I'd like to shoot about 3,000 feet of beachfront and stitch it together, but want to avoid the curve of typical panos. Is there any way I can stitch together multiple shots taken along a straight line, rather than pivoting? I'd like to set up a couple hundred feet off and above the beach and move laterally, taking adequate photos to overlap similar to a typical pano. Can I do this? Will LrC support it? What will support it?
How to make a pano that isn't a pano?
- Thread starter CadrePilot
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2018
- Messages
- 8,476
- Reactions
- 13,733
- Age
- 55
Yes Light Room will suppport it .
I would do a single horizontal flight across the beach to get these shots , and it should work out nicely.
Phantomrain.org
Gear to fly your drone in the Rain.
I would do a single horizontal flight across the beach to get these shots , and it should work out nicely.
Phantomrain.org
Gear to fly your drone in the Rain.
Thanks.
What's the correct term for it, rather than "a pano that isn't a pano"?
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2018
- Messages
- 8,476
- Reactions
- 13,733
- Age
- 55
its commonly called a Manual Pano
We use it in the storms when the wind is wild , this way we can nail down the best Pictures for the Pano as the wind dies down.
Phantomrain.org
Gear to fly your drone in the Rain.
We use it in the storms when the wind is wild , this way we can nail down the best Pictures for the Pano as the wind dies down.
Phantomrain.org
Gear to fly your drone in the Rain.
I thought a manual pano was when you don't let the drone capture the images, but rotate the drone and shoot the frames manually.
Like this? What curve?
Use a tele lens rather than a wideangle and you can do it simply from one position and rotating the camera.
I wonder how far out over the Gulf I'd need to be to do this on 3,000' of beachfront.
Like this? What curve?
Use a tele lens rather than a wideangle and you can do it simply from one position and rotating the camera.
I’d be flying the done out far enough to get the vertical (if the drone can alter its camera to portrait orientation do that) framing I want and then fly the drone sideways in a straight line along the beachfront taking overlapping shots. Don’t forget to fix focus and exposure. Then manually assemble the pano image in your chosen software.
3000' would be much too far for VLOS and without a tele lens that would allow you to get out and shoot back...maybe you could start in the middle...and fly to the left and shoot a series and then fly to the right and shoot a series. I think it would be doable one way or another. I've certainly shot may panos that were much wider than 3000 feet but I use the Mav3 Pro tell lens and might be several miles back from them...
HoozierDroneDaddy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2017
- Messages
- 977
- Reactions
- 677
- Age
- 72
Not 3,000 feet, but I have taken multiple shots over a 1/4 mile stretch, then used stacking in lightroom to put them all together. It also provides automatic alignment in the process.
AMann
Well-Known Member
That’s a nice panoramic shot but isn’t a linear panoramic like he’s mentioning. You can tell as you only see the right side of buildings on the left side of the image, the fronts of them in the center, and the left sides on the right side of the image. A true linear panoramic, being able to be taken from up close of each building or object, has much more detail and only shows the fronts straight on across the entire image and is used for things like architectural photography as there is no distortion of right angles in the building between both ends of the image.
Like this? What curve?
Use a tele lens rather than a wideangle and you can do it simply from one position and rotating the camera.
OP: I’ve made linear ones by walking along a line of people, and also by multiply shooting as a train moved slowly past me, from a car driving slowly, and even with a macro lens of a island rock in a stream to get really good details and an incredibly large image of it rather than shooting the whole thing from further back. They are easy to make using most stitching programs, and even in pano mode on a iPhone by walking while taking it. Use a medium wide angle shot and stay close to your buildings for better detail, take lots of pictures and be sure to get at least 40% overlap between all of them.
Last edited:
AMann
Well-Known Member
Microsoft’s ICE is a really good (Windows only) program and works very well for making very high resolution and very detailed images out of many closeup shots. And free!!
AMann
Well-Known Member
Of course the details in this gigapixel pano don’t show up on this screenshot, but the original was made with ICE from about 60 full-resolution shots. It consisted of three rows of about 20 shots each with more than 50% overlap at full resolution on a DSLR. All the other stitching programs I tried couldn’t handle the size and couldn’t stitch it without mismatching the needles and adding wierd overlap errors after I lowered the resolution for them. The image is huge and could be printed as a mural at 300dpi.
Oh, I have to add that the air was dead still that day, otherwise I would never have been able to do this.
Oh, I have to add that the air was dead still that day, otherwise I would never have been able to do this.
Last edited:
AMann
Well-Known Member
Oh, also don’t use auto exposure and do use RAW mode - lock down the exposure by first setting it manually with a test shot and do all of them at that setting- that way all the shots are evenly exposed and color balanced the same. Best thing to do is set the exposure on a neutral gray object in the same lighting situation as your image. It can even be something close to you like the side of a gray wall.
Similar threads
