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Could anyone give a brief dummys guide to ND filters?

Can anyone confirm what exactly is adjusted to change the exposures when using AEB in manual mode? I would hope it's the shutter speed, but there's reports on the P4P forum that it is, in fact, ISO that's being used - which is a horrible programming oversight.
The fixed parameters of AEB depends upon exposure time. In normal daylight light conditions, the ISO is fixed while the exposure time is varied. But for night flying or low light condition, the exposure time is fixed while ISO is varied.
 
You know this 100%?

I supposed I could check it myself by simply looking at the metadata on the photos...
 
I've read this thread completely and I'm starting to understand the basic theory. If I understand correctly I should set the ISO to 100, then set the shutter speed to double the "frame rate". Check the EV value and I'm looking for a value of 0.0.
Use ND filter to get the value down as close to 0.0
Use histogram trying to get the majority of mountain peeks in the center.
 
I've watched a mountain of YouTube videos trying to determine which are the best ND filters to buy.
I've seen some videos that say the gimbal won't initialize because some of the filters are to heavy.
Can any recomend a good brand?
 
I've watched a mountain of YouTube videos trying to determine which are the best ND filters to buy.
I've seen some videos that say the gimbal won't initialize because some of the filters are to heavy.
Can any recomend a good brand?
Both Taco RC and PolarPro Cinema Vivid work fine for me. Older versions of PolarPro had issue, but those you cannot buy new any longer.
 
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I've read this thread completely and I'm starting to understand the basic theory. If I understand correctly I should set the ISO to 100, then set the shutter speed to double the "frame rate". Check the EV value and I'm looking for a value of 0.0.
Use ND filter to get the value down as close to 0.0
Use histogram trying to get the majority of mountain peeks in the center.

Often you have to choose between EV being 0.0 or having good histogram. IMO, good histogram is more important as automatic exposure can be fooled. If you shoot white surface (e.g. snow), the histogram should be more to the right and if you shoot dark surface, the histogram should be more to the left.
 
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What is the error you get if the filter is not compatible at startup?

I put on a new Polar Pro filter yesterday for the first time after a morning of flying. (ND16/PL)
I flew around without the filter with no problems. (snow, sunny day).
I landed the Mavic, powered it off, put on the filter and got an error when I powered back up. Something like, "motor overload. try removing gimbal clamp."
So, I powered off the Mavic and checked that I had it pressed all the way on. Which I didn't, so I pressed it firmer until it seems snug. Started it up..
...got the same error.
So I powered it off, took off the filter, and the Mavic came up and flew fine.
 
What is the error you get if the filter is not compatible at startup?

I put on a new Polar Pro filter yesterday for the first time after a morning of flying. (ND16/PL)
I flew around without the filter with no problems. (snow, sunny day).
I landed the Mavic, powered it off, put on the filter and got an error when I powered back up. Something like, "motor overload. try removing gimbal clamp."
So, I powered off the Mavic and checked that I had it pressed all the way on. Which I didn't, so I pressed it firmer until it seems snug. Started it up..
...got the same error.
So I powered it off, took off the filter, and the Mavic came up and flew fine.
I can only speak from information that i have gathered from YouTube and other members. Some aftermarket ND filters may be too heavy for the Mavics gimbal. The gimbal will sence this and give you an error. I was concerned myself before I bought my ND filters and bought filters that other members recomended as having no problems. If you look at the ND filters that DJI sells for the Mavic they are extremely small and lightweight. They look considerably smaller and lighter that the aftermarket products. I myself ordered the Taco brand and will try them this weekend. Electric motors are rated to draw a certain amount of amperage. In this case I would assume that the Mavics gimbal motors are having to work to hard with the extra weight and the processor/gimbal controller is sensing an over amperage and sending out the fault message. If I remember correctly the Mavic ND filters weigh in at .7 grams. I'll have to check where I saw that number but it would be interesting to see the difference in weight with aftermarket filters.
 
