Best filter for sunrise

[PilotStudy]

I am looking to capture a bright sunrise, what is best filter to use ?
Thanks

..my neighbor told me drone flying is like the (new) old mans way of using a magnetic finder lol

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

No filter required.

If you used an ND filter, you would reduce the light ... for everything, from the sun to the shadowed foreground. The filter will not magically reduce on the light from only the bright sun. So all you're going to do with an ND filter is get the same exposure, but unnecessarily slow down your shutter speed (which could lead to an unsharp image).

A polarizer is called for if you have reflections you want to control, either to reveal what is under the reflections (behind the glass or water surface), or want to get more color saturation from the object (wet objects reflecting the sky). But otherwise, a polarizer is not called for in a sunrise situation either.

If you want to capture the sunrise, the fiery clouds, the bright golden light on the foreground objects, that's a function of basic photography. In this case, for a single image, expose for just under the brightest parts.

The Mavic has over-exposure indicators on the screen in the form of zebras. Either adjust your manual exposure to the point where the zebras go away, or use an automatic mode and adjust the exposure compensation dial down until the zebras go away.

Edit: some folk will compromise with having a bit of over-exposure right in the center of the sun, because it is bright after all, it being mostly white, in the image would not be totally out of place if it was blown out a little. I'm not one of those people, but it could help you expose other parts of the image better in a single exposure.

For the best sunrise / sunset shot, you might want to read up on the AEB setting. It will take a series of shots (3 or 5) which you can put together in HDR software (like Photomerge in Photoshop). This way, you will have a properly exposed sun, plus some properly exposed foreground (which would be too dark in a single exposure), blended together for the best image.

Chris

PS: if you had a graduated ND filter, that might be appropriate. I don't own any, if they exist for drones, so I don't know how practical they are for use up in the air.

Edit2: I completely spaced on video. My post was still photo centric. vindibona1 to the rescue below

 

[PilotStudy]

Right on man

 

[vindibona1]

It depends on what "capture" means. Are you taking a photograph or filming? Do you want or need to have cinematic blur? With a Mavic 2 Pro TECHNICALLY, withe the M2P's variable aperture and wide ranging shutter speeds you shouldn't need any filter at all, but might find one helpful for certain applications.

If wanting to film cinematic footage, ideally we want the shutter speed to be set at twice the frame (FPS) rate. That would probably mean setting the shutter around 1/50th sec @iso 100. So, it would probably be advisable to have a set of ND filters and/or ND/CPL filters, up to ND64. One of the great advantages that sets the Mavic 2 Pro above all the other DJI Mavics is the variable aperture. While the sharpest aperture settings are between f2.8 and f5.6 with the sweet spot at f4, it provides some flexibility and adjustability with selecting and adjusting to ND filters. Below I have attached a guide that might help you.

Edit: I think my favorite filters are graduated ND filters wher ethe top of the filter is darker than the bottom. This will darken areas at the top of the screen, usually horizon/sky and less so of the lower areas so the exposure is better balanced. Polarpro had made the graduated filters but I believe no longer do so. I got luck and found a set for sale in Japan. And though they were expensive I'm happy I bought them. Right now I'm not aware of anyone making the graduated filters. Someone really should. Skyreat? Freewell? PGYTech? Are you listening?

 

[vindibona1]

Edit: some folk will compromise with having a bit of over-exposure right in the center of the sun, because it is bright after all, it being mostly white, in the image would not be totally out of place if it was blown out a little. I'm not one of those people, but it could help you expose other parts of the image better in a single exposure.

I agree with everything you've said. To clarify why some folks might choose the overexposure in the center of the sun is because the sun as a whole has no detail and only appears as color- or lack thereof. It's easy to add color density to an image/item that has no detail to begin with. But I agree, I would prefer to have a slightly under-exposed image than a slightly over-exposed image because it's easier to resurrect under-exposed shadows, while there is no hope of any recovery of over-exposed bright areas.

 

[JanetM]

It depends on what "capture" means. Are you taking a photograph or filming? Do you want or need to have cinematic blur? With a Mavic 2 Pro TECHNICALLY, withe the M2P's variable aperture and wide ranging shutter speeds you shouldn't need any filter at all, but might find one helpful for certain applications.

If wanting to film cinematic footage, ideally we want the shutter speed to be set at twice the frame (FPS) rate. That would probably mean setting the shutter around 1/50th sec @iso 100. So, it would probably be advisable to have a set of ND filters and/or ND/CPL filters, up to ND64. One of the great advantages that sets the Mavic 2 Pro above all the other DJI Mavics is the variable aperture. While the sharpest aperture settings are between f2.8 and f5.6 with the sweet spot at f4, it provides some flexibility and adjustability with selecting and adjusting to ND filters. Below I have attached a guide that might help you.

