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Bought my first DJI drone (MPP 1), came a bit cracked

fenea

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I've wanted to step up my game buying my first real drone (Started with JJRC X11, very good for learning, image quality sucks and no gimbal)

I've bought an used - acceptable MPP 1 (with fly more) from Amazon, it came in a very good shape, like new, only one battery had 2 cycle, I guess it flew only once.
Then I've noticed why it was marked as acceptable, it had a crack on the back and on the rear right shaft, the arm can be pulled a bit.
91957042_232672344519243_8361138823693860864_n.jpg

As I saw that these components are pretty cheap (middle body, rear right shaft) I've decided to keep the drone.

I took it to a flight and the arm went a bit off and it got some new scratches on it and also I could see some vibration.Like in the picture. 91748308_247751549919114_2018208598429007872_n.jpg
And the new scratches: 91806312_558979178060165_8762244565336850432_n.jpg

Now, the questions.

I've grounded it for now, (well I don't have a choice) but is it safe to fly it like this?

I've bought a MP 1 right rear shaft as it looks the same and I saw multiple post about the drones being basically the same, but can somebody confirm specifically that this will work? Beside the different color?

Did anybody had a similar accident are there any other parts that need to be changed?

What accident can cause such damage? the drone looks pretty sturdy and it doesn't have any scratches, I'm not sure how it cracked.
 

FoxhallGH

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Welcome to the forum ... Looking at your sequence of photos, and comparing with my own Platinum, it looks to me like this drone has gone backwards into a solid obstacle. That impact has put forward-direction pressure on the [starboard] rear fold-out arm. Since that arm is designed to swing back and out, it's not been able to flex to absorb the crash, and all that impact shock has gone into the body of the Mavic at the base of the leg. There are a series of 'breaks' on the right-rear corner of the body-shell that are of concern, and it looks like a body-shell replacement is required to fix everything properly. It sounds like you have purchased a new arm - but that does not appear to be the broken bit!
You are correct in assuming that body parts of the MP and MPP are the same except for the colour - however, the electronics are different (more advanced motor controller in the MPP).
 

fenea

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Welcome to the forum ... Looking at your sequence of photos, and comparing with my own Platinum, it looks to me like this drone has gone backwards into a solid obstacle. That impact has put forward-direction pressure on the [starboard] rear fold-out arm. Since that arm is designed to swing back and out, it's not been able to flex to absorb the crash, and all that impact shock has gone into the body of the Mavic at the base of the leg. There are a series of 'breaks' on the right-rear corner of the body-shell that are of concern, and it looks like a body-shell replacement is required to fix everything properly. It sounds like you have purchased a new arm - but that does not appear to be the broken bit!
You are correct in assuming that body parts of the MP and MPP are the same except for the colour - however, the electronics are different (more advanced motor controller in the MPP).
Thank you, really helpful.

I didn't bought a new arm, that's a bit expensive while the motor and arm seem fine,
Only that tiny piece between body and arm which encapsulates the shaft, that little wing and that broken ring between the body and the arm, something like this:
1585842459849.png
And the middle body.

Also I guess the JJRC X11 would behave better in this situation, with the back arms closing horizontally as the ones in front. I'm not sure why DJI took this approach.
 
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FoxhallGH

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I think that the problem you have is that the items you highlight in your post #3 are actually quite strong and robust. It's where these parts mount into the main body shell that - I believe - has taken the most damage. The hinge units are quite tough! Replacing these still leaves the main shell damaged.
If I were faced with this, I'd look at some youtube vid's about disassembling the Mavic Pro, and take it all apart for a good look before I purchased any parts. You also need to identify the role that these parts play ... for example, the cracked ring in your photo 2 could simply be a spacer and may be able to be glued back together ???
It doesn't matter what drone you operate, there is always going to be a type of crash that it comes off worst in!
 

brett8883

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I've wanted to step up my game buying my first real drone (Started with JJRC X11, very good for learning, image quality sucks and no gimbal)

I've bought an used - acceptable MPP 1 (with fly more) from Amazon, it came in a very good shape, like new, only one battery had 2 cycle, I guess it flew only once.
Then I've noticed why it was marked as acceptable, it had a crack on the back and on the rear right shaft, the arm can be pulled a bit.
View attachment 97766

As I saw that these components are pretty cheap (middle body, rear right shaft) I've decided to keep the drone.

I took it to a flight and the arm went a bit off and it got some new scratches on it and also I could see some vibration.Like in the picture. View attachment 97764
And the new scratches: View attachment 97765

Now, the questions.

