I have tests of same subject for my previous and current mavic in post#
683 and #
421 and #
742
I'm an engineer by schooling, but am pragmatic in my approach here.
I'm not trying to re-engineer DJI's drones (which or top of the line), or bankrupt DJI with a suit. Been flying DJI drones since the P1, so I know what to expect from them. Just want to enjoy flying, taking pictures, and doing this with ease. Frankly, I'm just glad technology in this area has taken off!
As such, I've come up with a pretty good approach to avoid watercolor. I can produce it if I want, but could also do this on the P3P (though much harder).
I've been using the following with no issues with watercolor and adequate motion blur.
* Color = Art, D-Cinelike (for ease of shot matching and grading only)
* Contrast = 0 (You won't get more DR on this drone. in fact, lower contrast only exaserbates potential for watercolor due to codec)
* Saturation = 0 (color profiles are suitable for me to grade)
* Shutter between 120-240
* EV 0 to +2 stops (higher if less light or difficult to get 120 shutter)
* ND8 filter during mid day sunny flights
* sharpness 0 (mainly), but occasionally -1 or +1. Depends on lighting and closeness to subject. If low light, use 0 or +1. If high altitude and far from subjects, use -1/0 (depending on lighting). If close to subjects use +1/0 (depending on lighting).
* I don't shoot at night, so no perspective on settings for that use case