Edit: I think my favorite filters are graduated ND filters wher ethe top of the filter is darker than the bottom. This will darken areas at the top of the screen, usually horizon/sky and less so of the lower areas so the exposure is better balanced. Polarpro had made the graduated filters but I believe no longer do so. I got luck and found a set for sale in Japan. And though they were expensive I'm happy I bought them. Right now I'm not aware of anyone making the graduated filters. Someone really should. Skyreat? Freewell? PGYTech? Are you listening?

View attachment 119055

 

[PilotStudy]

I understand how the filters reduce light and provide definition of an image/video in lighting situations, but I have read (somewhere) it is the only way to get an accurate frame-rate with a mavic2 pro...
Is this true and can you explain what that means? Or did I perhaps read it wrong? Thanks!

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

I understand how the filters reduce light and provide definition of an image/video in lighting situations, but I have read (somewhere) it is the only way to get an accurate frame-rate with a mavic2 pro...
Is this true and can you explain what that means? Or did I perhaps read it wrong? Thanks!

Read post #4 above.

Edit: it's not "accurate", it is getting a specific frame-rate for a certain cinema look. Other frame rates are entirely valid, but look different. Some folk prefer the realistic look of higher frame rates and that's fine, their choice. One is not more "accurate" than the other.

 

[PilotStudy]

Read post #4 above.

Ok I think I am understanding...the reduced light effects the frame rate of the video? Sorry new to this but sort of grasping it

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

Ok I think I am understanding...the reduced light effects the frame rate of the video? Sorry new to this but sort of grasping it

YOU set the frame rate in settings. Reduced light doesn't change that directly.

The cinematic look is that frame-rate matched up to a certain shutter speed (see post 4 for details).

Reducing the light will allow you to use a lower shutter speed, when the light would otherwise cause you to have too high a shutter speed to get that cinematic look.

Chris

 

[PilotStudy]

YOU set the frame rate in settings. Reduced light doesn't change that directly.

The cinematic look is that frame-rate matched up to a certain shutter speed (see post 4 for details).

Reducing the light will allow you to use a lower shutter speed, when the light would otherwise cause you to have too high a shutter speed to get that cinematic look.

Chris

Right on, will definitely check it out in the field! Thanks for fast replies!

 

[Cymru]

I am looking to capture a bright sunrise, what is best filter to use ?
Thanks

..my neighbor told me drone flying is like the (new) old mans way of using a magnetic finder lol

For stills or video?

If its for stills the best filter is no filter at all.
If video its going to depend massively on cloud cover, latitude, time of year and so on. Likely ND32 or similar.

 

[DanMan32]

Another reason one might want a slower shutter speed closer to the frame rate: the props can also act as a shutter to ambient light. Under certain lighting conditions, the strobed light coming through the props can cause horizontal banding across the screen when the prop RPM is close to the shutter speed.
It's not as much of a problem with the Mavic as it is with the Phantom though, because of the location of the camera and props.

 

[vindibona1]

I understand how the filters reduce light and provide definition of an image/video in lighting situations, but I have read (somewhere) it is the only way to get an accurate frame-rate with a mavic2 pro...
Is this true and can you explain what that means? Or did I perhaps read it wrong? Thanks!

Mavic 2 Pro has some distinct advantages in terms of settings. It has a variable aperture from f2.8 to f11. I don't think any other DJI drones currently in the Mavic series have that. So there is some flexibility there. Hold that thought.

When you set up your video, you select resolution and frame rate. Let's assume we're shooting in 4k. You will choose either a frame rate of 24fps, 25fps (mostly for Europe) and 30fps. To get what folks call a "cinematic look" with natural looking motion blur, ideally you want the shutter speed to be 2x the frame rate. Put another way, if you set your frame rate at 30fps, you want your shutter speed at 1/60sec. Then there is ISO. Rule of thumb is set it at ISO 100 and leave it there unless it's too dark to get a proper exposure at any setting. So let's assume we're glued to ISO 100. That leaves aperture. With the M2P you can set the ISO and shutter, and then guess at where you think the combination aperture/ND filter ought to be. Once in the air you have the luxury of adjusting the aperture if you didn't guess right on the ground. With other drones with a fixed aperture, you will either have to land the drone and change filters, or sacrifice the 2x shutter rule to avoid doing that.

I hope this helps anser your question.

 

[PilotStudy]

Mavic 2 Pro has some distinct advantages in terms of settings. It has a variable aperture from f2.8 to f11. I don't think any other DJI drones currently in the Mavic series have that. So there is some flexibility there. Hold that thought.