I've grounded it for now, (well I don't have a choice) but is it safe to fly it like this?

I've bought a MP 1 right rear shaft as it looks the same and I saw multiple post about the drones being basically the same, but can somebody confirm specifically that this will work? Beside the different color?

Did anybody had a similar accident are there any other parts that need to be changed?

What accident can cause such damage? the drone looks pretty sturdy and it doesn't have any scratches, I'm not sure how it cracked.
Is the leg shown here the same color as the rest of the body? 91957042_232672344519243_8361138823693860864_n.jpg
In this picture it kinda looks like the leg is a different color, more like the MP1. If it is a different color it looks like the leg was replaced with a MP1 leg. It could just be the light in the photo however
 

ChipDjipro

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First thing I would’ve done box it up and send it back to the buyer.
 
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fenea

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First thing I would’ve done box it up and send it back to the buyer.
I've got a pretty good deal, and considering that the batteries, all accessories and the controller are brand new while the parts middle body and the shaft (even the whole arm) aren't that expensive (15$, 8$ shaft or 30$ for arm). The only bad part is that I'll have to solder the cables, but I'll learn more about my drone.


the cracked ring in your photo 2 could simply be a spacer and may be able to be glued back together ???
that spacer is also part of the shaft.
I've watched some videos, could find only for the whole arm (but saw pictures from people that did only the shaft). Now I'm not sure about compatibility.

Now I didn't opened mine because I don't have the tools yet, (they're coming with the parts)

Is the leg shown here the same color as the rest of the body?
In this picture it kinda looks like the leg is a different color, more like the MP1. If it is a different color it looks like the leg was replaced with a MP1 leg. It could just be the light in the photo however
Nah, it is just the light.
 

Slade

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The cracks are UNACCEPTABLE 🤬. Return it and get a refund. Good luck.
 

fenea

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The cracks are UNACCEPTABLE 🤬. Return it and get a refund. Good luck.
I contacted them and requesed a replacement or repair, and they proposed return + full refund or 100$ partial refund for repairs, I took the partial refund.
I have also looked at videos for replacing the body for the repair (I kind of like this kind stuff). Due to frequent accidents I was expecting the MPP to be a little more modularized, but I think I can make it, now waiting for the parts.
 

Platinum 4 ever

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I contacted them and requesed a replacement or repair, and they proposed return + full refund or 100$ partial refund for repairs, I took the partial refund.
I have also looked at videos for replacing the body for the repair (I kind of like this kind stuff). Due to frequent accidents I was expecting the MPP to be a little more modularized, but I think I can make it, now waiting for the parts.
Let us know how it goes and best of luck with your new to you platinum
 

fenea

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Let us know how it goes and best of luck with your new to you platinum
Couldn't wait for parts, flew it again, flies fine.

One small thing tho, it didn't return to same spot it took off, had a drift of about 2 meters I think, didn't let it land that's why I'm not sure about how much it drifted. Is it expected for MP or MPP to do so?

I don't have enough information but I have a feeling that the JJRC F11 was better at finding the home spot when RTH.
 
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Platinum 4 ever

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Couldn't wait for parts, flew it again, flies fine.

One small thing tho, it didn't return to same spot it took off, had a drift of about 2 meters I think, didn't let it land that's why I'm not sure about how much it drifted. Is it expected for MP or MPP to do so?

I don't have enough information but I have a feeling that the JJRC F11 was better at finding the home spot when RTH.
Mine has been pretty spot on. If I let it hover in place for about thirty seconds after liftoff
 

FoxhallGH

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One small thing tho, it didn't return to same spot it took off, had a drift of about 2 meters I think, didn't let it land that's why I'm not sure about how much it drifted. Is it expected for MP or MPP to do so?
The secret of an accurate RTH, is an accurate take off with the MPP.
If you make sure that you get all indications as OK from Go4 before you start the motors, and then use the auto-take-off button, you'll see that you have a tick-box for 'Precision Landing'. Select that box before you use the slider to lift-off. The MPP will rise to about 1.5 metres and then hover. Without touching any other controls, just use the up-stick to gently raise the Mavic to around 10 metres (30 ft). Then fly off and do your thing ...
If you do the above, the MPP will have a good GPS satellite lock on its position, and the ascent will allow it to use its downward-facing cameras to record the view of the ground at and around the take-off point. If you take off from a [high-contrast] fold-out landing pad, that also helps the downward cameras. Doing the above, you'll get within a few inches of the take-off spot when you do an automated RTH.
 
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