Exposure Options

[Citizen Flier]

I'm a new M2Pro Pilot, but an experienced stills shooter, less so w/video. If the recommended exposure mode is manual, how do you deal with drastic light fluctuations? I was following a runner along a trail at dusk (video), and exposure was spot on for the areas that still had direct light. But this was a canyon, and the runner passed through substantial shadow areas. I couldn't even see her on the screen. I am not referring to momentary fluctuations, more like a dark shadow area where a moving subject maybe be in shade for as long as 5-10+ seconds etc.
I understand that Auto Exposure can cause wild fluctuations. But what is the workflow for getting decent exposure when the subject passes through shaded areas? Thumbwheel ISO adjustment? Just correct in post?

Is there not an enhanced Auto Exposure setting that can slow the rate of exposure change? Or should I use the thumbwheel (in manual mode)? Obviously Manual Exp is a slam dunk in open grassy areas or over water, snow etc. But as dawn/dusk typically offer the best light, there will be substantial areas of dark shade. Is using manual exp, is the thumbwheel the best option for correction? And if so should it be set to increase ISO?

Thanks

 

[Amarand]

I was watching a Mavic Pro training video on Lynda.com and he talked about this very thing: locking exposure during a scene so you won't have auto-exposure making things weird. Like, pulsing in and out. It's a very common thing for videography. You have to watch for high-dynamic-range situations, where you know things are fluctuating, and just shoot manual for the best of both worlds. Auto exposure is the worst for getting good, smooth shots. (At least that's what I've been hearing.)

 

[Amarand]

I was watching a Mavic Pro training video on Lynda.com and he talked about this very thing: locking exposure during a scene so you won't have auto-exposure making things weird. Like, pulsing in and out. It's a very common thing for videography. You have to watch for high-dynamic-range situations, where you know things are fluctuating, and just shoot manual for the best of both worlds. Auto exposure is the worst for getting good, smooth shots. (At least that's what I've been hearing.)

Having said that, I think if you really want to make the shot look professional, do the run multiple times, and see what the optimum settings are. Most camera operators have rehearsal, lighting, etc. And when you're outside, I'm sure you'll need to do that too.

Also, remember that, while long-continuous shots are awesome, you also have the ability to edit. If you edit properly, it'll be great, and people expect edits, especially if they're timed properly. Just do multiple takes, and do multi-camera editing between the takes to get the final cut you want.

I hope that helps?

 

[Not A Speck Of Cereal]

Having said that, I think if you really want to make the shot look professional, do the run multiple times, and see what the optimum settings are.

Yes, If there's no reason for it to be continuous, shoot the shaded parts with a different exposure, edit together in post.

You can also ride the settings during shooting if you have to, with one of the controller controls changing exposure compensation or aperture. If you shoot continuously for 2 minutes and there's 4 seconds of not-good-looking frames because you were changing exposure at that point, just edit those seconds out.

But there are other reasons to shoot separately (non-continuous). Shots from different angles will be more interesting. If shot and edited with care, it can seem to the viewer to be a single run.

Chris