When you set up your video, you select resolution and frame rate. Let's assume we're shooting in 4k. You will choose either a frame rate of 24fps, 25fps (mostly for Europe) and 30fps. To get what folks call a "cinematic look" with natural looking motion blur, ideally you want the shutter speed to be 2x the frame rate. Put another way, if you set your frame rate at 30fps, you want your shutter speed at 1/60sec. Then there is ISO. Rule of thumb is set it at ISO 100 and leave it there unless it's too dark to get a proper exposure at any setting. So let's assume we're glued to ISO 100. That leaves aperture. With the M2P you can set the ISO and shutter, and then guess at where you think the combination aperture/ND filter ought to be. Once in the air you have the luxury of adjusting the aperture if you didn't guess right on the ground. With other drones with a fixed aperture, you will either have to land the drone and change filters, or sacrifice the 2x shutter rule to avoid doing that.

I hope this helps anser your question.

It does very every much thank you!! I can’t wait to test this in the field, what I am looking to do is film stock video of a sunrise..film (ok it’s not filming, it’s digitally gathering lol) about 18-20 mins of a sunrise, and then speed it up to make a time- lapse stock vid In PP, also color it (color correct/enhance) with colorista 4 plugin which does absolute wonders! (also sell about a min of vid right when sun rises). I am curious, in your opinion do you think 30fps looks more cinematic or 24fps. I know 24fps mimics older 35mm film...I think it’s just trial and see! Thanks for replies and can’t wait to try it out

sort of a side question but since on the idea I wanted to ask your opinion!

 

[Cymru]

I generally class f/2.8 to f/5.6 as acceptable on he Mavic 2. From there on diffraction murders the sharpness due to the small sensor.
Still means i have 2 stops of aperture to play with which is usually enough.

ISO wise 100 is best, 200 acceptable and i find 400 acceptable for photos but unacceptable for video.

 

[vindibona1]

It does very every much thank you!! I can’t wait to test this in the field, what I am looking to do is film stock video of a sunrise..film (ok it’s not filming, it’s digitally gathering lol) about 18-20 mins of a sunrise, and then speed it up to make a time- lapse stock vid In PP, also color it (color correct/enhance) with colorista 4 plugin which does absolute wonders! (also sell about a min of vid right when sun rises). I am curious, in your opinion do you think 30fps looks more cinematic or 24fps. I know 24fps mimics older 35mm film...I think it’s just trial and see! Thanks for replies and can’t wait to try it out

sort of a side question but since on the idea I wanted to ask your opinion!

In general it is my impression that film makers lean toward 24fps. Not a hard and fast rule by any means. The key is to try to sync your fps and shutter in that 2:1 ratio. HOWEVER, if you want a sped-up video, you're talking about hyperlapse. There is a hyperlapse function on the M2P that should be able to do what you want, however I've never used it (yet) so is currently above my pay grade. The person who is expert on such things is @Dale D. Hopefully he'll pick up on this and answer that part of your question.

 

[Cymru]

If you're doing a hyperlapse the way you handle the frame rate:shutter ratio is different. Its the ratio between the interval time needed for the same calculation.
So 1 second exposure and 2 second interval between shots etc.

 

[PilotStudy]

If you're doing a hyperlapse the way you handle the frame rate:shutter ratio is different. Its the ratio between the interval time needed for the same calculation.
So 1 second exposure and 2 second interval between shots etc.

I wouldn’t use hyperlape function just yet, I like to speed up in premiere pro to different percents until am fully happy with the final look after coloring in colorista 4

I would like to use hyperlape for sure, especially when moving very slowly, excited to try that function in the future!
Also have many questions about how to preset the camera/gimble ...have a long learning curve that is for sure.

 

[MKurr]

It depends on what "capture" means. Are you taking a photograph or filming? Do you want or need to have cinematic blur? With a Mavic 2 Pro TECHNICALLY, withe the M2P's variable aperture and wide ranging shutter speeds you shouldn't need any filter at all, but might find one helpful for certain applications.

If wanting to film cinematic footage, ideally we want the shutter speed to be set at twice the frame (FPS) rate. That would probably mean setting the shutter around 1/50th sec @iso 100. So, it would probably be advisable to have a set of ND filters and/or ND/CPL filters, up to ND64. One of the great advantages that sets the Mavic 2 Pro above all the other DJI Mavics is the variable aperture. While the sharpest aperture settings are between f2.8 and f5.6 with the sweet spot at f4, it provides some flexibility and adjustability with selecting and adjusting to ND filters. Below I have attached a guide that might help you.

Edit: I think my favorite filters are graduated ND filters wher ethe top of the filter is darker than the bottom. This will darken areas at the top of the screen, usually horizon/sky and less so of the lower areas so the exposure is better balanced. Polarpro had made the graduated filters but I believe no longer do so. I got luck and found a set for sale in Japan. And though they were expensive I'm happy I bought them. Right now I'm not aware of anyone making the graduated filters. Someone really should. Skyreat? Freewell? PGYTech? Are you listening?

View attachment 119055

Thanks for the chart!