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I can only speak from information that i have gathered from YouTube and other members. Some aftermarket ND filters may be too heavy for the Mavics gimbal. The gimbal will sence this and give you an error. I was concerned myself before I bought my ND filters and bought filters that other members recomended as having no problems. If you look at the ND filters that DJI sells for the Mavic they are extremely small and lightweight. They look considerably smaller and lighter that the aftermarket products. I myself ordered the Taco brand and will try them this weekend. Electric motors are rated to draw a certain amount of amperage. In this case I would assume that the Mavics gimbal motors are having to work to hard with the extra weight and the processor/gimbal controller is sensing an over amperage and sending out the fault message. If I remember correctly the Mavic ND filters weigh in at .7 grams. I'll have to check where I saw that number but it would be interesting to see the difference in weight with aftermarket filters.

Weights:
DJI: .3-.4g
TACO .7g
PolarPro 1.3g
 
Weights:
DJI: .3-.4g
TACO .7g
PolarPro 1.3g
Received my Taco filters today and did a video shoot/unboxing/weight/insalation on the Mavic and a Gimbal calibration. Still need to edit it and will post on youtube this weekend.
The weight of the Taco was exactly .8 Grams. Installing and removing was easy and the full gimbal calibration worked perfect.
 
Received my Taco filters today and did a video shoot/unboxing/weight/insalation on the Mavic and a Gimbal calibration. Still need to edit it and will post on youtube this weekend.
The weight of the Taco was exactly .8 Grams. Installing and removing was easy and the full gimbal calibration worked perfect.

Just curious where are you located and when did you order?

Still waiting on mines from Monday and their literally the next state over =/
 
Easy guide for me:

  • Set camera to manual
  • Set iso 100
  • Set shutter speed 50 or 60
  • Check EV if its possitive or negative
  • If negative use a lower filter number
  • If possitive use a higher filter number

The idea is to have the EV as close to 0 as possible.
  • You could adjust your ISO from 100 up to 400 if required to get EV as close as 0 while on flight.




Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots
 
Last edited:
Just to clarify.

ND filters are used for aerial vids only (unless you want to capture soft motion-like waterfalls stills).
ND filters can ruin shots - over blur, darkness, and loss in detail.
There is a misconception that ND filters are a must have. This incorrect. The mavic can shoot beautiful and crisp without them. So why the fuss with ND filters? Aerial videoographers are trying to achieve what is called 24fps cinematic videos, giving it the motion blur effect like 'Days of our Lives' soap operas. In order to achieve this cinematic motion blur look, the general rule of thumb is shutter speed to be roughly double the fps.

Rough guide for the f2.2 stop.
ND16 for cloudy
ND32 clear sunny days
ND64 bright sunny days in snow.
Sunsets are tricky and best left to auto with fixed EV (stops it from brightening and darkening when you pan).
 
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Easy guide for me:

Set camera to manual
Set iso 100
Set shutter speed 50 or 60
Check EV if its possitive or negative
If negative use a higher filter number
If possitive use a lower filter

The idea is to have the Ev as close to 0 as possible

Sent from my iPhone using MavicPilots
I think you mean the other way.

If the EV is negative, it needs more light so you want to use lower filter number(ND2 instead of ND4)
If the EV is positive, it needs to block out light so you want to use higher filter number(ND4 instead of ND2)
 
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I
Just curious where are you located and when did you order?

Still waiting on mines from Monday and their literally the next state over =/
Just curious where are you located and when did you order?

Still waiting on mines from Monday and their literally the next state over =/
ordered feb11th Amazon and delivered yesterday feb 15th to NJ
 
What is the error you get if the filter is not compatible at startup?

I put on a new Polar Pro filter yesterday for the first time after a morning of flying. (ND16/PL)
I flew around without the filter with no problems. (snow, sunny day).
I landed the Mavic, powered it off, put on the filter and got an error when I powered back up. Something like, "motor overload. try removing gimbal clamp."
So, I powered off the Mavic and checked that I had it pressed all the way on. Which I didn't, so I pressed it firmer until it seems snug. Started it up..
...got the same error.
So I powered it off, took off the filter, and the Mavic came up and flew fine.

My guess you got the polar pro filters? If you did you have to turn on your drone first then put on the filter.... the taco rc filters or DJI filters don't have this problem
 
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