Could anyone give a brief dummys guide to ND filters?

[SrMi]

Neto, this is great, thank you.
It is the exact my-head-is-already-full-with-too-much-info dummies guide I personally needed.
I saved this text on my phone so the next time I'm in the field... I will remember to check it.

PolarPro let me custom order a single filter (ND16/PL) which I'm bringing on a snow trip next week. I figure if I don't mind mucking with filters and the results are significantly better, I'll buy a set.

Once you are filming, is the iPhone screen a good representation of how the shot is going? If things are looking dark on the screen are you generally able to bring up the shadows in post?
Or, if it looks dark on my screen should I land and take the thing off? (I know, I know... switch to auto and look at the ISI & frame rate. BUT, I'll likely be in cold weather and will want to make quicker decisions and limit my screwing around time...)

The best ways to judge the manual exposure is with histogram and/or zebra stripes (both are options that can be turned on). Details how to use histogram and zebra stripes can be found on web.

 

[AyeYo]

Once you are filming, is the iPhone screen a good representation of how the shot is going?

Absolutely not. You need to watch and trust the histogram over what you're seeing on the screen.

 

[KiterTodd]

Thanks. I currently do use the strips (for overexposed areas) but haven't turned on the histogram.

Okay, don't trust the screen image. check.

 

[cobra46]

Or just shoot exposure brackets. I AEB every still shot I take with this thing and you'd never know the dynamic range sucked.

When you AEB are all the shots taken at once and the exposure values added electronically to the same sensor capture or is it like an HDR shot on a cell phone where you must keep the phone still for two shots to be taken?

Do you have any sample shots? I would love to see what the Mavic is capable of in competent hands.

 

[Egika]

AEB takes 3 or 5 pics in a row. Maybe takes 0.3-0.5s. You need to select the frame you like later or merge the exposures in a tool like SNS-HDR. For this it makes sense to have the drone steady while taking the multiple shots.
Here's an example of an AEB HDR I took in Japan:

And here is one where I did a bracketing to then only choose one frame that had the exposure I wanted:

 

[SrMi]

Thanks. I currently do use the strips (for overexposed areas) but haven't turned on the histogram.

Okay, don't trust the screen image. check.

Another possibility is to watch the EV value in manual mode: if it says 0.0 then you are getting similar exposure to what the automatic exposure would choose (which may or may not be the correct exposure).

 

[SoapyGolem]

So always try to be at 1/50 shutter speed? And what does the scroll wheel on the right side do? EV I think it's called, it just makes my image look darker and bright what setting do you want this at?

 

[Egika]

So always try to be at 1/50 shutter speed? And what does the scroll wheel on the right side do? EV I think it's called, it just makes my image look darker and bright what setting do you want this at?

Always try to be at a shutter speed that matches 2x frame rate. For 24fps that would be 1/50s. For 60fps 1/125s accordingly.
EV is the exposure compensation. With automatic exposure it adjusts the shutter speed or the ISO. With fixed shutter speed it adjusts the ISO.
Higher ISO settings introduce more noise to the picture.

Please read photography basics for best results.

 

[SoapyGolem]

Always try to be at a shutter speed that matches 2x frame rate. For 24fps that would be 1/50s. For 60fps 1/125s accordingly.
EV is the exposure compensation. With automatic exposure it adjusts the shutter speed or the ISO. With fixed shutter speed it adjusts the ISO.
Higher ISO settings introduce more noise to the picture.

Please read photography basics for best results.

Thanks just trying find what will be the best nd filter for every situation

 

[Neto]

Neto, this is great, thank you.
It is the exact my-head-is-already-full-with-too-much-info dummies guide I personally needed.
I saved this text on my phone so the next time I'm in the field... I will remember to check it.

PolarPro let me custom order a single filter (ND16/PL) which I'm bringing on a snow trip next week. I figure if I don't mind mucking with filters and the results are significantly better, I'll buy a set.

Once you are filming, is the iPhone screen a good representation of how the shot is going? If things are looking dark on the screen are you generally able to bring up the shadows in post?
Or, if it looks dark on my screen should I land and take the thing off? (I know, I know... switch to auto and look at the ISI & frame rate. BUT, I'll likely be in cold weather and will want to make quicker decisions and limit my screwing around time...)

Your best bet is the histogram.
Just make sure the graphic is mostly in the middle.


Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots

 

[halley]

Your best bet is the histogram.
Just make sure the graphic is mostly in the middle.

This is generally good advice. However, the important thing is to avoid smooshing exposure against either end, because that indicates lost data-- black shadows or blown out highlights. The proper histogram can vary with the subject matter; a snow scene should have a right-heavy histogram if you can do so without blowing the highlights, while an evening city skyline should favor the left end of the histogram with only the brightest lights straying to the right.

 

[AyeYo]

When you AEB are all the shots taken at once and the exposure values added electronically to the same sensor capture or is it like an HDR shot on a cell phone where you must keep the phone still for two shots to be taken?

Do you have any sample shots? I would love to see what the Mavic is capable of in competent hands.

Egika gave good examples. You end up with 3 or 5 separate pictures, it is not like the HDR on a cell phone. It does have an HDR mode, but it's absolutely horrible. Unfortunately this is my work computer so I don't have any pics on it, but my instagram is adventure_uav if you want more example shots there. 95% of the shots are merged bracketed shots.

 

[Vogina Pilot]

Thanks just trying find what will be the best nd filter for every situation

Take a course in photography

 

[KiterTodd]

Take a course in photography

True. The best photographers certainly have the most knowledge. No argument there. My friends who share beautifully composed images are experts in my eyes and do a lot of careful setup and post processing...

That said, our devices are getting smarter, we have more of them to learn, and figuring out the best in-camera modes that would help the 90% of us who are not photography experts, is always good. The Pros will always get the best results, but we can get something good enough for facebook likes.

 

[Vogina Pilot]

at the end of the day...trust your eyes

 

[finalfantasyfans]

Always try to be at a shutter speed that matches 2x frame rate. For 24fps that would be 1/50s. For 60fps 1/125s accordingly.
EV is the exposure compensation. With automatic exposure it adjusts the shutter speed or the ISO. With fixed shutter speed it adjusts the ISO.
Higher ISO settings introduce more noise to the picture.

Please read photography basics for best results.

I don't think it can adjust the ISO with the scroll wheel. Please share how you can adjust the ISO with fixed shutter speed with Mavic.

 

[AyeYo]

I don't think it can adjust the ISO with the scroll wheel. Please share how you can adjust the ISO with fixed shutter speed with Mavic.

In the camera settings menu of the app. You cannot adjust with the scroll wheel.

 

[Egika]

I don't think it can adjust the ISO with the scroll wheel. Please share how you can adjust the ISO with fixed shutter speed with Mavic.

If you fixed the shutter speed using manual exposure settings, any change in exposure value has to be through ISO. The third parameter (aperture) is fixed on the Mavic.
So what do you think you adjust using the scroll wheel?

 

[finalfantasyfans]

If you fixed the shutter speed using manual exposure settings, any change in exposure value has to be through ISO. The third parameter (aperture) is fixed on the Mavic.
So what do you think you adjust using the scroll wheel?

There is no shutter speed priority setting in Mavic.


Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots

 

[AyeYo]

Can anyone confirm what exactly is adjusted to change the exposures when using AEB in manual mode? I would hope it's the shutter speed, but there's reports on the P4P forum that it is, in fact, ISO that's being used - which is a horrible programming oversight.