), use a nd to achieve this on a bright day. - all agreed.
where it gets confusing is slowing the shutter speed to get a still.
General camera logic says leaving the shutter open longer give the sensor more time to capture data resulting in a better image.?
i cant agree with highest shutter speeds as possible. as long as the shutter is above 1/100th then all stills with be sharp while letting in enough light for a good image.
My images with the ND and thus a slower shutter show as better...
If slowing the shutter is not recommended for stills and required for vid, then every flight can only focus on stills OR video? this is impractical.
as for the blurry edges, im thinking its just a cheapish camera and to deal with is by cropping or adjusting the focus point as suggested by others...
another thought for the blurry edges...
What about shooting in 2.7k and zooming in to cut out the blurry edges?
Or will this just move the blur inwards?
What about shooting in 2.7k and zooming in to cut out the blurry edges?
Or will this just move the blur inwards?
Cameras dont work that way. If theres enough life to expose correctly "time" means nothing. In fact the opposite happens with long exposures - the longer its open the more thermal noise starts to show on a shot.
[quote
i cant agree with highest shutter speeds as possible. as long as the shutter is above 1/100th then all stills with be sharp while letting in enough light for a good image.[/quote]
Not really, you're on a camera in the wind with a gimbal so theres instability there. But mainly things like foliage and water that are effected by the wind can blue at those speeds. Depending how much movement there is or how close you are than you can easily need 1/200th or above to freeze that shot.
Nope, see above.
Not really. Myself and others do it. Pick whatever mode you're likely to use most and accept a quality compromise on the other mode. Or fly, get the stills you want with no filters, come back, use the info from there to work out the best ND for the light, fit it and fly back. Its not that hard.
You can knock the ISO up on the stills if needed although even at iso200 the mavics camera still produces a hell of a lot of noise. This may or may not be acceptable to you.
Not really, you're on a camera in the wind with a gimbal so theres instability there. But mainly things like foliage and water that are effected by the wind can blue at those speeds. Depending how much movement there is or how close you are than you can easily need 1/200th or above to freeze that shot.
Nope, see above.
Not really. Myself and others do it. Pick whatever mode you're likely to use most and accept a quality compromise on the other mode. Or fly, get the stills you want with no filters, come back, use the info from there to work out the best ND for the light, fit it and fly back. Its not that hard.
You can knock the ISO up on the stills if needed although even at iso200 the mavics camera still produces a **** of a lot of noise. This may or may not be acceptable to you.[/QUOTE]
i tend to shoot higher shutter speeds on the Mavic too for stills. i also do on my DSLR too, if you are shooting any moving object a higher speed is needed unless you were maintaining a constant speed and direction.
try shooting wildlife or sports on stills at less than 1/400. i have used 1/4000 on wildlife and still had blur (birds wings)
i think on a mavic with a little vibration higher would be better.
Update.
I concede the shutter on stills can/needs to be higher.
That put away, the last gripe is the blury sides / focus / detail on both stills and vid.
I note many have this issue and some return for repair and some accept it as normal.
Can you guys look at this to give opinion on weather this falls into send for repair due to abnormality or just accept it.
2.7k, 24fps, +1,0,0, dlog, ND16 giving 50 shutter
strangely it mostly seems to be the left side (and right side for stills)
I concede the shutter on stills can/needs to be higher.
That put away, the last gripe is the blury sides / focus / detail on both stills and vid.
I note many have this issue and some return for repair and some accept it as normal.
Can you guys look at this to give opinion on weather this falls into send for repair due to abnormality or just accept it.
2.7k, 24fps, +1,0,0, dlog, ND16 giving 50 shutter
strangely it mostly seems to be the left side (and right side for stills)
Mine lacks sharpness on the left, especially upper left hand side. I do 90%+ photos (some flights i wont shoot video at all) so im working around by framing a photo ignoring the left 10% of the screen then cropping. Its not ideal. The right is soft-ish but nowhere near as bad.
What ive noticed is if objects are relatively close its sharp but doing wide landscape scenes with things in the distance over there they're badly blurred. Focusing on the side doesnt help.
From a camera point of view it looks to me like the lens isnt parallel to the sensor/focal plane which is relatively common with cheap DSLR lenses as well. If thats the case its optical and not software fixable.
Im reluctant to report it as a fault as a lot/most people ive spoken to seem to have it when you look closely enough.
Im not overly bothered with work arounds - its a great drone with a cheap low end camera so that type of thing is to be expected. If you know what it can and cant do you can plan accordingly.
What ive noticed is if objects are relatively close its sharp but doing wide landscape scenes with things in the distance over there they're badly blurred. Focusing on the side doesnt help.
From a camera point of view it looks to me like the lens isnt parallel to the sensor/focal plane which is relatively common with cheap DSLR lenses as well. If thats the case its optical and not software fixable.
Im reluctant to report it as a fault as a lot/most people ive spoken to seem to have it when you look closely enough.
Im not overly bothered with work arounds - its a great drone with a cheap low end camera so that type of thing is to be expected. If you know what it can and cant do you can plan accordingly.
Thanks,
Looks like ill be accepting the side blur.
My workaround will be to crop out the sides by down scaling in premiere to 1080 as that all i output,..
Looks like ill be accepting the side blur.
My workaround will be to crop out the sides by down scaling in premiere to 1080 as that all i output,..
You can't compare a magic to a dslr. The magic sensor is tiny compared to even a crop sensor dslr.
The raw files need to be processed to get the best out of them. Your high up so you are probably dealing with haze as well hence why the images look washed out. Filters can help with that as well as post processing.
The band, I'm going to guess are shadows caused by the props. Look at the lens flare you can see the sun is front left.
The raw files need to be processed to get the best out of them. Your high up so you are probably dealing with haze as well hence why the images look washed out. Filters can help with that as well as post processing.
The band, I'm going to guess are shadows caused by the props. Look at the lens flare you can see the sun is front left.
The threads evolved into still and vid as the same issues affect both, jello, flare, quality, shutter ( although shutter for different reasons)
I know lightroom/PS/ post. That's not the issue. It's the camera output
Some say the lines are prop flare. Some say jello. Fixes are shot direction and lenses- solved.
I get the sensor is small. It just seems there's a large difference between the camera quality from unit to unit. While the most common flaws seem to be side focus issues and yawning in vid. (Countless posts on blurred sides of mavics)
I think this is due to dji rushing the release date. Thing is if we want a drone that can output really good images then it's a p4p or inspire but the form of these doesn't suit me.
Fingers crossed the MP2 cam is up graded as the unit is premium as is minus the camera
CLwilliams
Member
FWIW DJi introduces auto noise reduction in the camera when your style sharpness is set to 0. The result is that sometimes it over compensates and makes patches of mush in random areas that make it feel blurry. To fix this all you need to do is set the sharpness to +1. This effectively turns off the in-camera noise reduction. The trade off is that you'll probably get a bit more edging, but its easier to fix that in post than to add detail. Hope that helps.
yea, im on to that one..
whats the best method for reducing sharpness in post?
i have this plugin for reducing noise:
Neat Video - best noise reduction for digital video
Maybe unrelated ... but in my DJI go 4 app, the ev +/- readout stopped updating as I change the exposure and shutter speed...haven't updated the app in forever on purpose, and the mavic is still on .400
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